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Dual Tank Setup (Didn't know where else to post)


RangerReviver1990

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So I've been thinking about adding one of them auxiliary tanks for my truck, not that I necessary need one but it would be pretty cool to have a Dual Tank Ranger, you know? I saw this guy from Australia add an aftermarket tank, just a generic auxiliary tank and installed a 3 way solenoid valve so he could flip a switch from inside his cab, he said that he had to get a slightly smaller tank than his stock tank and he said something about letting your first tank almost completely drain and then swap over to the aux tank, and then when you switch it back over, the first tank will be 3/4 full or something like that because of the return lines on the original tank. So, say I obtain a Bronco II tank (idk if it'll fit under my truck because I just got a leveling kit under my truck) and hook up a filler neck and a fuel line and connect a 3 way solenoid valve to the original fuel lines and the BII lines, would that be theoretically possible? Idk, I've never worked with dual fuel tank systems. Any help would be appreciated
 


Brain75

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Probably the best resource for info on this is the 'yard. Head to the junkyard and find a factory dual tank (those were only 1st gen if I got my info correct 83-87), scope it all out, take pics, etc etc. I know of one in a junkyard near me 6' short bed. The durable parts you could pull from that donor. The stock setup used a normal tank in front and deleted the spare tire below moving it to tailgate hung or in the bed (stock was in the bed, a lot of aftermarket moved it to a bronco 2 style with it mounted behind the tailgate).

It's a fair amount of work and cost for what you get out of it. I take it you have a regular route with a long stretch of no gas stations or gas stations are horribly sparse and overpriced?
 

JoshT

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FWIW, you could by them that way back in the square body days. Unfortunately replacement parts for the stock setup are non existant, and it doesn't seem like a large percentage of sales had the option.

I saw this guy from Australia add an aftermarket tank, just a generic auxiliary tank and installed a 3 way solenoid valve so he could flip a switch from inside his cab, he said that he had to get a slightly smaller tank than his stock tank and he said something about letting your first tank almost completely drain and then swap over to the aux tank, and then when you switch it back over, the first tank will be 3/4 full or something like that because of the return lines on the original tank.
That is certainly one way to do it. The original setup did not use high pressure pumps in the tank, it used low pressure pumps in the tanks feeding a reservior on the frame rail, with a high pressure pump inline. None of the dual tank specific parts are available now, so you'd have to devise your own setup.

The reason for his method of tank switching is because the valve he used won't switch the return to the aux tank. His valve switches between the main and aux tank for feed, but the return goes straight back to the main tank. You've got to make sure that you alway pull the main tank practically empty so that the return doesn't overflow. Then run the aux tank down, then switch back to suck the returned fuel out of the main.

There are valves available that will switch both the supply and return lines. IIRC it switched the pump power too, but it wouldn't be difficult to wire that up if not. It's been talked about in the past in previous dual tank threads. It's the valve used in a later full size dual tank truck. I don't know if you truck uses an in line or in tank high ressure pump. Since you won't have a reservior to feed an inline high pressure pump, you'd be beter off going with in tank high pressure pumps.

Probably the best resource for info on this is the 'yard. Head to the junkyard and find a factory dual tank (those were only 1st gen if I got my info correct 83-87), scope it all out, take pics, etc etc. I know of one in a junkyard near me 6' short bed. The durable parts you could pull from that donor.
I'm certainly not going to say that it isn't possible, but good luck. I've seen several online, but in my 25 years of being a ranger enthusiast and junk yad hunting, I've seen exactly one dual tank Ranger in person. It was not in a "yard", but it is now in my yard. It'll be another yearor two before I start really fixing it, but I had to get it.

If you do find one in the "yard" most likely the only good pieces on it will be the crossmember, straps, and the 13 gallon aux tank itself if not rusted out. I think the tank on mine is plastic so it might have survived, but I haven't verified that. The switching reservior on the frame is a known failure point for the system, IMO not worth buying if you can't check that it works. Most likely, even if the tank is good, the tank sender is going to be rusted up and corroded. Again, replacements aren't availalbe for any of those components.

