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Duraspark conversion.

franklin2

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I converted from TFI, to points, then when running correctly, then to duraspark II. Here is what I am using:

ignition coil
Accel 8140
AdvanceAuto 2018-04-08


Ign. Resistor:
BWD RU19
O'Reillys 2015-05-01
I would not be afraid to run a points distributor with a pertronix conversion. Not as cheap as other options, but should work well.
 


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4x4prepper

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I have done Pertronix conversions on V-8s, the Duraspark II blue is more reliable, especially if you leave the key switch on for any extended period of time. Unless you get the very expensive newest version, but, last time I checked they did not offer that for the 2.8L.
 

Hale Ranger

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So I’ve done two of these now and both run fine. I’m looking for input on some things I did to mine that were not mentioned in the tech section used when I took on these projects. When I did mine I chose to make my own wire harnesses as searching for an existing one proved futile. The first conversion, I went by the book on parts needed and it went without a hitch. The second one I decided to use the original coil instead of the one listed in the parts list. It fired up for a bit till the magic smoke escaped the ignition module. Researched causes and concluded either the module wasn’t grounded well or the absence of a ballast resistor caused the failure. A new module, grounded securely, and a ballast resistor were installed and I’ve not had any more issues, although I’ve only ran it for maybe 20 minutes, as it’s not a completed project yet. I went and installed a ballast resistor on the first conversion as well thinking it may release the smoke. My understanding is the duraspark pintos and mustangs used an inline resister incorporated in the wire harness. So I know some of you fellas will have insight for me if I’m right or wrong. And if a ballast resistor is needed we could add that information to the duraspark update @Jim Oaks is doing.
Aaand GO!! 😎
Could you provide the parts list. I am going to convert my 84 Ranger 2.8.
 

tw205

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Chttps://www.therangerstation.com/tech/2-8l-duraspark-conversion/ould you provide the parts list. I am going to convert my 84 Ranger 2.8.
 

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Being these distributors are really hard to find any more... there is an optional distributor with dual vacuum ports that can be use in this conversion.

This is a picture that shows the differences between the two. I marked up the photo to update the above mentioned Tech Article. I'm adding it here to maybe help you find either one and also let members critique the verbiage used to describe them before updating the article.

2.8L dist.diff.jpg
 

RobbieD

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Shouldn't that be "timing challenged port"?

Otherwise, it's perfect! (y)
 

franklin2

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As of a couple of weeks ago, the dual port version is unavailable now also.
 

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franklin2

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Not bad. Never bought anything over seas. I wonder if you can get caps and rotors for that over here? I think you can get a Bosch cap and rotor over here, but don't know if they are the same.
 

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How can you tell if that distributor is designed for a 2.8 vs 2.9 rotation?
 

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fastpakr

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That works. Been a while since i looked at either one.
 

Hale Ranger

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Has anyone ever converted a Cardone 84-2698 to a 30-2691? Looks like you would add a vacuum advance and add Pertronix 1261 electronics to it.

Cardone says the 30-2691 is not obsolete - I replied that if you can't find one it might as well be. :)
 

franklin2

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Has anyone ever converted a Cardone 84-2698 to a 30-2691? Looks like you would add a vacuum advance and add Pertronix 1261 electronics to it.

Cardone says the 30-2691 is not obsolete - I replied that if you can't find one it might as well be. :)
Never tried it. I did look at a 2.9 TFI distributor, the shaft size was different. If the shaft size of the 84-2698 was the same as the 30-2691, it may have possibilities. If you look at the guts of both of the distributors you listed, they are totally different. I don't know why they call the distributor listed on Amazon a "HEI" distributor. HEI is a GM term. That is a Ford TFI distributor that came stock on the 2.8 and the 2.9 in the 1980's. The duraspark has the little start wheel and a different pickup. The TFI has a large wheel with square teeth on it and a different pickup. The duraspark generates a A/C sine wave signal while the TFI generates a square wave signal. But if you could get the shaft to fit, you may be able to modify everything else to fit.

I have both of these distributors, the wore out older Mustang II distributor and I am now running the TFI with locked timing. I just checked my mileage yesterday. I don't get as good fuel mileage in the winter. But as expected, with the locked timing I am only getting 16 mpg gallon on my first mpg check. I am going to check it again, but I was getting 20 mpg. If I drive it very long losing 4 mpg, it won't take long to pay for something else to get adjustable timing back. I keep going back to this thing here.


Reason is, I have been toying with the idea of converting a 2.9 I have to carb. The above would allow me to do that if I ever decided to.
 

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Sorry if this question deserves its own thread but...

What's the consensus when it comes to a mounting location for the Duraspark module? If it's susceptible to heat, are you guys mounting it in the cab?

Also, is anyone using any vibration isolation?

Thanks.
 

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