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drop fuel tank or remove bed?


cnord

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I have a 1996 Ranger 4x4 4L manual, short box. I need to gain access to the fuel tank wiring harness to test the sender (my fuel gauge is stuck on full). Once, I have access I suspect I'll replace the sender and fuel pump. My question is: Is it easier to slide back the bed or jackstand the truck and drop the fuel tank?

Best wishes,

Chris
 


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I think it's a thousand times easier to drop the tank.

It also depends on how much rust your truck has, if you live in the rust belt, expect to break off most or all of the bolts that hold the bed on. Then removing it completely to cut off the nut clips and broken bolts. No fun. Some will disagree but I think it's way easier to remove a skid plate and two straps.
 

BLOODBANE

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I hate dropping fuel tanks. 8 bed bolts, the filler neck and tail light wires. Slide the bed back 1 to 2 feet and its right there (mine is a short bed also). When I build my flatbed for mine, I will make a door just for the purpose of getting to the fuel pump.
 

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I vote for lifting the bed. But mine was relatively easy. I have a "southern all it's life" truck. The bed bolts were rusty, but by pushing the breaker bar with my foot, I could get them free. I also hosed them down with penetrating oil from the top and whatever I could get to underneath. Make sure you have a good quality socket. Mine is a '93 splash with only 6 bed bolts.
 

Haywire6000

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I vote for lifting the bed, you don't have to crawl under the truck. Also it usually takes less time to pull the bed then to alone get the tank back in( this is from my point of view)
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I just dropped the tank on mine a month or two ago because it was leaking.

One nut and one bolt hold the fuel tank on. The nut came right off. The bolt wanted to twist the tank strap and wouldn't go... he got hacksawed off which was easy because I have a bodylift.

Getting the bed bolts broke loose 10 years ago for said bodylift wasn't much fun though...
 

black_demon69

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pull the bed and let gravity work for you during reassembly..

also use antiseize when putting bed back on
 

ratdude747

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On mine I'd drop the tank, as I have a topper which would have to come off... and then the bedliner would need to come out (which is entrapped by the topper). Normally I'd agree to pull the bed but if you have a plastic bedliner and a topper, then it may be too much trouble.
 

97RangerXLT

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Another vote for pulling the bed. did this with my 97 4.5 years ago to replace the filler neck and spring hangers/ shackles. it took me longer to get the bedliner out of the truck than it did to actually pull the bed. just need 2 people to do it. the bed is held on by 6 bolts, three 7mm screws around the filler neck, and unhook the tailight harness. less than 20 minutes work, and you are not on your back trying to support a 20 gallon fuel tank in which even if it had a gallon of gas in it would make it awkward to handle while unbolting or rebolting the straps to hold it in place. Plus on my truck, i have the 4x4 skid plates under the tank that would have to be removed...

AJ
 

AllanD

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Another vote for pulling the bed here....


Even it I had to pull a bedliner and topper.

There is also the point where working on a full fuel tank from below is all but impossible.

Additionally if you have a 4x4 you also usually have to remove a skid plate as well...

If you have not needed to remove your bed YET, for some other reason, eventually you will... Antiseeze is your friend when reassembling use it as though the stuff spoils!
 

gw33gp

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I have done it both ways and removing the bed is the easiest in my opinion. I also have a topper and bed liner. The bed liner is the spray on type and the bolts are still accessible. I also had access to a fork lift and was able to lift the bed with the topper attached. Yes, that made it easier but I would still vote for removing the bed with no topper or fork lift.
 

Mark_88

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Yes, me too...out of the two ways (there is a third and fourth way but I won't go there) I found lifting the bed was easier and gives you an opportunity to do other work that probably needs to be done if you plan on keeping the truck...

Largely depends on where you are...and, of course, how old/young you are. I didn't mind crawling around like a wounded snake under my truck (wounded after banging my head on the frame and nearly burning my face on a hot exhaust system)...but as I aged gracefully (or not) I found it was better to be on top of things...
 

Blown

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If the tank and straps don't need to be fixed, why not cut an opening in the bed and make a hatch type door? I don't know if a bed cross member or other stuff is in the way?

This posted knowing I can basic fab and weld. :icon_welder:
 

Mark_88

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If the tank and straps don't need to be fixed, why not cut an opening in the bed and make a hatch type door? I don't know if a bed cross member or other stuff is in the way?

This posted knowing I can basic fab and weld. :icon_welder:
That was one of the other two methods I was thinking of...nothing in the way since the rib on the box is aligned with the cross member for the frame runs...at least it was on my extended cab 6' box.

And that is another reason why I liked the box off...when I was doing my spring bushings and shackles I found one of the tank strap supports had rotted out...it would have required removing the bed and the cab to do properly but so much for that effort...I replaced the rear straps so it won't fall down for a long time.
 

cnord

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the votes are tallied....drop tank or lift bed

Thank you to all that replied.

I tipped up the bed to get access to the fuel tank. I removed the hold down bolts (hassle -- 3 came off using the impact wrench, 3 with a 3 foot cheater) but no damage. I reinstalled the rear two bolts and left about 1/2 of play. This allowed me to tip up the bed, but keeping it attached to the frame. Plenty of room to replace the fuel pump/sender unit.

No need to muck with any of the electrical, just be careful no to lift too high or you might damage the tailgate. I recommend using anti-seize when reinstalling the bed bolts.
 

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