2.5L ('98-'01) Dead cylinder?

[Dirtman]

Head bolts need to be torqued!?

 

[snoranger]

View attachment 54567

Head bolts need to be torqued!?

Head bolts? Torqued? Red locktite and an impact gun is all you need.

 

[Dirtman]

Damn thing still started right up and ran on only 2 cylinders... limas is tough lil bastards.

 

[Dirtman]

Oh and the burnt through drill mark... yea that was factory. It is the mark they put on the piston for "this side forward". It wasn't burnt through, just looked that way on the scope...

 

[Roert42]

Just replace the head gasket with some Red RTV and send it.

 

[Dirtman]

Just replace the head gasket with some Red RTV and send it.

Pretty much what he said to do. He asks what other stuff it needs and I said every gasket I just removed and he goes "why can't you re-use that stuff".

I said get new head bolts too and he was confused. I dunno if the Lima engine of that era has TTY bolts but I'm not even messing around trying to re-use head bolts. It's not going back together with me doing it unless everything is replaced.

To give the kid credit he did torque all this stuff to spec, problem is he used anti-seize so you need wet spec. Everything was loose. The exhaust manifold was leaking everywhere, bolts practically came off by hand but they were "too spec".

Im sure @RonD knows but isn't lubed torque higher? I dunno I'm gonna research and make sure this thing goes back together right.

 

[ericbphoto]

I thought lubed spec was lower because the lube reduces the friction in the threads and makes it easier to overtorque the fasteners.

 

[Dirtman]

I thought lubed spec was lower because the lube reduces the friction in the threads and makes it easier to overtorque the fasteners.

I dunno. I always lube my lug nuts and still torque them to 90 ft lbs? Either way those head bolts literally came off with a 3/8" ratchet with like no effort. They should have taken a 1/2" breaker bar... only one was tough, and it blew rust out, all the others were soaked in oil.

 

[ericbphoto]

I dunno. I always lube my lug nuts and still torque them to 90 ft lbs? Either way those head bolts literally came off with a 3/8" ratchet with like no effort. They should have taken a 1/2" breaker bar... only one was tough, and it blew rust out, all the others were soaked in oil.

Maybe he used in-lbs instead of ft-lbs

 

[Bgunner]

It is normal to lube the threads when torqueing to get an accurate consistent torque across all bolts. My understanding is that the torque spec given in the repair manuals is ment to be reached with lubed threads.

 

[Dirtman]

It is normal to lube the threads when torqueing to get an accurate consistent torque across all bolts. My understanding is that the torque spec given in the repair manuals is ment to be reached with lubed threads.

 

[Bgunner]

It appears I was wrong have look here:

Reduced Torque with Lubricated Bolts

Lubrication effect on bolt tension and torque.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

 

[RonD]

First check that each head bolt hole is clear, no coolant/water or oil at the bottom

You can run a bolt down each hole to make sure threads are clear, doesn't take that long

I dip each bolt tip, say 1/4-1/2 inch, in oil, then put it in place

Head bolt Torque should be clamping force not friction, if you have friction then threads are wrong, or its an exhaust bolt, lol

 

[Dirtman]

If anyone is still following this crap, on a distributor-less Lima engine, does it actually matter if the oil pump drive gear (formally the distributor drive gear) is actually lined up with the mark? I can't see any logical reason the position of an oil pump gear would matter but it does still have a mark for some reason. Obviously it mattered when they had distributors, but now?

Only thing I can think of is I vaguely remember something about the cam sensor not actually being on the cam gear, which it clearly is not, but attached to the oil pump gear. Does that make it matter somehow?

 

[Dirtman]

Also can I just say #$@! Ford. I know this engine is old but they converted everything NOT on the internal engine parts itself to metric but then the engine was still SAE. What a pain in the butt. Luckily most things were 1/2" so 13mm worked but it's so annoying working on something with two different standards of measurement...

And are you kidding me with the accessory drive brackets!? I shouldn't need to remove the A/C, power steering, alternator, and idler to take the head off!!!! I've worked on a ton of 2.3's in pintos and I can tear one down in 30 minutes! This thing was a nightmare. My duratec is easier to work on!