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Do I need to replace cam chain adjuster ?


G8orFord

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You can prime the oil pump with a drill. I did it. I forget what size socket I found that fit the oil pump drive (close enough, possibly a Torx socket too), but that and a longer 1/4" extension and a drill is all I used. You have to remove the dummy cover where the distributor used to be. It still works the same way as if it had a distributor. I had my motor on a stand with the valve covers off. So I watched the cam lube lines until I got good flow. Would have liked to have had a gauge on the oil pressure port, but didn't have the correct adapter. Kinda regretting that now.
 


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DILLARD000

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You can prime the oil pump with a drill. I did it. I forget what size socket I found that fit the oil pump drive (close enough, possibly a Torx socket too), but that and a longer 1/4" extension and a drill is all I used. You have to remove the dummy cover where the distributor used to be. It still works the same way as if it had a distributor. I had my motor on a stand with the valve covers off. So I watched the cam lube lines until I got good flow. Would have liked to have had a gauge on the oil pressure port, but didn't have the correct adapter. Kinda regretting that now.
Can you drive OilPump on a V6~4.0L~SOHC with a Drill+Socket\TorxBit?
Imteresting?
 

G8orFord

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Just the right size to touch the ground.

DILLARD000

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Yes, you can.
Any possibility\thoughts of permamently installing an electric motor to drive the OilPump prior to ColdStarts as an Engine PreLubricator?
Appropriate interlocking relay controls would no doubt be needed.
Just a wild ass idea; this my be impractical compared to other ways to prelubricate.
 

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Well my son is getting ready to pull the motor and we looked at the cam chain guides and the one I thought was bad looked fine but the one on the back wasn't visible. If I can download pictures I will show what it looks like. It worked one is of my motor and the other one is of the remanufactered motor.
 

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DILLARD000

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Rear right timing guide is definitely trash. If your going to re-use\re-build that motor
replace that broken rear right cassette & also best replace front left cassette, inspect other timing components & replace as needed.
Also likely have broken plastic guide pieces scattered &\or fallen into oil pan, so drop pan & clean oil pump screen.
Either engine old or reman, renew the 2 OilPressurized TimingTensioners & rear OilSeal; consider a new OilPump.
Might as well replace junk Plastic ThermoStatHousing with a Aluminum ThermoStatHousing while you're there.
 
Last edited:

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The second picture is of a remanufactered motor that is going in this weekend. I already have a new waterpump, aluminum thermostat housing, new radiator and my son ordered a new clutch because it was showing some wear. The old motor has 248000 miles, my confusion is it sounded like the front guide was the one making the noise.
 

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I have another question, the reman motor came with the tensioners in how long can I safely run those tensioners if they are aftermarket? I don't want to take any chances but I don't have the extra money right now to replace them. How can I tell who made the tensioners ?
 

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I have another question, the reman motor came with the tensioners in how long can I safely run those tensioners if they are aftermarket? I don't want to take any chances but I don't have the extra money right now to replace them. How can I tell who made the tensioners ?
I'd run them until preventative 70,000 miles time change or you start getting a chain rattle at start up. They in there, aren't leaking, and aren't give you a problem right now. So, why change them?
 

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Just a update, my remanufactered motor is in and working on the 500 mile break-in. Got a part time job and commute is only about 8 blocks so it will take a while to get to the 500 mile point. Nice and quiet at startup and no oil leaks. 😀
 

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Why don't you pull the tensioners you bought for the old motor and swap them out with the new motor. Those were Ford products, correct?
 

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Just a update, my remanufactered motor is in and working on the 500 mile break-in. Got a part time job and commute is only about 8 blocks so it will take a while to get to the 500 mile point. Nice and quiet at startup and no oil leaks. 😀
Take it on some 30+ minute highway runs. During break in you shouldn't be only doing short little stop and go trips, it's very hard on the engine.
 

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Just a update, my remanufactered motor is in and working on the 500 mile break-in. Got a part time job and commute is only about 8 blocks so it will take a while to get to the 500 mile point. Nice and quiet at startup and no oil leaks. 😀
Make sure you make some highway drives somewhere too. It's best if you can vary the speed as much as possible during break in. So, local driving is fine but get some highway driving in there as well.
 

Mike92STX

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Why don't you pull the tensioners you bought for the old motor and swap them out with the new motor. Those were Ford products, correct?
I asked the same question in a post earlier and sgtsandman said it wasn't necessary so I will change them in 70000 miles or when I hear a rattle at startup. I might change them earlier just for piece of mind.
For the 2 telling me to drive at highway speeds, I have taken it out for 1/2 hour or 45 minute drives were I going 50 - 60 miles an hour. My commute to work is only 8 tenths of a mile so it doesn't help any.
 

Mike92STX

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I finally got the 500 miles on and changed the oil, I dragged a magnet in the oil in the drain pan and didn't find any metal ? I heard it's not unusual to have some after the break-in. I unintentionally switched it to NAPAs synthetic blend not sure if that's any good so I'm going to do some research and might switch to something else on the next oil change. My part time job is delivering parts for NAPA and I get most everything ar cost. The motor is nice and quite, the only noise is a heat shield that rattles sometimes. Now I have a motor that is as good as new so if I take car of it , should out live me 😀
 


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