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E-fan Swap Question 1993 3.0 4x4 Splash

Coop7

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Just a quick question, is there any reason nobody seems interested in using the stock coolant fan switch bung in the lower intake manifold for the aftermarket fan switch location?

All the swaps I've seen published use an inline coolant hose add in, or an in radiator probe(which I would personally prefer to avoid) and I've been unable to find if removing the original sensor and replacing with the aftermarket one wired into the e-fan would affect anything else, but it looks like it's just a temp sensitive ground sending switch that, unless I am mistaken and I very well could be, should only be used to activate the fan clutch for the mechanical fan? Wouldn't think it would be pertinent to any other sensing info in the ecu, etc?

It's the lower single wire switch pictured better in the second pic. First pic is just to provide frame of reference.

WhatsApp Image 2022-05-12 at 3.21.21 PM.jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2022-05-12 at 3.21.12 PM.jpeg
1993 3.0 4x4 Splash.
 


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dvdswan

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Welcome to the site.

It might be for the dash gauge and the other on the block/head might be for the PCM or vice versa. I wouldn't want to use one of those, just add another switch.

Curious as to why you what to change to an electric fan?
 
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The two wire switch is for the ECM/PCM it will not run right with out it. it will not know how to adjust for timing. Since the PCM changes fuel ratios for when an engine is warm vs cold all done off coolant temp and O2 sensor.

The single wire sensor is for your gauge. it will run just fine with out this, but your gauge wont work....
 

Coop7

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The two wire switch is for the ECM/PCM it will not run right with out it. it will not know how to adjust for timing. Since the PCM changes fuel ratios for when an engine is warm vs cold all done off coolant temp and O2 sensor.

The single wire sensor is for your gauge. it will run just fine with out this, but your gauge wont work....
Ahhhh. I see. That makes sense then. I've had trouble looking up specific wiring for the truck, perhaps just from me being bad at searching, not so much from lack of availability. Lol

The dual wire I figured was a bit more important, but I made the false assumption that the single wire was just the on/off switch for the fan assy. Looks like I'll be ordering more parts as a temp gauge will be pretty important to make sure my fan doesn't die on me due to silly installation errors.
 

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Fan clutch is not electric, it has a bi-metal spring on the front, next to radiator, as the radiator gets hot the spring expands and closes off valves inside the clutch, which causes the fan blades to spin closer to water pump RPMs increasing its cooling ability


Yes, single wire temp sender is for dash board temp gauge
2 wire is the ECT sensor just for computer and Choke mode

An e-fan uses a temp switch, open or closed, based on its temp, and there are dual temp switches for high and low speeds as well
Temp switch can be mounted on an added Heater hose bung(or Rad hose bung), or using a temp sensor mounted between radiator fins

e-fan can be better in that they can be turned off for higher water crossings
Also less drag on the engine if setup correctly

Either fan is there to pull air thru the radiator to cool the coolant as it circulates, and this is only needed when stopped or driving slowly
At higher speed air is being forced thru radiator faster than any fan can pull it thru so e-fan can shut off, mechanical fan just keeps using horse power regardless, although it isn't all that much since air flow thru rad(at speed) is helping to spin it, lol

e-fans were required on transverse mounted engines for the obvious reason, but they do have their benefits and drawbacks, same as direct drive or clutch drive mechanical fans
Users choice
 

Coop7

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Welcome to the site.

It might be for the dash gauge and the other on the block/head might be for the PCM or vice versa. I wouldn't want to use one of those, just add another switch.

Curious as to why you what to change to an electric fan?
Yeah, looks like I'll be ordering an in line setup. Wish I would have thought of that when I replaced my radiator hoses a few months back. Lol

PMCS. Haha Replacing/repairing anyway, might as well "upgrade". And yes, I realize there are a variety of opinions regarding whether an e-fan is actually an "upgrade". I think there are very good reasons to stick with the mechanical system, but I'm partial to the electrical system. Spent a good deal of time trying to figure out how to get one mounted in my truck. The Volvo swap isn't as viable anymore due to lack of availability in my area. Or so it seems. Could just be another instance of me not being good at looking. All in all, when I get it done I'll try to remember to post pics.
 

