EEC-IV OBD1 codes and general ford nonsence


Pix3L8

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another week and another post on the forum, buckle up here we go.
Alright since my last post I got the truck running and "timed" 10 degrees adv "spout unplugged", and frankly it runs like s**t. plugged spout back in, truck off, restarted it. crossed fingers etc etc.
I checked for vacuum leaks, possibly loose injectors or anything else that could possibly be letting too much air in the engine, with no luck. It starts and run but runs too high "1000-1800 rpm" and runs rough. It will idle down after a minute or so and surge up and down and start to knock when the revs get real low "under 500". I'm at my wits end here, I just rebuilt this engine and it has become my worst decision of 2019 to date. I would like to just get another used engine and transplant it but in CT there aren't many b2s or rangers around. so here's my questions, the truck seems to run steady until it hiccups and I can hear the timing advance try to compensate which causes the surging, could this be a bad ECM? I faulty sensor of some sort? the truck spit the codes 10 18 77 and 21 at me.
18. loss of tach signal/IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded. (this one bothers me)
77. operator error during wide open throttle response (I didn't touch the gas pedal while testing)
21. coolant temp sensor out of range (I unplugged wire)
10. system ok or codes will repeat I think

the 18 code has me duped, I know the spout connector works, if unplugged while running the engine idles down to 10 advance and runs like a steaming pile of..well
My research brought back possible issues with the connector on the ign coil or a ground somewhere. My theory was that possibly the rough running and intermittent misfires could be due to a coil wiring issue (coil is brand new) having trouble being consistent OORRR it could be the spout circuit coming and going causing the truck to drop down to 10 adv when it shouldn't with the connector plugged in. when I move the truck in and out of my shop it sounds very rough and like its misfiring rapidly under load. ive asked before but could someone link me to the proper steps to set a distributer after it has been removed and engine has been turned over? (my last thought is that I still have the timed messed up somehow).

thoughts, theories, advice, links to good mental help specialists all welcome
 


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PetroleumJunkie412

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Year and engine?
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
rebuild? define that.


does it have a ohmed out fault free harness?

....fresh rail and injectors or flow matched injectors?

fresh distributor?

rebuilding an engine without getting new injectors gets done more often then not.



hmmm....make sure the heater circuit for the 02 has power tothe heater circuit and the o2 harness is grounded.

make sure you did not damage the harness say...pinching between trans and block or when swapping the motor.
 

Pix3L8

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rebuild? define that.


does it have a ohmed out fault free harness?

....fresh rail and injectors or flow matched injectors?

fresh distributor?

rebuilding an engine without getting new injectors gets done more often then not.



hmmm....make sure the heater circuit for the 02 has power tothe heater circuit and the o2 harness is grounded.

make sure you did not damage the harness say...pinching between trans and block or when swapping the motor.
the rebuild consisted of taking the engine down to the bare block, checking main and connecting rod bearings replacing them, as well as injectors, FP regulator, distributer, all engine gaskets, plugs, wires, coil, injector wiring harness, and distributer wiring harness. as far as the harness is concerned I have only checked a few points so an ohmed harness could be a possibility. the injectors are brand new as well as the regulator. however I could not find a fuel rail anywhere so I had to re use the old one
 

