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Duraspark conversion.

tw205

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Of all the stuff I've read on the Duraspark conversion, no one says what happens with all of the left-over wiring. I have wires on the passenger side of the engine compartment just sitting on the inner fender and battery box. Is there anything there that's (re)used or should I just unplug it all? Do people also remove the 'brain box' from behind the passenger side kick panel?
The level of completion will be different for each individual. The required labor to accomplish the task is far less than the labor to remove all evidence. Where as one individual may know the whys and what fors of the conversion and is intelligent enough to know what devices and peripheral equipment is no longer needed, others may not understand the workings of an internal combustion engine but still chop into whatever wire someone on line said to splice into. Walking the latter thru removing a wire and vacuumed harness without destroying the basic alt/temp/ oil pressure wiring as well as neutral start and reverse lights electric choke ect ect ect is an invitation to disaster.
I’ve done two duraspark conversions in BIIs. Neither one has any remains of the computer system in the truck.
Some want it clean and neat. Others just want it to run. Still some just want a big red easy button to solve their dilemma. Whatever path you embark on , enjoy. ✌🏻
 


Bronco648

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Not sure on that one. I'd start with RockAuto, and check that and some other parts website so see if you pin it down by how it's equipped (i.e.- alt only, no AC). If the belt length spec is listed, you could then check it on the truck with a tape measure before ordering or buying one.
Yeah, I'll probably need to measure. I was hoping someone had done this before and could provide a measurement or part number. The issue is "how it's equipped". IIRC, all Rangers with the 2.8 used the same belt to spin the alternator, fan and AIR pump (second belt for fan & PS pump and third belt for fan & A/C, if so equipped). There weren't any 2.8s without the AIR pump so the combination of Alternator & Fan (only) never existed. Obviously, this is before idler pulleys and serpentine belts. It'd be cool to figure out how to convert the 2.8 to use one belt but the bracketry involved would weigh a ton. I can't believe how heavy the power steering pump bracket is. The AIR pump bracket is also super-heavy. It's no wonder these things struggle with fuel economy.
 

RobbieD

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The level of completion will be different for each individual. The required labor to accomplish the task is far less than the labor to remove all evidence. Where as one individual may know the whys and what fors of the conversion and is intelligent enough to know what devices and peripheral equipment is no longer needed, others may not understand the workings of an internal combustion engine but still chop into whatever wire someone on line said to splice into. Walking the latter thru removing a wire and vacuumed harness without destroying the basic alt/temp/ oil pressure wiring as well as neutral start and reverse lights electric choke ect ect ect is an invitation to disaster.
I’ve done two duraspark conversions in BIIs. Neither one has any remains of the computer system in the truck.
Some want it clean and neat. Others just want it to run. Still some just want a big red easy button to solve their dilemma. Whatever path you embark on , enjoy. ✌🏻
Thanks for adding that. Well said, and right on the money correct!

When I did mine (which was back in 2009) I used the Ford wiring manual (the EVTM), the Ford shop manual, and a Ford training manual for the 2.8 with feedback system. Along with what I found here on TRS, and on the internet. At each step of the way, I knew what I was doing, why I was doing it, and I knew how I wanted it done beforehand.

Thus, no mysteries, no surprises.

I know that sometimes, you gotta just jump into things and figure it out as you go. But if you're going to do something right, and you have the time, you're best off to research it beforehand and collect as much reference material as you can.

Manuals are worth every penny they cost, and they're inexpensive on eBay if you've got patience. I consider mine as a big part of my "Ranger Porn Collection".

74278
 

RobbieD

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IIRC, all Rangers with the 2.8 used the same belt to spin the alternator, fan and AIR pump (second belt for fan & PS pump and third belt for fan & A/C, if so equipped). There weren't any 2.8s without the AIR pump so the combination of Alternator & Fan (only) never existed.
I think that you're right on both counts. And I'm not sure about whether any other 2.8 application (older Mustang or Pinto) might be helpful.
 

tw205

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Your pics reminded me of something: does anyone know what fan belt to use if you only have an alternator (no AIR pump)?

(Truck doesn't have AC and the Fan/PS pump belt would be same as factory)
It seem to me that removing the air pump made the belt required the same as the power steering side but it’s been a while since I did mine. Easy enough to test and if not it will at least arm you with info on how much shorter or longer you need.
 

ford4wd08

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Your pics reminded me of something: does anyone know what fan belt to use if you only have an alternator (no AIR pump)?

(Truck doesn't have AC and the Fan/PS pump belt would be same as factory)
It is the same size as the power steering pump only belt. You can run the same belt on both sides. That's what I did.
 

ford4wd08

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ford4wd08

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OK. Here's a few.

'84 model, automatic with AC and I kept the AIR pump. EGR was deleted, along with the several various sensors and actuators for the feedback system. Original 2150A carb was kept, but rebuilt and the idle solenoid replaced with a homemade metering block. Ford Duraspark module with a can style coil. Remaining wiring was reharnessed and cleaned up as needed.

View attachment 74272

View attachment 74273

Not really "clean", but definitely less cluttered.