Coop7

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Fan clutch is not electric, it has a bi-metal spring on the front, next to radiator, as the radiator gets hot the spring expands and closes off valves inside the clutch, which causes the fan blades to spin closer to water pump RPMs increasing its cooling ability


Yes, single wire temp sender is for dash board temp gauge
2 wire is the ECT sensor just for computer and Choke mode

An e-fan uses a temp switch, open or closed, based on its temp, and there are dual temp switches for high and low speeds as well

e-fan can be better in that they can be turned off for higher water crossings
Also less drag on the engine if setup correctly

Either fan is there to pull air thru the radiator to cool the coolant as it circulates, and this is only needed when stopped or driving slowly
At higher speed air is being forced thru radiator faster than any fan can pull it thru so e-fan can shut off, mechanical fan just keeps using horse power regardless, although it isn't all that much since air flow thru rad(at speed) is helping to spin it, lol

e-fans were required on transverse mounted engines for the obvious reason, but they do have their benefits and drawbacks, same as direct drive or clutch drive mechanical fans
Users choice
Makes sense. Similar to the thermostat in a house, then? (As far as the bimetal having different heat expansion rates cause actuation, not exactly like a house thermostat, but same idea?)

Thanks for the reply and info!

I opted for the dual temp switch used in the pinned Volvo swap, to use with a dual speed fan sourced from Summit, I think? I don't remember honestly, I've looked at so many sites and fans... Haha
 

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FYI, a properly operating fan clutch will work better than an electric fan if you're towing/hauling loads.
 

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Just tidying up... moved this to the 3.0L forum.

The next thing is... which hose to put the sender adaptor in. You can use upper or lower... they even have them for the heater hose.

I have one for an aftermarket gauge and I chose the lower hose. Not because it's anymore accurate... but because the temp sender will always be in coolant.

I've heard of issues using them in the upper hose.
 

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Also remember... single wire senders would require a ground lug on the adaptor.
 

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FYI, a properly operating fan clutch will work better than an electric fan if you're towing/hauling loads.
I did not know this. I know it uses more fuel but how does it "work better"
 

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FYI, a properly operating fan clutch will work better than an electric fan if you're towing/hauling loads.
Not sure what's going on here... but... I wonder if it's necessary?
 

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Just tidying up... moved this to the 3.0L forum.

The next thing is... which hose to put the sender adaptor in. You can use upper or lower... they even have them for the heater hose.

I have one for an aftermarket gauge and I chose the lower hose. Not because it's anymore accurate... but because the temp sender will always be in coolant.

I've heard of issues using them in the upper hose.
Roger. Sorry for posting in the wrong section!

I was looking at the upper hose for ease of install and I like that spot in the cooling system better. My thought, though I may be mistaken, is that it would give a slightly better(probably negligible) indication of engine coolant temp? My plan to avoid air bubbles at the sensor was to mount it sideways instead of vertically. I thought I had seen someone previously mention issues with air bubbles in aftermarket sensor locations, so hopefully that would keep that from happening. Not to mention my bottom hose is a poorly fitting aftermarket hose that barely avoids my serpentine. I was NOT happy with it when I was installing, but so far it has worked and doesn't rub.

Do you have a write up posted for yours as well? I'm currently working on the wiring and waiting for more parts to come in. Any extra reference or advice is always welcome.
 

Coop7

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Also remember... single wire senders would require a ground lug on the adaptor.
Ahhh. I was wondering why there were ground wires included with some of the kits. Didn't figure mine would need the extra ground, as mine is a three wire sensor. High, low and ground.

I ended up going with the Auto Meter 2283. I was a bit concerned as the ID of my hose is 1 7/16" and this kit claims to be 1.8"... Other places have the same kit at 1.5", so I'm not sure. What did you use if you don't mind me asking?
 

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Ya know... I've been laid up for months now. That didn't stop me from buying up parts though. My gauges and adaptor are sitting on the bench and I hope to get after my Bronco II in the next week or so. I just looked up and found the ID specs for the lower hose and ordered the 1 1/2 adaptor. I made the mistake of not getting the ground lug... but it was past the return window when I realized my mistake. I'm just gonna drill and tap my own ground.

I have also heard people having issues with then in the upper hose... but it has its benefits for putting it there.
 

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