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Driver's Front Bumpstop (D35 TTB 4x4)


lowspeedpursuit

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Could anyone with the D35 TTB stock in their truck share a picture and a height measurement for the driver's front bumpstop? I feel like the stop in this position is different between 4x2 and 4x4, but I can't find any hard info. Thanks in advance.
 


rumblecloud

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I'll try and get you one in the morning...I do have a leveling kit - maybe an inch and a half.
 

lowspeedpursuit

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Cool, thank you. No pressure, just keep me in mind if you have the opportunity.

If nobody can grab one, it might be possible for me to buy the 4x4 bumpstop in that position, but I'd rather avoid the expense without confirming they're shorter. Junkyard, unsurprisingly, has nothing.
 

rumblecloud

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I thought I knew what a bump stop was, but apparently, I don't have one - or two...
Anyway, here's a shot showing TTB distance to bottom of frame - or a close approximation.

Hope this helps. If you need a different view lemme know...
r
Bump stop 1.jpg
 

lowspeedpursuit

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Oh sick, thank you. That's how the stop on the lone 4x4 at my junkyard looked: just the bracket, with the entire rubber missing.

I still think the stops are different in some way, but your picture actually shows I have the exact opposite problem. My frame-to-beam clearance, measured from the left side of the tape, is 2" flat, compared to your 3-1/4".

Is your leveling kit 2"? I have the 2wd coils in there, which I want to say are 1.5" taller than the 4x4s free length, so there's still a discrepancy. I already have +2* camber; if I jam another puck under the springs, it starts to get really stupid.

Why the hell is my beam so close to my frame?
 
Last edited:

rumblecloud

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I just did a washer lift, so no kit. It was only a little over an inch stack which gives approximately 1-1/2 inch lift:
1inch washer lift.jpg
I had a friend weld the stack.

I don't go off-road at all. This is my resto-rod to keep me outta trouble.
 

lowspeedpursuit

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Well shit, I feel like a 1" spacer stack should end up very similar to my slightly longer springs. Are there more frame differences between the different trucks that nobody talks about? I feel like I'm not gonna get to the bottom of this without two trucks right next to one another.

In any event, thank you for all your help.
 

scotts90ranger

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There's like 3 springs offered between regular cab 4 cylinder and extended cab 4.0L so it changed over time... that and gravity takes effect...

I think I have one bump stop but I'm no where near stock suspension up front...

If you want to throw some washers in, find a local fastener shop (probably not Fastenal, they pretty much only deal in bulk but do what ya gotta do...) and get yourself some 1 1/4" washers preferably bare steel or regular nickel plated not hot dipped galvanized. 1 1/4" washers have the 1 3/8" hole that you need to go over the radius arm studs and are almost half the price of 1 3/8" washers and easier to find... plus 1 3/8" washers have a 1 1/2" hole in the middle (don't ask, I don't know...), this nearly useless trivia was apparently interesting enough to commit to long term memory since I did my washer lift 12 years ago...
 

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There's like 3 springs offered between regular cab 4 cylinder and extended cab 4.0L so it changed over time... that and gravity takes effect...

I think I have one bump stop but I'm no where near stock suspension up front...

If you want to throw some washers in, find a local fastener shop (probably not Fastenal, they pretty much only deal in bulk but do what ya gotta do...) and get yourself some 1 1/4" washers preferably bare steel or regular nickel plated not hot dipped galvanized. 1 1/4" washers have the 1 3/8" hole that you need to go over the radius arm studs and are almost half the price of 1 3/8" washers and easier to find... plus 1 3/8" washers have a 1 1/2" hole in the middle (don't ask, I don't know...), this nearly useless trivia was apparently interesting enough to commit to long term memory since I did my washer lift 12 years ago...
How do you get a hole bigger than the washer?
 

rumblecloud

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What's the worst that could happen?
These are what I used. So far they're working our pretty good. But I don't do off-road ... not intentionally anyway.😬


20220105_153131.jpg 20220105_153241.jpg 20220105_180013.jpg
 

lowspeedpursuit

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There's like 3 springs offered between regular cab 4 cylinder and extended cab 4.0L so it changed over time... that and gravity takes effect...

If you want to throw some washers in...
I don't really want to lift the truck for lifting's sake (I have another vehicle for that), I just need the bumpstops to work, since the access road to where I usually drive on the beach is literally a washboard.

If we figure that my clearance is less because both my 4x4 and 2wd springs are old and sagging, so old 4x4 springs -> shorter than stock height, old 2wd springs -> puts me back at stock height, and rumblecloud's setup -> 1.5" over stock, that all checks out, but it still requires that a stock 4x4 bumpstop be shorter than a 2wd bump, which is what I set out to confirm.

I can get the original bumpstop to clear the diff by sliding a 1.5" puck under my 2wd springs, but that pushes my camber from 2* to 3+*, and makes the front sit higher than the rear.

For now, I grabbed a spare 2wd bump when I was at the junkyard and chopped it with a hacksaw to give what seems like reasonable clearance, with plenty of material left. I can throw a picture up once I get my camera sorted out.
 

scotts90ranger

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How do you get a hole bigger than the washer?
I was referring to the hole in the center of the washer...

Bump stops on a TTB shouldn't be in your consideration for washboards I don't think, as long as you have enough travel in things so hard parts don't contact shocks are more important for that type of thing. I know my '00 Explorer lives on the bumpstops most of the time when the suspension moves and back when my '90 was stock the bump stops got some action since they were flattened out but only had like 3/4" clearance or less...
 

lowspeedpursuit

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So looking back, I guess I didn't actually describe my situation in detail when I started this thread, I figured I would just quickly try to grab the measurement.

The issue isn't degree of clearance (.5" vs 1.5", etc.), but rather that post-4x4-conversion (2wd to D35 TTB), my driver's front bump had zero clearance, and rested on the diff at static ride height. Not barely brushing, like full-on mooshed into the diff. So my first thought was "the donor springs are sagging", so I reinstalled the 2wd springs, which were clearly longer free. This definitely raised the front of the vehicle, but the bump still didn't clear. I drove around for awhile anyway, and the ride is fairly harsh on bumps since it's got direct contact. I'm concerned about the washboards not because of ride comfort, but because one hypothetical option would be "just run without the bumpstop", but I can't guarantee I wouldn't see metal-on-metal in the washboards.

According to the service manual, the 4x4 and 2wd bumps are different, but it doesn't explain exactly how.
 

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I've seen at least 3 different length bumpstop on the fronts. But it's been so long indent remember what length they are or what they came off of? I'll go take a couple pics shortly of what I have right now.
 

lowspeedpursuit

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Interesting. I'm definitely curious.

This is my stock bumpstop, plus the piece I removed from the matching junkyard bumpstop to produce about .5" of clearance at static ride height.

94ranger_2wdbumpstopmeasure.jpg

And this is the chopped bumpstop in the truck. You can't see clearance because my front is at full droop on jackstands, but you can see how the bump ended up looking. Apologies for the camera not focusing.

94ranger_choppedbumpstopinplace.jpg

The part number stamped on the 2wd bumpstops is F37A-3B461-AA, and the bracket has a threaded hole, which is attached to the frame with a bolt.

The part number distributor websites are selling the "4x4 bumpstop" under is F37Z-3B461-B, and per the diagram the bracket has a stud, and is attached using a nut.
 

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