Do I need to replace all 4 of these tie rod / joints? Can’t I just clean and re-boot them properly?

[eightynine4x4]

If you can find a socket or a short length of pipe that fits over the top part of the joint and sits on the ledge, you should be able to press it out and reuse it. It doesn't look like the joint was pressed in straight and square, that may be why you can't get the clip on. If you do need to grind a little materiall off the steering knuckle it shouldn't hurt anything but try repositioning the joint first.

Thanks! It actually was pressed in square believe it or not! In the second pic you can see it is seated flush all the way around. Shadows from the lip make it difficult to see, but if you were peer into the lip, the edge of the joint is sitting flush inside the full circle around.

This knuckle was manufactured not flat at that surface, big time. That angle you see in relation to the ball joint is literally the bend of the shape of the knuckle. I’ll need to grind away i suppose.

I’ll try to rig up a pipe to work as the receiving “cup” for the large stud side of the joint to go into.

 

[Jazzer]

When you get it out, it might be worthwhile to closely check its dimensions against the old one. Also pay attention to the seating area, the surface rust may need to be ground down to bright metal. Good Luck!

 

[eightynine4x4]

When you get it out, it might be worthwhile to closely check its dimensions against the old one. Also pay attention to the seating area, the surface rust may need to be ground down to bright metal. Good Luck!

Thanks!
I was able to press it back out, and as expected there aren’t any issues with the flush mounting. I had previously already gone through all surfaces with a flat head and a wire brush and removed any buildup. What’s left would be microscopic. I could keep polishing inside that little recessed ridge but it wouldn’t gain me the 0.5-0.75mm that i need on the ring side.
So i think I’ll be grinding that extra material off on the ring side of knuckle.

Adding more pics from before i pressed it out, just in case someone in future goes a little bonkers for the same reason. It does seem this knuckle has quite a slope to the ring side of this ball joint.
I’m sure that some ball joints would be a bit longer and the ring would be in the clear. But for whatever reason the TRW upper joints are super close clearance. The other upper one was very very close but i was able to get the ring in just barely.
I do still have the old ball joints and I’ll compare them when i get a moment to do that.

 

[Jazzer]

If you only need to grind enough of the fat part of the knuckle slope enough to get the width of the snap ring in, heck, go for it. Shouldn't be much trouble.

 

[eightynine4x4]

If you only need to grind enough of the fat part of the knuckle slope enough to get the width of the snap ring in, heck, go for it. Shouldn't be much trouble.

Yep just finished. Done and done, worked great.
Just a 5 minute dremel job and bob’s your uncle.
Seated perfectly flush again.
Second pic has snap ring in place.
After this i cleaned everything up and added the boots.
All ball joints are now installed.
I also installed a missing knuckle stud. The ones that go into the spindle. One of mine was gone. It wasn’t easy to figure out the replacement part because nobody seems to sell them nor does anybody seem to sell whole knuckles. But Dorman Part # 610-308 fits 100% perfectly. It seems to be identical in all sizing as the OEM studs in the knuckle. Just putting that here in case it helps someone in future. It’s 10MM X 1.25MM threading. I’m unsure of the spec’d length. But that Dorman part is spot on the same.

 

[eightynine4x4]

I’m preparing the shafts, and wanted to confirm that I am getting things correct with the seals.
This is the SBK2 kit i got, according to the Dana 28 rebuild page on this site. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/dana-28-dana-35-repair-rebuild/

More Information for TIMKEN SBK2

In this kit along with the spindle bearing/seal is a large seal, and the only thing that i can figure out that it would be for is the axle. But when comparing to the old seal, which you can see in the pic, the design difference is pretty significant. There is the same center metal ring piece though, so it makes me think that this is the only possibility for this seal.

Does this look correct? And do i have it mounted the correct direction on axle?
I included the old seal taken off of my good spindle, as well as the spindle that still has the old seal on it.

Also, on a side note, the Dana 28 page, the “Rotor Seal” part# is listed as 8321. This is a typo, right? Should be 8312?

And I assume the 8312 is the “wheel seal“ on Rockauto but is called the “rotor seal” on the rebuild page?

 

[eightynine4x4]

Here’s something else I’m wondering..

This is peering in the drivers side. I assume there is suppose to be a seal in there. Or maybe there is one there but it’s coated with gunk. Anyways I’m planning to drop the front diff, so will have access.

Is that this?

More Information for TIMKEN 710065

Seems Rockauto has the left/right naming backwards, just given the different shapes of them.

And maybe this is the right one?

More Information for TIMKEN 3543

Those two part#’s are on that Dana 28 rebuild article just linked, and again the sides are flipped. So i think maybe RA has them reversed.

 

[Shran]

Rotor seal = wheel seal but nobody calls them rotor seals. They do go on the back side of the rotor though.

