ECM question

[Dalebob69]

Hello all,
I have a 1983 2.8 and it’s not sparking. I’ve replaced fuel filters, plugs, wires, air filter , batt is 12.3v Truck was running one day in the driveway then died. Failed to start since then (does not sputter just cranks). I’ve also shot ether in the carb with no luck. Can’t see a spark on any of the plugs when pulled and cranked. Dizzy has been addressed month prior so it’s diled in.

It’s been converted to duraspark (or similar, sorry new to this word) and I’ve tested just about everything so all signs are pointing to a faulty ECM. Prior owner used a trailer connector so I’m just doing the same to see if it works before connecting more correctly. I saw a video of a ECM where the person explained the color of the ECM tab matters EX: red = California compliant Blue= most common Green= high altitude. Will a different color “tab” ecm work? See photos below. (Old is blue , new is green)

 

[bobbywalter]

they can all work.

but all these days. tend to be junk.

i would tend to do the gm conversion for ignition module.


or i would talk to these guys across the pond.

Ford Cologne V6 Distributors - Powerspark Ignition

Ford Cologne V6 Distributors | Bosch Type Distributor for Your V6 Cologne Engine | Simple to Fit, Plug & Play |Order Online from Powerspark Ignition

simonbbc.com

 

[Dalebob69]

they can all work.

but all these days. tend to be junk.

i would tend to do the gm conversion for ignition module.


or i would talk to these guys across the pond.

Ford Cologne V6 Distributors - Powerspark Ignition

Ford Cologne V6 Distributors | Bosch Type Distributor for Your V6 Cologne Engine | Simple to Fit, Plug & Play |Order Online from Powerspark Ignition

simonbbc.com

Im about to say screw it and go back to points for ease of use

 

[Dalebob69]

Also found that info about the colored tabs, not sure how accurate it is, but it’s something. I’ll try wiring in the new green tab one today . I ordered a blue tab one on Amazon so god knows the quality will be trash.

 

[bobbywalter]

for sure blue if you can get it.

otherwise....this is what i referred to earlier.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/convert-a-ford-or-chrysler-ignition-to-gm-hei/

 

[Dalebob69]

UPDATE

Connected the wires from the 4 prong to the new green tab ECM and still no spark. Was really hoping it would at least attempt to turn over but nothing.

I have also replaced the ignition coil prior, and it was almost the same symptoms so I re replaced the coil and still no spark.

The purpose of this truck is to be a yard worker, at this point with all the ignition headaches and guess work from prior owners and me being new to this rhelm of info, would I be better off just going back to the old points system? Would I need a new(old) dizzy? Or should I just stick it out and see if the new blue tab ECM works?

 

[bobbywalter]

you confirmed the rotor is turning?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

UPDATE

Connected the wires from the 4 prong to the new green tab ECM and still no spark. Was really hoping it would at least attempt to turn over but nothing.

I have also replaced the ignition coil prior, and it was almost the same symptoms so I re replaced the coil and still no spark.

The purpose of this truck is to be a yard worker, at this point with all the ignition headaches and guess work from prior owners and me being new to this rhelm of info, would I be better off just going back to the old points system? Would I need a new(old) dizzy? Or should I just stick it out and see if the new blue tab ECM works?

I would fix whats there rather then start over.

Seems like the colors depended more on year then alitude or emission...but i could be wrong on that. There was the early duraspark system then duraspark II if i remember correctly. So you MAY need the blue one.

Seems like 74-76ish was one color, 77-80 or 81, then like 81-84 or something. But dont quote me...and i have no idea whats compatable with what.

But i have always heard you need the right color.

That being said im much more familiar with the V8's

Pull the distributor and see if you can find a part number...it may give a clue as to what year the dist is.

Also...hows the wiring?

EDIT-

From wikipedia...

Need to use a blue one. We were both partially correct on what grommet colors mean.

 

[19Walt93]

The part you're showing is the Duraspark module, it's basically an amplifier that turns the weak pulse from the stator into 12 volts for the coil, it's not a computer. If you crank it and get a single spark when you release the key, the distributor stator is likely at fault. The stator is the magnetic pickup in the distributor. If you actually need a new module, Summit had Motorcraft modules in stock about 4 years ago, I'd check with them.
By the way, no Ford ever had an ECM, in the EEC IV years it was called a Processor, with EEc V/OBD II the part is a PCM- powertrain control module.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The part you're showing is the Duraspark module, it's basically an amplifier that turns the weak pulse from the stator into 12 volts for the coil, it's not a computer. If you crank it and get a single spark when you release the key, the distributor stator is likely at fault. The stator is the magnetic pickup in the distributor. If you actually need a new module, Summit had Motorcraft modules in stock about 4 years ago, I'd check with them.
By the way, no Ford ever had an ECM, in the EEC IV years it was called a Processor, with EEc V/OBD II the part is a PCM- powertrain control module.

Hi, how would I test the stator (pickup coil?) to see if its working? This is on my 1977 Pinto with 2.8.

 

[19Walt93]

Hi, how would I test the stator (pickup coil?) to see if its working? This is on my 1977 Pinto with 2.8.

There are 3 wires coming out of it, one is a ground. Check the resistance between the other 2, if it shows an open circuit it's junk. I've always used one spark when the key is released to diag a stator. Another thing to try is slightly twisting the spade terminals in the plug to tighten up the connection before just replacing the stator. If you can, find a Motorcraft stator.

 

[dbentesr]

IF you continue to have issues with the Ford Ignition systems, you can always look into a MSD 6A (6201, non rev limiter box or a 6425, rev limiter box) with a MSD 8874 Pigtail connector and if you choose to buy the coil it is MSD 8227. One end of the pigtail plugs into the coil and the other into your wiring from the unplugged. The four wires are color coordinated to plug into your MSD 6A box and give you computer (EEC-IV) free spark control.

Just a thought.

I have this system in my 1974 MG MGB race car that I run the 2.8l Cologne V6 and 5 speed manual transmission out of a 1984 Ford Ranger. I actually took the entire wire harness from the whole truck and used it to replace the crappy British wiring. The 2.8l engines were used in MGB conversions in the 1970s-1980s. You can leave the rest of your smog systems intact of need be or you can block them off. I recommend leaving them plugged in electrically but blocking off all air piping or removing it completely.