Drive shaft carrier bearing.

[ericbphoto]

They are replacing complete shaft both parts and carrier bearing.

Thats good. It probably took a beating no matter how slow or careful you drove it after It came loose.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

That reinforces my opinion against flat rate. I had to answer to customers with problems and they didn't want to hear "but he did it really fast" after it broke and they walked home in the rain. I wanted my techs to think like craftsmen- how good can I make this- instead of worrying whether they could afford to fix it right. All our nearest "competition" was flat rate. When they didn't/couldn't/wouldn't fix something and it was headed for lemon law, our Ford rep would call me and make an appointment for the lemon law mandated "final repair attempt". A PDI can't be done properly without lifting a vehicle, stupid front office decrees notwithstanding.

Ford has gotten really bad lately on their warranty times, they have lost a lot of good techs over it.

 

[adsm08]

A PDI can't be done properly without lifting a vehicle, stupid front office decrees notwithstanding.

I would agree, since the check sheet says to inspect under the vehicle for leaks.

 

[adsm08]

Ford has gotten really bad lately on their warranty times, they have lost a lot of good techs over it.

Amen.

I'm waiting for the day that they say it was the tech's fault the car broke in the first place and they won't pay the tech anything to fix it.

 

[19Walt93]

Amen.

I'm waiting for the day that they say it was the tech's fault the car broke in the first place and they won't pay the tech anything to fix it.

They kind of already did that. Modular engines were pretty much trouble free until 1999 F trucks showed up with oil leaking onto the starter from the head gaskets. Jack Nasser( the prince of assholes) squeezed the suppliers to reduce cost so the gasket company made a cheaper gasket. All the TSB's blamed the head gasket leaks on techs scratching the surfaces of the heads and block by not using plastic scrapers to remove the gasket. That was b/s, the original gaskets leaked before a tech touched them.

 

[adsm08]

They kind of already did that. Modular engines were pretty much trouble free until 1999 F trucks showed up with oil leaking onto the starter from the head gaskets. Jack Nasser( the prince of assholes) squeezed the suppliers to reduce cost so the gasket company made a cheaper gasket. All the TSB's blamed the head gasket leaks on techs scratching the surfaces of the heads and block by not using plastic scrapers to remove the gasket. That was b/s, the original gaskets leaked before a tech touched them.

Have you seen the instruction video for surface prep for parts sealed with TA-357?

The only realistic way to achieve it is to either have the vehicle sit and drip dry for 24 hours or longer, or to remove the engine and turn it upside down when doing an oil pan.

 

[19Walt93]

Have you seen the instruction video for surface prep for parts sealed with TA-357?

The only realistic way to achieve it is to either have the vehicle sit and drip dry for 24 hours or longer, or to remove the engine and turn it upside down when doing an oil pan.

I haven't, I retired in 17. They'd probably say I'm old school if I suggested releasing a gasket to be used for repairs after their factory sealer didn't hold up.

 

[adsm08]

I haven't, I retired in 17. They'd probably say I'm old school if I suggested releasing a gasket to be used for repairs after their factory sealer didn't hold up.

What gets me is that in mid-18 the 2.7s went from a silicone seal to a gasket and the older ones don't get retrofit.

Basically you can have no oil or residue on the sealing surface or the seal won't hold. To do this you have to remove the old pan, scrape the old sealer off (plastic blades only of course) and allow to drip dry for at least 8 hours. Then you spray the whole thing down with brake cleaner (only Motorcraft, of course). Then you have to wipe it down with engine shampoo, use the prep wipes, allow to dry for at least 2 minutes (without letting oil drip out of the block back onto the sealing surface) and get your pan w/ sealer up in there. It is supposed to be set up enough to handle oil in 90 minutes.


The only way I have had any luck getting this stuff to hold on an oil pan is to get the pan down before I leave Thursday, allow it to drip dry over night, and most of Friday, get the pan up before I leave Friday night, and leave it sit dry over the weekend. Anything less and I have the vehicle back in less than 1000 miles, usually leaking worse than when it first came in.

 

[19Walt93]

It's cheaper to build on the assembly line and no thought is given to repairing one after a customer owns it. When the 3.8 was introduced in 82 the only gaskets it had were head gaskets, everything else was RTV. They came back in droves with valve cover leaks so Ford eventually released gaskets to fix it, but a warranty claim would generate a call ticket for the gaskets that were removed- even though there were no gaskets. For a while we'd use carb clean on the surfaces until we saw that it prevented the silicone from sealing. Brake clean worked. We used Wurth brake clean for a long time and then switched to Castle Shop Solv that I still buy to use at home. My techs didn't like the Motorcraft stuff.