Pix3L8

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I have a few more questions to ask you guys, my apologies for posting so much but besides the Haynes manual and YouTube you guys are my only other resource, I'm some what of a 1 man operation here. when I got the truck someone had put a 87 engine in it and still had the 90 computer plugged in, the truck ran fine but in my infinite wisdom I changed the computer and cant remember which one was the original (I have a few ecms). each ecm has a code on it for example e2c1 or something like that, I'm going to go to the pick and pull and grab another but I want to make sure I get the CORRECT one, I have suspicions that mine may be giving some of the issues I'm dealing with. the truck had an a4ld transmission that I swapped for a fm145 manual (I have a post somewhere that details this whole swap) and just unplugged the trans wiring harness and bypassed the neutral safety switch to get it working, the transfer case is a BG 1350 I think which I swapped for the garbage electronic shift on the fly case. what I don't know is the ecm code that would work with the truck. 87 2.9, 85 fm145 tranny 90 body with ac and cruise control (both disconnected). every thing worked flawlessly before I went and ye hawed the engine out to do a rebuild and now its issue after issue, forum post after forum post. note, both ecms that I have do make the truck run but one makes it idles better than the other. im wondering if the ecm is looking for signals from the truck that just are not there given that it may be the wrong ecm. also note that this truck has been all butchered up before I even got it with an older engine, mismatched ecm etc etc and some shall we say "creative" wiring repairs. i would love to buy a completely new and correct wiring harness with a new engine but college isn't cheap so im working with that ive got here. on top of getting the correct ecm is there a guide to checking my harness with a multimeter steps possibly?
 

RonD

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The first 4 digits in a Ford Part number is the year, model and department responsible
The 2nd set of numbers is the part number, not specific to any vehicle
The 3rd set is the revision, and engine size/transmission(manual or auto), in the case of an engine computer

And on the PCM label will be an added stamped number, like DA1, this is the software code in the case of a computer, also denotes manual or auto

In the case of computers/PCMs, 12A650 will be the 2nd set on ALL PCMs even in 2019 models

1st set
Years
E0 = 1980
E2 = 1982
E9 = 1989

F0= 1990
F1 = 1991
ect.....
It changes in 1999

So not to complicated for the year of the PCM in the 1980's and 90's

7 = Ranger, BII, and Explorer
F = electrical department

So E87F-12A650 would be a 1988 ranger PCM

The 3rd set is the one that counts, and there is NO CROSS REFERENCE that Ford ever released, lol

Have a look here: http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page17.html

If you can match the stamped code you should be OK

And just a heads up, these older PCMs have 3 capacitors inside that will leak after 20+ years, this causes odd issues when they do, but they can be replaced

Article here on doing that: http://support.moates.net/capacitor-repair-ford-a9l-ecm/

under $5 cost
 

Pix3L8

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The first 4 digits in a Ford Part number is the year, model and department responsible
The 2nd set of numbers is the part number, not specific to any vehicle
The 3rd set is the revision, and engine size/transmission(manual or auto), in the case of an engine computer

And on the PCM label will be an added stamped number, like DA1, this is the software code in the case of a computer, also denotes manual or auto

In the case of computers/PCMs, 12A650 will be the 2nd set on ALL PCMs even in 2019 models

1st set
Years
E0 = 1980
E2 = 1982
E9 = 1989

F0= 1990
F1 = 1991
ect.....
It changes in 1999

So not to complicated for the year of the PCM in the 1980's and 90's

7 = Ranger, BII, and Explorer
F = electrical department

So E87F-12A650 would be a 1988 ranger PCM

The 3rd set is the one that counts, and there is NO CROSS REFERENCE that Ford ever released, lol

Have a look here: http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page17.html

If you can match the stamped code you should be OK

And just a heads up, these older PCMs have 3 capacitors inside that will leak after 20+ years, this causes odd issues when they do, but they can be replaced

Article here on doing that: http://support.moates.net/capacitor-repair-ford-a9l-ecm/

under $5 cost
Thank you for the info! when I get home I’ll check and see exactly what ecms I have. Any advice on testing my harness for possible issues?
 
Last edited:

RonD

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You can test individual wires, look here: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

These are the "general" pin outs for the 1994 and earlier PCMs

In the picture at the top you can see the 3 Blue capacitors that leak, causing problems
 

Pix3L8

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You can test individual wires, look here: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

These are the "general" pin outs for the 1994 and earlier PCMs

In the picture at the top you can see the 3 Blue capacitors that leak, causing problems
If im checking for continuity, KOEO and just poke a probe into the back of the ECM plug with the module attached?
 

RonD

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I would unplug the PCM from connector when checking for broken wires, i.e. continuity
 


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