• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Doesnt wanna idle when timing is set to 10-12. Only idles happy when advanced.


MadMax_636

Active Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
520
Reaction score
47
Points
28
Age
28
Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.8 V6
Engine Size
2.8L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
However much it goes up when I get my fat ass out.
Total Drop
How much it goes down when my fat ass gets in.
Tire Size
Dry rot and old
Having to rev it after stopping hot is pretty normal with a carbed engine and the ethanol fuel we run now. The carb sits there and gets heat soaked and the ethanol fuel percolates up and drips into the engine, making it a little rich on a hot start.

On the dying when coming to a stop, get it warmed up and idling normally and then pull the vacuum advance on the distributor and put your finger over the hose. It should not change anything. If it does, you need to find the correct ported vacuum port or turn the idle speed down. If you want to experiment with it, take the vacuum off the distributor and plug it. Tune the idle and the mixture screws and then drive it like that and see if it tries to stall. If it's ok, you know it's the vacuum advance causing problems. You really do not need to run the vacuum advance, it's only there for fuel mileage, not performance.

Thanks, I dont turn vac advanced since the dizzy I got (replacement after my first one died/fell apart on me) never worked. I used a vac hang pump to see when it would start to move... It took 200 inches for it to move just a tiny bit.

Also, the hard starting will happen even after shutting off for like 30 seconds. Like after shutting off and then bumping it back over. It take a small blip to clear it out. I knew a good bit about the fuel boiling and causing it to be flooded out.

For the coming to a stop and it's wanting to die. It happens sometimes. My first though was either too high or too low of a float.


Not to seem like an ass or a know it all. Since im clearly not as Im still asking questions and wanting to learn. I know a good bit about carbs but asking questions is what I love doing since it means learning and learning is something I enjoy haha

Just wanted to state that.
 


ford4wd08

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2018
Messages
1,249
Reaction score
510
Points
113
Location
Alcoa, TN
Engine Type
2.8 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I was looking for your thread. I couldnt find it.
Started off with the 2150A carb and the choke, but a some good info in this thread about tuning the 2.8 in general.

 

franklin2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
3,351
Reaction score
1,712
Points
113
Location
Virginia
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
Thanks, I dont turn vac advanced since the dizzy I got (replacement after my first one died/fell apart on me) never worked. I used a vac hang pump to see when it would start to move... It took 200 inches for it to move just a tiny bit.

Also, the hard starting will happen even after shutting off for like 30 seconds. Like after shutting off and then bumping it back over. It take a small blip to clear it out. I knew a good bit about the fuel boiling and causing it to be flooded out.

For the coming to a stop and it's wanting to die. It happens sometimes. My first though was either too high or too low of a float.


Not to seem like an ass or a know it all. Since im clearly not as Im still asking questions and wanting to learn. I know a good bit about carbs but asking questions is what I love doing since it means learning and learning is something I enjoy haha

Just wanted to state that.
Well, a high fuel level in the bowl will cause it to percolate even easier during a hot shutdown. And a high level will spill fuel over into the engine when you hit the brakes hard, making it temporarily flood the engine.
 

superj

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
3,031
Reaction score
2,503
Points
113
Location
corpus christi, texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
ranger edge
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3 liters of tire smoking power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
none
Total Drop
none
Tire Size
235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
Did you ever open the carb to check the float setting? And did you tune with a vacuum gage or just by ear?

If you want it perfect, use the vacuum gage and tune your distributor and carb.


Each engine is different so the vacuum gage will tune your distributor and carb to your engine.
 

19Walt93

Well-Known Member
Ford Technician
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
4,475
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
Canaan,NH
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Ron talked about checking the timing marks and making a new one if TDC is off. If the mark has moved that means the pulley has turned on the hub and ought to be replaced. You should be using the spark port on the right side of the carb for the vacuum advance and the advance should start coming in before you see 5"or so. The hose should also be disconnected when setting the timing. Set the mixture screws with the engine at operating temp using either a tach or a vacuum gauge to achieve lean best idle. That means as lean as possible without seeing rpm/vac drop. I hope your carb is no bigger than a 1.12, 1.08 would be best. If enough is good, more is better, and too much is just right sounds good but it isn't how to pick out a carb or a cam.
 

franklin2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
3,351
Reaction score
1,712
Points
113
Location
Virginia
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
Ron talked about checking the timing marks and making a new one if TDC is off. If the mark has moved that means the pulley has turned on the hub and ought to be replaced. You should be using the spark port on the right side of the carb for the vacuum advance and the advance should start coming in before you see 5"or so. The hose should also be disconnected when setting the timing. Set the mixture screws with the engine at operating temp using either a tach or a vacuum gauge to achieve lean best idle. That means as lean as possible without seeing rpm/vac drop. I hope your carb is no bigger than a 1.12, 1.08 would be best. If enough is good, more is better, and too much is just right sounds good but it isn't how to pick out a carb or a cam.
Only way to check to see if the marks are off is to make a piston stop that screws into the sparkplug hole on #1 plug.
 

19Walt93

Well-Known Member
Ford Technician
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
4,475
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
Canaan,NH
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Only way to check to see if the marks are off is to make a piston stop that screws into the sparkplug hole on #1 plug.
I stick a screwdriver in the plug hole and rock the engine back and forth when it's near TDC to check the marks. Making a psiton stop is probably easier and may be more accurate.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top