I believe you have the axle shaft set up correctly. Most that I see just need the rubber wiper replaced, the rest is fine, but refer to the picture I sent you of that axle shaft and there is a metal ring on yours that is not on mine. I believe that's the piece that the wiper rides on.

Re: your second post about the inside of the beam - There is a seal there and it looks like it's leaking... now is a good time to replace it but you have to remove the center section from the axle beam to get at it. There is another seal on the other side... do them both. These things are a can of worms once you start tearing into them. I believe those two seals you referenced are the ones you need for the center section axle seals.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Rotor seal = wheel seal but nobody calls them rotor seals. They do go on the back side of the rotor though.

I believe you have the axle shaft set up correctly. Most that I see just need the rubber wiper replaced, the rest is fine, but refer to the picture I sent you of that axle shaft and there is a metal ring on yours that is not on mine. I believe that's the piece that the wiper rides on.

Re: your second post about the inside of the beam - There is a seal there and it looks like it's leaking... now is a good time to replace it but you have to remove the center section from the axle beam to get at it. There is another seal on the other side... do them both. These things are a can of worms once you start tearing into them. I believe those two seals you referenced are the ones you need for the center section axle seals.

Oh I hadn’t noticed that ring! But after looking at it a bunch more, i think maybe that metal ring IS the seal, or the back half of it rather, and that my old seal sitting there on table is just the front section and is in pieces and the metal part is still stuck on the shaft on the left. I stacked them up together and it really looks identical to the new complete seal, just that the metal ring section of new one is a tad wider in diameter than the old one. But that could be erosion.

The metal part is pretty welded to the axle shaft though. I’ll need to thoroughly juice it up and then chisel and pry away. But once i get it off, it should look just like your Spicer one and these new complete seals should just pop right on. I think.

When you say center section from the axle beam, are you just meaning the front diff? I’m planning to drop the front diff to change the center U Joint.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_28.pdf

So in this diagram, when you say there is a seal on “both sides”, are you referring to #32 (drivers side) and #68 (passenger side)? And maybe these are the parts https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572292&cc=1137642&pt=1852&jsn=3190 and https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118675&cc=1137642&pt=1852&jsn=3188 just mentioned above?

 

[Jazzer]

Can’t help you on that one except to bring it up top. Plenty of guys here with that setup.

 

[SenorNoob]

IDK if the D28 is the same or not, but for the D35 there are a couple different versions of the seal that goes on the outer stub shaft just behind the spindle. They look pretty similar to your pictures. In the case of the D35 either one will work AS LONG AS you use all the parts from one style. If not you might the stub shaft is too tight to get the c-clip on. (Or is loose depending on what combination incorrect parts is used.) Use everything that came in the new kit and you'll be fine though.

 

[eightynine4x4]

IDK if the D28 is the same or not, but for the D35 there are a couple different versions of the seal that goes on the outer stub shaft just behind the spindle. They look pretty similar to your pictures. In the case of the D35 either one will work AS LONG AS you use all the parts from one style. If not you might the stub shaft is too tight to get the c-clip on. (Or is loose depending on what combination incorrect parts is used.) Use everything that came in the new kit and you'll be fine though.

I’m pretty sure what i have will work, although I haven’t tested the mating of the piece that sits around the outer shaft, to the seal/bearing inside the spindle. But those three come as a kit, so like you’re saying there’s no reason they wouldn’t mate up.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Got the front diff out. I don’t know much about gear health but this looks pretty decent to me. There are no tiny shards inside, nor in the oil that came out.

Also got the front drive shaft out. Had to sacrifice one strap from the u joint at front yoke, so will need to order a pair of straps. The bolt was just un workable, so I bent it away.

So status:
My ball joints are done.
Have all replacement steering rods in hand ready to install.
Have all u joints and seals in hand for the front axles, and have old u joints out so am ready to start re assembling the front axles.

Now I just need to get those two seals for left and right side of diff, and also 3 more u joints for whatever size my front drive shaft is. Some resources so it’s the same u joints as my front axles, but others say I have to measure the yoke diameter of drive shaft.

 

[bobbywalter]

i usualy drill the front yoke out and use conventional ford/jeep 1310 straps

U-Bolt Kit for 1310 U-Joint ALL69015

U-Bolt Kit for 1310 U-Joint ALL69015 on sale now plus all the racing parts you need at Allstar Performance

allstarperformance.com

they will be in help section most parts stores cheap..... screw that stupid factory bad idea crap.....drill em out.

 

[eightynine4x4]

i usualy drill the front yoke out and use conventional ford/jeep 1310 straps

U-Bolt Kit for 1310 U-Joint ALL69015

U-Bolt Kit for 1310 U-Joint ALL69015 on sale now plus all the racing parts you need at Allstar Performance

allstarperformance.com

they will be in help section most parts stores cheap..... screw that stupid factory bad idea crap.....drill em out.

im actually just talking about the tiny straps that hold a u joint to Cardon / yoke ! Had to bend one off