So, say I obtain a Bronco II tank (idk if it'll fit under my truck because I just got a leveling kit under my truck) and hook up a filler neck and a fuel line and connect a 3 way solenoid valve to the original fuel lines and the BII lines, would that be theoretically possible?
Some people have installed a 23 gallon BII tank in that same area, either as an aux tank or a main when the original was removed. It's got about the same foot print, but much deeper. You'd have to remove the spare tire mount and build a crossmember to hold straps for the front of the tank. Be aware that the BII tank will hang down a few inches below the bottom of the bed. On a stock height truck or lifted truck, the tank will be visible under the bed. Not as much so on a lowered truck due to the angle, but then you've got to worry about ground clearance and stuff in the road.

Full disclosure. In a previous build for a 2/3 lowered 80s Ranger, I was going to be removing the original tank and running the BII tank behind the axle. Went so far as to but the tank and everything to install it. IMO if I were doing it now, or needed to replace the aux tank on the 85, I'd probably measure and try to find an aftermarket cell in the 10-15 gallon range that would tuck up in the hole and not hang down so far. Possibly even measure and have one built for the application.
 

Brain75

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It's amazing how many parts swap even in 50 years difference. I got a Bronco (fullsize not a B2) plastic fuel tank and put that in the same spot (under bed spare tire area) in my 1948 F1. New tank was HUGE and no longer INSIDE the cab, no longer rusted and spewing orange goo everytime you put E10 in. No special gimmicks required, just bolt it up frame width was spot on.

I myself have no desire to go to all the headache and cost to make this mod, but if I was doing it, a plastic fuel cell from a B2 would be my choice. Again I wouldn't do it because the cost to me would not outweigh the gain, and there are tons of gas stations in Colorado and Texas. Only when you drive through Last Chance or Punkin Center do you have to pay attention to fueling up before you leave civilization. and I REALLY don't want to deal with the spare taking up space somewhere else. There's even signage just outside Limon that says "no services 96 miles" - gentle reminders you have entered no man's land.
 

JoshT

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I got a Bronco (fullsize not a B2) plastic fuel tank and put that in the same spot (under bed spare tire area) in my 1948 F1. New tank was HUGE and no longer INSIDE the cab,
That's on my to-do list for the F-100. I did consider using that BII tank that I'll no longer be using on the Ranger. Since then a company came out with one that is designed to bolt into the "spare tire" area with no modification to the frame other than drilling a few holes. I'm pretty sure I'll be using that and grafting a fuel door into the bedside, but it isn't going to be cheap and low priority for the moment.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"



they have manual valves too.

depending on what i am doing a can have three tanks.



my main tank is 34 gallons. sometimes a have a 15 gallon jump sometimes a 26 gallon and 15 gallon jump.
 

RangerReviver1990

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2’ Leveling Kit
Tire Size
265/75
[
The reason for his method of tank switching is because the valve he used won't switch the return to the aux tank. His valve switches between the main and aux tank for feed, but the return goes straight back to the main tank. You've got to make sure that you alway pull the main tank practically empty so that the return doesn't overflow. Then run the aux tank down, then switch back to suck the returned fuel out of the main.

There are valves available that will switch both the supply and return lines. IIRC it switched the pump power too, but it wouldn't be difficult to wire that up if not. It's been talked about in the past in previous dual tank threads. It's the valve used in a later full size dual tank truck. I don't know if you truck uses an in line or in tank high ressure pump. Since you won't have a reservior to feed an inline high pressure pump, you'd be beter off going with in tank high pressure pumps.
I think my Ranger has those in tank fuel pumps. I don't think it's be too difficult to wire it all up tbh. I don't how I'll be able to have the truck read the aux tank level without buying everything but the OEM fuel switch valve thing
 

bobbywalter

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4WD
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sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
it can be simple to do with in tank pumps and the return line valve. just tee the psi side together and the check valves hold until they dont and the return line valve redirects the fuel to the proper side. a three way switch and some relays so you have a kill feature or just a regular switch with three relays incorporating the 57 a and b feature and fuel level.
 

JoshT

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I don't how I'll be able to have the truck read the aux tank level without buying everything but the OEM fuel switch valve thing
A standard relay. You'd need a universal fuel level sender with the right ohm range for your truck, those are available.

Wire the stock sender to the NC terminal of the relay, and the aux to the NO terminal. Power the relay with the same switch that switches your tank valve.
 

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