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Doesnt wanna idle when timing is set to 10-12. Only idles happy when advanced.


MadMax_636

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Having to rev it after stopping hot is pretty normal with a carbed engine and the ethanol fuel we run now. The carb sits there and gets heat soaked and the ethanol fuel percolates up and drips into the engine, making it a little rich on a hot start.

On the dying when coming to a stop, get it warmed up and idling normally and then pull the vacuum advance on the distributor and put your finger over the hose. It should not change anything. If it does, you need to find the correct ported vacuum port or turn the idle speed down. If you want to experiment with it, take the vacuum off the distributor and plug it. Tune the idle and the mixture screws and then drive it like that and see if it tries to stall. If it's ok, you know it's the vacuum advance causing problems. You really do not need to run the vacuum advance, it's only there for fuel mileage, not performance.

Thanks, I dont turn vac advanced since the dizzy I got (replacement after my first one died/fell apart on me) never worked. I used a vac hang pump to see when it would start to move... It took 200 inches for it to move just a tiny bit.

Also, the hard starting will happen even after shutting off for like 30 seconds. Like after shutting off and then bumping it back over. It take a small blip to clear it out. I knew a good bit about the fuel boiling and causing it to be flooded out.

For the coming to a stop and it's wanting to die. It happens sometimes. My first though was either too high or too low of a float.


Not to seem like an ass or a know it all. Since im clearly not as Im still asking questions and wanting to learn. I know a good bit about carbs but asking questions is what I love doing since it means learning and learning is something I enjoy haha

Just wanted to state that.
 


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ford4wd08

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I was looking for your thread. I couldnt find it.
Started off with the 2150A carb and the choke, but a some good info in this thread about tuning the 2.8 in general.

 

franklin2

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Thanks, I dont turn vac advanced since the dizzy I got (replacement after my first one died/fell apart on me) never worked. I used a vac hang pump to see when it would start to move... It took 200 inches for it to move just a tiny bit.

Also, the hard starting will happen even after shutting off for like 30 seconds. Like after shutting off and then bumping it back over. It take a small blip to clear it out. I knew a good bit about the fuel boiling and causing it to be flooded out.

For the coming to a stop and it's wanting to die. It happens sometimes. My first though was either too high or too low of a float.


Not to seem like an ass or a know it all. Since im clearly not as Im still asking questions and wanting to learn. I know a good bit about carbs but asking questions is what I love doing since it means learning and learning is something I enjoy haha

Just wanted to state that.
Well, a high fuel level in the bowl will cause it to percolate even easier during a hot shutdown. And a high level will spill fuel over into the engine when you hit the brakes hard, making it temporarily flood the engine.
 

superj

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Did you ever open the carb to check the float setting? And did you tune with a vacuum gage or just by ear?

If you want it perfect, use the vacuum gage and tune your distributor and carb.


Each engine is different so the vacuum gage will tune your distributor and carb to your engine.
 

19Walt93

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Ron talked about checking the timing marks and making a new one if TDC is off. If the mark has moved that means the pulley has turned on the hub and ought to be replaced. You should be using the spark port on the right side of the carb for the vacuum advance and the advance should start coming in before you see 5"or so. The hose should also be disconnected when setting the timing. Set the mixture screws with the engine at operating temp using either a tach or a vacuum gauge to achieve lean best idle. That means as lean as possible without seeing rpm/vac drop. I hope your carb is no bigger than a 1.12, 1.08 would be best. If enough is good, more is better, and too much is just right sounds good but it isn't how to pick out a carb or a cam.
 

franklin2

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Ron talked about checking the timing marks and making a new one if TDC is off. If the mark has moved that means the pulley has turned on the hub and ought to be replaced. You should be using the spark port on the right side of the carb for the vacuum advance and the advance should start coming in before you see 5"or so. The hose should also be disconnected when setting the timing. Set the mixture screws with the engine at operating temp using either a tach or a vacuum gauge to achieve lean best idle. That means as lean as possible without seeing rpm/vac drop. I hope your carb is no bigger than a 1.12, 1.08 would be best. If enough is good, more is better, and too much is just right sounds good but it isn't how to pick out a carb or a cam.
Only way to check to see if the marks are off is to make a piston stop that screws into the sparkplug hole on #1 plug.
 

19Walt93

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Only way to check to see if the marks are off is to make a piston stop that screws into the sparkplug hole on #1 plug.
I stick a screwdriver in the plug hole and rock the engine back and forth when it's near TDC to check the marks. Making a psiton stop is probably easier and may be more accurate.
 


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