• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Electric Radiator Fan Upgrade. Some Advice 93 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4x4


Angry Possum

No Fat Chicks, Truck Will Scrape
Supporting Member
Law Enforcement
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
594
Reaction score
471
Points
63
Location
Staten Island NY
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger XLT SC
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
N/A
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235 75 15
My credo
Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.
I'm deciding on removing my stock Radiator Fan, and installing an electric radiator fan or a double fan kit. Question is, Is it worth doing this Mod for better cooling and HP gain etc? And are there any good fan manufacturers/company's that you may have experience with or recommend? My Ranger runs a little hotter than normal, with the AC on in NY traffic, but only in the summer months even after I flushed it and changed fan clutch. If you have experience with this, please elaborate.
 
Last edited:


rumblecloud

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
1,106
Points
113
Location
48022
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1-1/2 inch front leveling
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
31/10.50/15
My credo
What's the worst that could happen?

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Reverse the heater hoses at the firewall, do this every 2 years, engine will run cooler and heater core will last longer

When you start cold engine you should hear the fan noise for a few seconds, fan clutch is cold locked
You should hear that same noise when driving in slower traffic on hot days, means the fan clutch is locked, pulling more air thru radiator and more air circulation in engine bay
If not then could be fan clutch is not working as designed or center of radiator is clogged up and not warming up the clutch

If you don't have a fan shroud then you will get hotter coolant temp when in slow traffic on hot days


E-fan is the only thing that can increase MPG AND horse power, ain't much but ain't 0 either

If it seems to only run warmer with AC on then you could add a condenser e-fan to start with, usually a simpler install, and easy to find at wrecking yards, they are fairly generic
Just need a relay that is activated by AC compressor 12v wire, so simple wiring, no temp sensor to deal with
 

Kira

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
100
Reaction score
56
Points
28
Location
Champlain + Hudson Valleys
Vehicle Year
2005
Make / Model
Ford Ranger FX4
Transmission
Automatic
How do you break / release the hose clamps on the firewall? I don't want to just shove a screwdriver into it and twist as that'll bend the heater core's pipes.
Is there a tool for that? Just plain cutters?
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Pull back the clamps
Use a pair of pliers to twist the hose to break it loose, do it at different points along the length of the heater core pipe, you will feel it moving don't need to squeeze it too tight, just enough to grip the hose

Hoses are a bit like the Chinese Finger puzzle(trap) in that if you pull on them to remove from the pipe they get TIGHTER, lol
So get them to turn on the pipe a bit and then use the screwdriver on the end of the hose to slide them off

Spark plug boots have the same issue, the harder you pull the tigher they get, lol
 
Last edited:

Kira

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
100
Reaction score
56
Points
28
Location
Champlain + Hudson Valleys
Vehicle Year
2005
Make / Model
Ford Ranger FX4
Transmission
Automatic
Sorry to be dopey (birth defect I've learned to live with) but isn't there a shoulder or barb ?
If the clamps just pull back, what keeps 'em in place day in and day out?
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,952
Reaction score
2,472
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
First of all, listen to RonD

Besides that I will share my experience. I switched to electric then switched back. Didn't wanna risk the bulletproof stock setup. The electric kept giving me little issues, maybe due to my incompetence, but it just seemed fickle and less efficient. Yes it did gain free up power losing the clutch fan though. I miss that part. I may switch back in the future.

I have the same ranger as you and live in socal (its hot).
 

Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
1,811
Points
113
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Transmission
Automatic
It's a small but nice improvement. Maybe mileage and horsepower is better but not by a lot. it would certainly regulate temperature better.
 

Angry Possum

No Fat Chicks, Truck Will Scrape
Supporting Member
Law Enforcement
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
594
Reaction score
471
Points
63
Location
Staten Island NY
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger XLT SC
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
N/A
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235 75 15
My credo
Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you.
@RonD The Radiator is new and the clutch fan is new. I did a full flush about 7 times in one day, (Yeah OCD) when I bought it last year. Only thing I didn't change was the TStat.
PS I'll try the heater core hose switch today. Thanks
 
Last edited:

Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
1,811
Points
113
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Transmission
Automatic
And, yes. That flush is important. I did it twice. Why not? This is the perfect time.
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,952
Reaction score
2,472
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
You might just need to burp the system. This was boning me until I did a good proper burping. A lot of air came out and cooling system works tip top now.
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,291
Reaction score
8,296
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Engine cooling systems have two sides, engine side, radiator side, they are separated by a thermostat
Heater and its hoses are on the engine side

The heater hose that comes out on or near the thermostat housing is a high point for the engine side of the cooling system
Its the best hose to remove at the heater core port to let air out while refilling
But pulling either hose at the firewall will let out the air, because heater core has a failsafe passage at the top between the two ports, so air can easily cross over to either port and be cleared while refilling

The closed thermostat won't let air out when refilling, which is why air gets trapped in the engine side
(Some engines use a thermostat on LOWER radiator hose, these usually don't run into "trapped air" issues)

Some thermostats have a "jiggle valve", yes thats the name, its a loose metal pin that sits in a hole in the thermostat plate
Jiggle valve can let air out, slowly, as you refill the system, the loose metal pin is there to keep debris from clogging this hole
i.e. if you have a coolant leak in the engine side, it will leak coolant but can also suck in air during cool down
The jiggle valve will allow that air to get to top of radiator prior to warm up and thermostat opening
If thermostat is mounted vertically then jiggle valve should be at 12:00 position to be most effective
 
Last edited:

Broosedamoose

Active Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
362
Reaction score
115
Points
43
Location
South East Massachusettes
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31 x 10.5
My credo
Coming in second just makes you the first loser!
I went to the junk yard and pulled a fan out of a Taurus. It's plenty sufficient to cool the engine. At first I had it hooked up to a t-stat and the A/C compressor with two relays. However, the relays kept failing on me! I even bought heavy duty, waterproof relays good for 120 Amps but even those failed. So, I just recently ditched the t-stat and hooked it up to run whenever the engine is running. I also moved the relay inside under the dash. This is the relay I'm using now and it has held up for quite a while now: Relay
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top