Dealing with a Wiring Harness in Not-So-Good-Condition

[Bronco648]

Ranger: 1985 RCLB, 2.8 V6, auto, RWD

I'm in the process of a Duraspark conversion and trying to figure out what parts of the harness can go and what's needed to make the truck operate.

Several individual wires are missing insulation and some connectors are in poor condition.

1 - Is there a source for wiring with the correct colors and tracers/hashes/dashes?

2 - How about a source for the correct connectors?

For instance, the neutral safety switch for the A4LD has wiring exposed right were the insulation meets the connector. I'm not sure if there's a way to fix that and that connector is kind of unique.

I'm hoping my only resource isn't another harness out of an early Ranger. But, I'm thinking it might be.

TIA.

 

[Ranger850]

I have used liquid tape in situations like you mentioned about the Neutral Safety Switch.

 

[Bronco648]

I was thinking that might not be a bad idea. What concerns me is the strength/weakness of the wire strands themselves. Not sure how much they've been worked over the years.

How did you clean everything so the liquid electrical tape would stick? Brake/Carb cleaner?

 

[Ranger850]

I was thinking that might not be a bad idea. What concerns me is the strength/weakness of the wire strands themselves. Not sure how much they've been worked over the years.

How did you clean everything so the liquid electrical tape would stick? Bake/Carb cleaner?

Used the battery Corrosion Cleaner stuff in this kit. Then alcohol or Brake cleaner, something to flash dry the area. THEN the liquid tape. If I could, I would try to get some heat shrink on there to hold it all in place.

 

[Bronco648]

If I could, I would try to get some heat shrink on there to hold it all in place.

That's going to be the trick, the exposed wire strands are where the insulation meets the connector. I'm wondering if some Silicone 1 might work, as well.

 

[Ranger850]

That's going to be the trick, the exposed wire strands are where the insulation meets the connector. I'm wondering if some Silicone 1 might work, as well.

I'm not familiar with "Silicone 1". Can you get a pic of the connection in question. Wondering if a "dollop" of solder would help?

 

[Bronco648]

I'm not familiar with "Silicone 1". Can you get a pic of the connection in question. Wondering if a "dollop" of solder would help?

I can get a pic, sure. Solder won't help, this is the neutral safety switch connection for an A4LD. There are four wires going into the connector. The connector is (wine bottle) cork shaped with some type of rubberized coating. The issue is right where the wiring meets the connector.

IIRC, Silicone 1 is used to seal exterior surfaces (as opposed to Silicone 2 which is interior use only and mostly used in high humidity locations, i.e. bathrooms).

 

[RobbieD]

The issue is right where the wiring meets the connector.

I've run into broken / missing wire insulation right at the connector myself, and have used hot melt glue with good results.

If the copper strands themselves are still good, clean and degrease the area real good with blasts of aerosol contact (or even brake) cleaner. Make sure that the exposed wires are separated from each other (but keep each wire's individual strands together) then start in the center of the wires and build up a good covering of glue, inside and outside the wires.

The hot glue should cover the back of the connector, and build up a covering well up to the intact original plastic wire insulation. This will insulate the bare sections, and stabilize the worn spots.

In some cases you can "de-pin" the terminal, heat-shrink the bare spot and then reinsert the terminal back into the connector. But the hot melt glue is expedient, and has worked well for me.

 

[Bronco648]

Another great idea. This connector cannot be de-pinned. I'm pretty sure the rubber coating was molded onto the connector after the wiring had been put in-place. The only issue with hot glue might be that it's more permanent than Silicone 1 (either are going to be a pain to remove). Although, if the connector or wiring fails, I'm going to need to find another one.