View attachment 74276



YES! With all of the crap removed, the old truck is now just like the old '60s cars that I grew up with.
Robbie's wiring puts mine to shame currently... That's on my list to clean up soon.
 

19Walt93

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It is the same size as the power steering pump only belt. You can run the same belt on both sides. That's what I did.
That's way too easy. It must have been an engineering accident. Whenever I need a custom belt, I take the old one and cut it, then splice it back together once it's cut to the length I want with a stapler. My friend at Napa uses his gizmo to measure it and sells me a belt.
 

ford4wd08

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That's way too easy. It must have been an engineering accident. Whenever I need a custom belt, I take the old one and cut it, then splice it back together once it's cut to the length I want with a stapler. My friend at Napa uses his gizmo to measure it and sells me a belt.
I agree let's rephrase it and say there is enough adjustment in the brackets to allow you to use the same belt on both sides :)
 

19Walt93

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I agree let's rephrase it and say there is enough adjustment in the brackets to allow you to use the same belt on both sides :)
That's still a win.
 

franklin2

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On the wiring clean up, if you do it a certain way you can do it easily with no wiring diagram. The key to this is the computer harness was independent on these older ones, except for a couple of power wires over by the solenoid on the pass side that went to the EEC relays.

So you can disconnect the battery, get behind the kickpanel and take the computer out and take that large plug off the computer. There is a large grommet in the firewall. If you take that out, you can fish that large computer connector through to the engine compartment.

Then you just start undoing wires. Everything the computer went to leaves. It will be a solenoid or a sensor. Or the old TFI distributor which you are getting rid of. Your goal is to pull that large plug for the computer out of the vehicle with everything still attached. You may need to unwind some of the wiring from the wires that are staying. Some of them run all the way over to the driver's side for the ignition wiring, you just unplug that. The few wires you find running to the battery power on the pass side, you do cut them.

Depending on what ignition you swap to, you can just plug it in using the factory plugs if you are going duraspark II dist and box. If you are doing a hybrid or some other ignition, you just need a hot wire and that is the white with blue dots or stripe on the driver's side fender.
 

Bronco648

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I went out to the garage last night just to see if I could identify some of the wiring loom based on the connectors. The alternator and A4LD use some connectors that are easy to identify. I found two wires that go the the alternator as well as the two connectors for the slushbox. But, I can see that having a complete wiring diagram would be very beneficial. I can also see how it's pretty easy to ID what needs to go from the old TIF box (based on what @franklin2 posted, above).

Can anyone suggest a place to get a complete wiring diagram? Paper or electronic, doesn't matter.

I know you can download bits & pieces from the Tech Library but I'd prefer something complete, with all of the diagrams. I'm a little disappointed in that my Ford Shop Manual is completely lacking (unless that's the way Ford did it, separate manuals for wiring - my early Mustang shop manuals always had wiring diagrams). TIA.

ALSO - I noticed that the reverse lock-out connector, for the tranny, has exposed wires just above the plug. I'm not sure if this can be fixed or not. Is there a source for replacement connectors? It looks like it has a Ford part number on it.
 

RobbieD

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Basically, there are two Ford factory wiring resources:
Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), a book format; and
Wiring Diagrams which are large sheet format.

The first one, I think, is the more helpful of the two. All of the electrical systems are grouped and (especially on the older books) each system's operation is described and troubleshooting steps are included. The EVTM will also include connector pinouts and component location views. These books are easier to find than the wiring diagrams.

The Wiring Diagrams is a larger format of a complete wiring diagram of the whole vehicle, all in the same view. These came in passenger car and trucks version, so usually you have to buy the whole book. These don't seem to come for sale as often as the EVTM.

I got my manuals from eBay. If you look often and you're patient, the EVTMs can be found very reasonably. Well worth the investment.

ADDED:
There's several 1985 Ranger EVTMs on eBay right now, starting at about $18 shipped:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363619521062?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item54a9699226:g:fUgAAOSwHGNhjoZd&amdata=enc:AQAGAAAA4JAm8TRLKGb6A3mP+/sELGdtCjFrqsU5dOl5qUibK3oeLISWx3iMXcOoHVLk9d/FU4DK2oabltdig5Jwx8md5quSw17UwEHCM2Xx1vn5A1eLDEIBckGK8F/Bw+Zw3knGwNwuXZmBGYD771WXuZ8BrRvPkYS127BHBNZy2i8KqrLEK1KbhT71Y1eJYXB3Nq3ZDNUBNXMJhf4TLLP0B6S0/QSYmE5+j/Xv2pgw6dfZso2gzJPx/MG9R5XXbEppDaxjkaOGceeDYD8R8Ou7qlkE78ZEXWkJYPta3fWFnU1LVYtv|tkp:BFBMxrjpiPxf
 
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Bronco648

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Thanks @RobbieD !

I opted to get both the EVTM as well as the large format wiring diagrams, for ~$31 total. Can't beat that. My wife's in-home business has a large format copier so I'll be able to make "garage copies" of the wiring diagrams. Now, cleaning up the wiring in the engine compartment should be a snap.
 

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