- Nov 7, 2019
- Reaction score
- Vehicle Year
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 2.8 V6
- Engine Size
- 2WD / 4WD
- Total Lift
- However much it goes up when I get my fat ass out.
- Total Drop
- How much it goes down when my fat ass gets in.
- Tire Size
- Dry rot and old
Having to rev it after stopping hot is pretty normal with a carbed engine and the ethanol fuel we run now. The carb sits there and gets heat soaked and the ethanol fuel percolates up and drips into the engine, making it a little rich on a hot start.
On the dying when coming to a stop, get it warmed up and idling normally and then pull the vacuum advance on the distributor and put your finger over the hose. It should not change anything. If it does, you need to find the correct ported vacuum port or turn the idle speed down. If you want to experiment with it, take the vacuum off the distributor and plug it. Tune the idle and the mixture screws and then drive it like that and see if it tries to stall. If it's ok, you know it's the vacuum advance causing problems. You really do not need to run the vacuum advance, it's only there for fuel mileage, not performance.
Thanks, I dont turn vac advanced since the dizzy I got (replacement after my first one died/fell apart on me) never worked. I used a vac hang pump to see when it would start to move... It took 200 inches for it to move just a tiny bit.
Also, the hard starting will happen even after shutting off for like 30 seconds. Like after shutting off and then bumping it back over. It take a small blip to clear it out. I knew a good bit about the fuel boiling and causing it to be flooded out.
For the coming to a stop and it's wanting to die. It happens sometimes. My first though was either too high or too low of a float.
Not to seem like an ass or a know it all. Since im clearly not as Im still asking questions and wanting to learn. I know a good bit about carbs but asking questions is what I love doing since it means learning and learning is something I enjoy haha
Just wanted to state that.