Distributor with Octane Rod

[gaz]

Hello,

I am working out the bugs in a rebuilt 2.9L with approximately 7kmi on it but it sat for a number of years as did the 87 Ranger (4x4, 5 sp) that it now resides in.

After starting and getting up to temp it is running rough, popping and I suspect not firing completely. About the time the Tstat opens the second time it will stall and then when I attempt to restart, it will only click/click/click.

I am getting ready to put in a spare TFI Ignition Module when I notice that one of my spare distributors has the Octane Rod. This makes me wonder if I was supposed to be using the Octane Rod version verses the non octane rod version?

 

[franklin2]

I would not worry about the octane rod. It was just another way Ford used to adjust the timing.

 

[RonD]

The "click, click, click" could mean alternator is OFF, or not working, and that can cause poor spark
Test battery volts, key OFF
12.8volt is new battery
12.5v is 3 year old battery
12.3v is 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for new battery

12.2v or less is drained or bad battery

With engine running battery should show over 14volts, but under 15volts, alternator is working
After 10min of running, and still idling, battery should show, 13.5v to 13.8v, voltage regulator is working

If you see under 13volts with engine running alternator is not On or working

 

[gaz]

franklin2,

Thank you, though this still troubles me as I am considering swapping distributors.

RonD,

I have suspected that my alternator was not working this entire process. My battery measures 12.65v when fully charged. It is not new but I am all but certain that it isn't getting charged by the alternator.

I have a new-in-box hi output alternator that I had bought for the 87 BII, I thought that I would just use that if needed but upon inspecting it, to my surprise, it has a 3 wire coupling vs the Ranger's 2 wire.

I charged up the battery, the click/click/click stopped but now it will not start (it will not start on starting fluid either). I have lost my spark.

 

[Bgunner]

Just an FYI the click-click-click is a sure sign of bad battery cable connection or weak/bad battery. It is the solenoid getting enough just to throw out the gear but as the motor draws more juice than is available so it draws it back in and repeat giving the rapid click-click-click sound.

loss of spark is a separate issue from the click-click-click.

 

[gaz]

Bgunner,

Thank you for the feedback.

It turns out that the black connector pictured to the left was not plugged into the alternator. Unfortunately, I think that it is for the A/C cut out.

I have a second NIB 150a alternator which doesn't have those connectors, it has the white/gray only. I was hoping to use it but it looks like I'm going to learn by trying.

I am going to install the 150a, if that does help, I'm off to the battery Depot.

 

[Bgunner]

I thought a saw a right up in the tech section on upgrading the alternator to a larger one. I'm off to the tech section to try to find where I was reading it.

EDIT: sadly there is no write up on the 2.9's for upgrading the alternator. this article does cover some info on the 2.9L alternators though. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-alternators/

 

[franklin2]

The plugs for the different alternators may be different, but the wire colors are usually the same and have the same function.

There is usually a lightgreen red. This comes from the dash light and the ignition switch and brings the alternator online to charge. Look for a terminal that is labelled "I", that is where the lightgreen/red goes.

There is usually a yellow/white wire. This is what the regulator inside the alternator uses to monitor the voltage in the wiring which tells the alternator how much to charge. It usually hooks to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Look for a terminal on the alternator labelled "A" for this wire.

Your original alternator probably has two fatter black/orange wires. These are the output wires that go from the alternator the battery +. These go to a terminal usually labelled "Bat". Your new alternator probably has a stud with a nut for this connection. If you want to use your original wires for this, you will have to cut the plug off and tie the two black/orange wires together and put them both under the stud.

Most of them also have a white/black jumper wire on the alternator. Just leave this in place.

 

[gaz]

It turns out that the alternator that was shipped is the incorrect model; it is for a 1996 F150 with 4.9L v8.

I remember there being 120a and a larger unit. I am hopeful that a hi output Explorer unit may work, should the need arises.

I took my alternator to The O'Reilley's and the bench tested it twice @ VERY good. So I bought a new Interstate MTP65 HD battery and installed it with the EEC and ICM that were in it at the start of this mess. I had reason to believe that my Accel TFI coil wasn't working at it's full potential, so I installed my Jacob's Pro Street CD system to get as much spark as possible.

First twist fired right up, still not 100% but the best it's been since getting it going. I believe that the slight amount of residue in the adapted BroncoII fuel tank and the old Ranger fuel lines are the primary current fault.

In the morning I am going to bring it up to temp, set the base timing and add 6 more gls of fuel, then take another short test drive.

In summary, unfortunately, I am uncertain exactly which component cleared the "air" but I am greatful for the expert guidance that you fine comrades have offered.

I have a couple issues yet to resolve but I will leave them out of this discussion as they are non related systems.