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Dodge 2500 Brake MC doesn’t fit 1st gen?


bbbc3

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So I came across a couple of post/videos of early rangers swapping to a 99 dodge 2500 gasser brake master cylinder as an upgrade. It was described as a direct bolt in. These were 90-91 rangers.
I bought the Dodge MC and bolted it in but my brake lines are different thread sizes. Are 1st gen ranger brake lines different than 2nd gen rangers?
 


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Brake fitting adapters exist...
 

bbbc3

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I searched and could not find an adapter. I decided to just cut and re-flare the ends because I thought that would be simple and quick. That’s when I ran into my second problem. 1st gen Ranger master cylinders accept inverted flare brake lines. 86+ Rangers accept ISO bubble flared lines. I bought the wrong flaring tool and flare nuts. ??‍♂ Bubble flared lines need bubble flare nuts. This may be common knowledge to many people but I did not know this and I hope to save other people frustration.

What I have discovered so far that may be useful to others:
1st gen Rangers (83-85) have inverted double flare ends at the master cylinder.
Nut sizes - 9/16”-18 (front) and 7/16”-24 (back)
3/16” brake line.

2nd gen Rangers (86-?) have ISO bubbled flared ends at the master cylinder.
Nut sizes - M10x1.0 and M12x1.0
3/16” brake lines.
This is the same as the ‘99 Dodge 2500 gasser brake master cylinder that is considered an upgrade for the Ranger.

As soon as I finish this swap I’ll post more information that may be helpful.
 

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Thanks for posting your findings. It will help someone in the future.
 

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Interesting that there is variation in 1st Gen trucks. I believe '89 up to some point is also different... I tried using an '88 master cylinder in my old '89 and ran into the same deal with the fittings.
 

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How is it an upgrade?
 

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How is it an upgrade?
People have used the Dodge 2500 as well as the '85 F-350 master cylinder because it has a larger piston. Below is a link to the dodge 2500 master cylinder.
It is a good option for those who are running solid axles with larger rotors. It also works well for those that have converted to rotors in the rear.

I have swapped in a Dana 35 with Dana 44 knuckles and its larger brake components. My master cylinder was leaking at it's mounting point and my break booster failed so i thought this would be an easy swap.

Description and step by step for Dodge 2500 gas master cylinder on a ranger.
http://midwestnomads.com/2015/08/the-lone-ranger-master-cylinder-swap/

Description and step by step for F-350 master cylinder.
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-f-350-master-cylinder-upgrade/

Video:
 

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People have used the Dodge 2500 as well as the '85 F-350 master cylinder because it has a larger piston. Below is a link to the dodge 2500 master cylinder.
It is a good option for those who are running solid axles with larger rotors. It also works well for those that have converted to rotors in the rear.

I have swapped in a Dana 35 with Dana 44 knuckles and its larger brake components. My master cylinder was leaking at it's mounting point and my break booster failed so i thought this would be an easy swap.

Description and step by step for Dodge 2500 gas master cylinder on a ranger.
http://midwestnomads.com/2015/08/the-lone-ranger-master-cylinder-swap/

Description and step by step for F-350 master cylinder.
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-f-350-master-cylinder-upgrade/

Video:
OH, OK. Sorry if the question seemed dumb.
 

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OH, OK. Sorry if the question seemed dumb.
No not at all! I had the same question when I started. I hope this thread will be a good source for anyone looking into this swap, mainly the 1st gen guys.
 

bbbc3

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Update:
I have run the dodge master cylinder long enough to review. In my honest opinion this was not worth the upgrade. There isn’t a noticeable difference. Or at least enough of a difference to go through the headache of re-flaring brake lines. A new OEM master cylinder would have given the same result.
Now this is a review for an 85 ranger with stock rear axle and Dana 35 ttb front axle with d44 outters and brakes. 32” tires.
Results may vary with different year rangers, axles, and brakes.
 

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this is an excellent topic and lesson. thank you for taking the time.



there are many things i consider bolt on and these sort of issues are just par for the course and i feel bad when things i see as trivial are stoppers for the uninitiated.. so i see what your saying.

the clutch lines ect are the same way when your upgrading mazda trans ect...you have to adapt/hybrid stuff to get them to work from square light trucks to the rest of the ghey ones they made after 88, that only sissies would drive..

unless i happen to be driving it...that is different.:unsure:

pressure, volume and piston area combined with pad area ect ect ect are factors, and highly misunderstood....study these knowns before taking stuff apart.


as you have learned, bigger components being better is not a rule or the case in your case....



even know your brakes are mismatched currently, i am gathering your ok with the performance?...the stock ranger master usually feels weak to me in any case but did stop my one ton brakes ok-ish..even with 44 inch tires. so theres that.


the difference between explorer front and rear brakes and first gen small rear brakes are huge....but you dont need to swap masters.




for those looking to improve braking...looking at fittings is step one if you want to reuse lines or go away from a known system.. they do change even mid model year in many applications depending on options...rear-abs----4 wheel abs----non abs-can use different lines and masters...on any given model even of the same year...say a dodge car application with a known good master...may have 4 masters ...so which one is the good one?? this is knowable ahead of time but takes research.

generally every few years i replace all the lines due to salt so i just build what i need. i know many...hell most people would rather hang themselves then make brake lines....myself included depending on make/model... so wanting a true bolt in solution is definitely worth noting.

my current system is unbalanced...its a gm hydroboost on ford one ton brakes.

and i would describe it as a bolt in. because i bolted it in.

after i made an adapter for the firewall.....to accommodate a carefully reclocked stroke ratio, that was specifically chosen because it would work within the ability of the oem pedal hanger and firewall space..... and made all new custom lines.


but...it was a bolt in.....so was the humvee engine. :D....really.!.!
 
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