EEC relay electrical issue

[codeJunkie]

Appeciate the suggestions!

To clarify, I was using the test light only for Pin 1 (ground), all other tests were done by probing with a DMM. Both the constant hot and switched ignition pins are showing 12v (something like 11.96, to be exact) and 14v with the engine running. The EEC connector pigtail is brand new but I did also confirm all connections are snug. The pigtail wires were soldered into the harness wires, so I know those connections are secure.

I haven't tested resistance on EEC relay ground pin, so I will certainly do that next. If I don't find anything there, I'll jump ground directly to the battery negative, then jump switched ignition directly to positive. This all in addition to combing through the ignition switch circuit more closely.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Welcome....

I believe that is all you can do at this point... nothing left really.

Just for future reference for all... report back whatever you do find and/or do to correct this less then common problem.

Good Luck...

 

[Uncle Gump]

Just to clear up something I just thought of...

When you jump in battery voltage to the switched ignition side of the relay... I would back out the switched ignition wire from the connector body. Not certain it would cause an issue but it might. Better to take that wire out to ensure you don't put Battery positive into the ignition circuit... for sure if the ignition is switched to off. Might cause some weird stuff to happen.

 

[codeJunkie]

Will do! I was going to push out pins 1 and 2 from the relay connector and replace those with connectors soldered to my test jumpers so that I completely bypass the harness ground and ignition switch power. Sound like a plan?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Perfect...

Again... good luck.

 

[codeJunkie]

Alright, so I removed the connector for pin 1 and replaced it with a jumper directly to battery ground, still no voltage coming from the relay. Then I removed the connector for pin 2 and jumped directly to battery positive and still no voltage.

I removed the connector for pin 3 and I'm getting 0v from the relay. I have confirmed 12v is coming from pins 2 and 4 with ignition on with each test I have done. Pin 1 has 0 ohm resistance in all tests.

Am I getting bad relays...am I receiving the correct relays when I am ordering them? I'm looking at the ignition circuit now but if I'm getting 12v to the switched ignition circuit on the relay and its holding 12v, I have to assume that is working.

Attached picture of the 2 replacement relays I bought.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Take the relay out of the connector and use jumper wires to bench test it. You know how it works... power up the two positive inputs and ground the ground pin. Relay should click... voltmeter on the fourth pin should have 12V

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Are you using a wiring diagram or just winging it? The relay has a diagram on the side of the internals. The eec relay is the same as the fuel pump relay there are four terminals two are the coil and the other two are the load. Do you have a good ground and battery voltage goin to the coil of the eec relay with the key on?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Ckeck the black/light green stripe wire fo a good ground it provides ground for the oxygen senser and the computer pins 40 and 50. That is the small black wire going to battery neg. my guess is is either not connected or corroded under the insulation or a corroded connector?

 

[bobbywalter]

get these.



https://www.wirebarn.com/30-Amp-Automotive-Relay-with-6-Socket-Pigtail-Plastic-Tab_p_193.html





wire them in. those old relays suk.

 

[codeJunkie]

I have been using the wiring diagrams from this site to do all of my diagnosis. That is how I found which pins on the EEC connector are grounds, as well as the wiring for the EEC relay connector. The small ground wire from body to battery negative has already been replaced.

I bench tested both relays and both are bad; the solenoid does not pull the circuit closed when applying 12v across the switched power circuit.

I stuck the fuel pump relay in the EEC relay connector and I get 12v out of pin 3. So I'm either getting the wrong part for replacement relays or both are just bad. Not impossible, I suppose. I guess I just put too much faith in new replacement electrical components.

I might just take bobbywalter's suggestion.

 

[codeJunkie]

Well, there ya go...

I had some 30A 5 pin relays sitting around from a project on my other car. I wired one up in place of the EEC relay and all is good.

Appreciate everyone's help.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Well if anything has come from this... you won't be fooled by a bad relay again.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The computer needs a good ground to operate the controls. Disconnect the ecm and check all three pins on the connector for a good ground. The fuel pump relay and injector solenoids have power with key on and the ecm switches the ground to activated the coils. I recommend you confirm all the pins on the ecm connector have good ground with the computer disconnected!

 

[bobbywalter]

i switch everything to the generic relays because they are available everywhere.


for the price with pigtails on the link i put up its hard to not use them.