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Duraspark II conversion no spark


franklin2

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Just forget the capacitor for now, take the wire off and see if it will run. It is just a radio interference capacitor like you said, so it will not affect the engine running, just make your AM radio a little noisey. You can find one in the junkyard later.
 


BigMeatyClaws

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Just forget the capacitor for now, take the wire off and see if it will run. It is just a radio interference capacitor like you said, so it will not affect the engine running, just make your AM radio a little noisey. You can find one in the junkyard later.
Tried with the wire removed, no change. I also tried getting a new coil since a major parts store was willing to replace it for free also with no change. I checked to make sure my spark tester wasn't defective by putting it in line on another car and the light bulb lit up every time the cylinder flashed so I know that's good. So I have a distributor with 9 mi on it, a brand new coil that tests good, a module that is new and tests good, and wires that are showing to be good between all of the three. I'm at wits end and calling a mechanic tomorrow.
 

franklin2

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So, you have put your testlight or voltmeter between the coil negative and the engine block, and when you crank it, the testlight is not blinking correct?

Here's a link if you still want to mess with it. Sometimes you have to walk away and leave it sit for awhile, and then get back at it.

 

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I was putting it between the coil and the distributor cap in-line. It's a plug in, spark plugs wire type
 

bobbywalter

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So, you have put your testlight or voltmeter between the coil negative and the engine block, and when you crank it, the testlight is not blinking correct?

Here's a link if you still want to mess with it. Sometimes you have to walk away and leave it sit for awhile, and then get back at it.

Great link.
 

bobbywalter

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I would use the gm module....the ford aftermarket boxes eat monkey moomoo
 

ford4wd08

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Tried with the wire removed, no change. I also tried getting a new coil since a major parts store was willing to replace it for free also with no change. I checked to make sure my spark tester wasn't defective by putting it in line on another car and the light bulb lit up every time the cylinder flashed so I know that's good. So I have a distributor with 9 mi on it, a brand new coil that tests good, a module that is new and tests good, and wires that are showing to be good between all of the three. I'm at wits end and calling a mechanic tomorrow.
I'm shocked you can even find a mechanic who knows what Duraspark II is lol.

I would do as suggested above and get an HEI module and try it. It is around 20-30 bucks, cheaper than any mechanic I'm sure.

I have a big block of aluminum stock that my HEI is mounted to on the fender. Keeps it cool, and it should last a long time.

This picture is before I took the side cutters to all of my computer harness after my conversion.
 

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franklin2

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I was putting it between the coil and the distributor cap in-line. It's a plug in, spark plugs wire type
That's not the type of light was was referring to. I was talking about the 12v testlight with the little lightbulb in the handle. If the module is turning the coil on and off, you should see it blink with the ground clipped to the block, and the probe touching the negative of the coil.
 

BigMeatyClaws

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Final update for this thread:
I checked everything again. I have continuity in my wires from distributor to module. Distributor tests good. Coil tests good. Tried another module with no change. I've ordered a GM 4 pin and I'm going to give it a whirl. I went with a PerTronix just to maybe increase my odds of getting a good product. Who knows, we'll see. Glad this isn't my daily driver.

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. We can't win em all!
 

ford4wd08

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Final update for this thread:
I checked everything again. I have continuity in my wires from distributor to module. Distributor tests good. Coil tests good. Tried another module with no change. I've ordered a GM 4 pin and I'm going to give it a whirl. I went with a PerTronix just to maybe increase my odds of getting a good product. Who knows, we'll see. Glad this isn't my daily driver.

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. We can't win em all!
Good luck. Check back in with us.
 

BigMeatyClaws

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It fired right up with the GM HEI module. I used an old 76 junkyard one just to test before using the real one I bought and didn't heat sink it. It lasted about 3 minutes before it died. Might have just overheated, maybe I burned it up. Either way, step in the right direction and only $10 lost. I have a PerTronix flamethrower module and a proper heat sink and paste ready to install when I get a chance.
 

ford4wd08

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It fired right up with the GM HEI module. I used an old 76 junkyard one just to test before using the real one I bought and didn't heat sink it. It lasted about 3 minutes before it died. Might have just overheated, maybe I burned it up. Either way, step in the right direction and only $10 lost. I have a PerTronix flamethrower module and a proper heat sink and paste ready to install when I get a chance.
Glad to hear. The HEI module is very simple to use. I thought it was a no brainer when I did my swap, especially after seeing the splicing required to get duraspark module to work with an '85.
 

BigMeatyClaws

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With the PerTronix, it's running great. Need to stitch up the exhaust where I pulled the smog pump tubing and get the timing perfect. Very happy with it. I would recommend the swap to anyone. I still don't know why the duraspark module wouldn't work, but I'm not worried about it anymore.
 

kimcrwbr1

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I am wondering if there was a ground issue to the Duraspark module? If the distributor is not getting a good ground it can cause module failure adding a chassis ground to the black wire on the module will correct that issue…
 

BigMeatyClaws

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It had good ground, verified with ohmmeter.
 

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