Duratec cam locks? Need to remove harmonic balancer...


Dirtman

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I decided since I'm replacing my valve cover gasket to just suck it up and replace the leaking timing cover as well. I know all about the stupid harmonic balancer being press fit and removing it releases the crankshaft gear as well (which is why I've been ignoring the leak for 4 years).

Ive looked and found the camshaft timing tool aka a chunk of flat steel... and there is a tool for aligning TDC aka a bolt...

Ive never done this on the duratec before but worked on many other dohc engines doing water pumps and timing belts. All the previous engines I've worked on had cam lock tools so you could lock the cams in place before removing things so you didnt need to mess with the timing. I can find no such tool for the duratec. Do they not exist and I'm just stuck doing the cam timing no matter what?

If so what is the proper procedure for removing the crank pulley/balancer so the valves don't smack the piston since this is an interference engine?
 


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IIRC you set the crank to the pin on the crank alignment tool, make sure your cam alignment tool slips in and out nicely (the slots in the cams are off center) then back the pin out out so it doesn't get damaged, and remove the bolt at the crank. This is supposed to put everything in a "neutral position where the valves don't hit.


Ford says to use a belt wrench to hold the crank still and not use an impact wrench. I always used the impact wrench. If you are really that worried about it you can also get away with loosening the cam caps up so that if they jump they won't open the valves.
 

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that flat bar locks the cams in position. the lower edge of the cam slots align with the top of the head, so any straight bar will work. if your tool doesn't fit snug in the slots put feeler gauges on the top side until its tight.

the cams have a hex cast into them towards the front. you can put a wrench on it to move the cam around, its 24mm, or 15/16"

the balancer and gear are not press fit onto the crank, they spin freely if not bolted.
there are special diamond washers between the crank, gear, and balancer. they grip the parts under pressure from the bolt.
I'm not sure if they are single use washers.
 
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Thanks, makes sense now. Still an idiotic design lol. I just ordered the 2 tools.
 

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in summary, you need to set both cams, the crank, and the harmonic balancer all at TDC

set the cams with the bar, turn the crank until it hits the tool/bolt in the side of the block, set the harmonic balancer in place with the bolt into the timing cover.
 
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adsm08

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the balancer and gear are not press fit onto the crank, they spin freely if not bolted.
there are special diamond washers between the crank, gear, and balancer. they grip the parts under pressure from the bolt.
I'm not sure if they are single use washers.
According to Ford they are single use. I have found through experience that a brand new one can be reused about 3 times, in short order, before it will cause problems.

Thanks, makes sense now. Still an idiotic design lol. I just ordered the 2 tools.
Extremely.

Any interference engine that uses a timing belt instead of a chain, or doesn't have all the timing cogs keywayed is a retarded design at best.

check out these pics.
they are a 2010 2.5 Fusion Duratec but are the same, except for the variable cam stuff on the intake.
https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173954
It is very important to note that the crank locating pins for the 2.3 and 2.5 are different and will set the engine about 10* out of time if the wrong one is used. That is how I know how many times the washer can be reused.
 

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It is very important to note that the crank locating pins for the 2.3 and 2.5 are different and will set the engine about 10* out of time if the wrong one is used. That is how I know how many times the washer can be reused.

can you add a few details about the 2 pins?
I have both a 2010 2.5 disassembled and a 2002 2.3 still mostly intact to compare.
 

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From my understanding the bolt is torque to yeild so I already ordered that, didn't order the washer though.

This is a major pain in the ass just to fix a small oil leak. What does ford have against woodruff keys? :annoyed:
 

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From my understanding the bolt is torque to yeild so I already ordered that, didn't order the washer though.

This is a major pain in the ass just to fix a small oil leak. What does ford have against woodruff keys? :annoyed:
I'd order the washer.

It isn't as bad to do in a Ranger as it is in a Focus.

Ford moved away from woodruff keys because they are reusable and $50 diamond encrusted (wish I was kidding) washers aren't.
 

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1S7Z-6378-AA washer, MSRP $18.15 on Fordparts.com
 

pjtoledo

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From my understanding the bolt is torque to yeild so I already ordered that, didn't order the washer though.

This is a major pain in the ass just to fix a small oil leak. What does ford have against woodruff keys? :annoyed:

woodruff keys need the keyways machined, time & money
systems with woodruff keys need aligned BEFORE the parts are installed, time & money again.

the diamond washer systems are simpler, install the parts in "any" orientation, align them and tighten the bolts.

its one of those things where 12 seconds saved multiplied by 1 million engines adds up enough to give the top brass a bigger bonus.

"any" means approx where it belongs, don't want nicks in the pistons.



also, going back the to Yamaha v6s in early Taurus SHO engines there were issues with the woodruff keys causing wear in the keyways. that may have given the engineers something to consider.
 
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