Dead battery. Dead electrical components.

[Dneilson1@rocketmail.com]

I'm probably posting in the wrong area and I apologise.

I have a 98 XLT with 289400 miles. 5 speed manual 4.0 V6 engine.

2 days ago my battery died. I put a new battery in it yesterday and noticed a few problems.
1) speedometer is stuck at 0. Usually I can tap on the plastic window and it will make the needle work again. Got nothing. My ranger usually gets its speed signal from the rear ABS system.
2) The dome light doesn't turn on anymore. Not with the door open, not when using the dimmer switch control.
3) The windshield wipers don't work. And it's the rainy season here in Florida. The controls are on the turn signal level. Turn signals still work.
4) The sensor that causes the beeping noise when you open the door with the key in the ignition stopped beeping, and the noise it's supposed to make when you leave the light on doesn't work either.

While I'm at it.

5) P0171, P0174, and occasionally cylinder 3 or 6 misfire codes show up.

I've been working on the truck for 5 years now. Fixing things as I had the money.

Any ideas as to what could be wrong would be greatly appreciated. As of this posting I haven't checked anything but I will update as I go

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Start with fuses.

Too new for me to be familiar with it. Good luck.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

GEM(generic electronic module) does 1 to 4
1998-2000 Ranger Speed signal does come from rear ABS sensor BUT, it goes to GEM module first, GEM converts it to the 8,000PPM the speedo needs

GEM activates Dome light

GEM activates wipers

Beeper is IN the GEM

Check Cab fuses, 10, 20, 25 and 28, all are 7.5amp, all power the GEM

GEM is behind the radio in the dash

5. Lean codes both sides of engine
4.0l OHV engines would get loose lower intake bolts, they only had 12ft/lb so check a few to see if that are loose

Misfires cause Lean codes, 4.0l EATS spark plugs, try to use Motorcraft or Autolite they seem to last longer

Clean MAF sensor
Add a can of Seafoam to gas tank once a year, or similar injector cleaner

 

[Dneilson1@rocketmail.com]

Welcome to TRS

GEM(generic electronic module) does 1 to 4
1998-2000 Ranger Speed signal does come from rear ABS sensor BUT, it goes to GEM module first, GEM converts it to the 8,000PPM the speedo needs

GEM activates Dome light

GEM activates wipers

Beeper is IN the GEM

Check Cab fuses, 10, 20, 25 and 28, all are 7.5amp, all power the GEM

GEM is behind the radio in the dash

5. Lean codes both sides of engine
4.0l OHV engines would get loose lower intake bolts, they only had 12ft/lb so check a few to see if that are loose

Misfires cause Lean codes, 4.0l EATS spark plugs, try to use Motorcraft or Autolite they seem to last longer

Clean MAF sensor
Add a can of Seafoam to gas tank once a year, or similar injector cleaner

So after I got up today, I checked the fuses you mentioned. After reinserting the fuse in #20 I noticed the dome light came back on. Checked the rest. None were blown but everything GEM related is work again.

Thank you so much. I'll be looking into those lower intake bolts this weekend.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the follow up post

 

[Dneilson1@rocketmail.com]

I know it's been a while but I have great news.

Electrically speaking the truck is back in working order. All my accessories (fog lights, backup lights, tachometer because my truck didn't come with one) are now wired to key on powered fuses instead of direct to battery. So no more possible parasitic drain problems. Fuse taps are amazing.

In July, I did finally get to those lower intake bolts. They were a little loose but it didn't make a difference in how the truck acted.

However a couple weeks ago I had the opportunity to smoke test the truck. And it turns out the gasket for the IAC was causing all the vacuum leaks. After applying a generous amount of RTV around the outside after I got home Sunday night, all my lean codes are gone.

I live 3 miles from work. I reset the codes Sunday night after work. And they haven't shown back up yet. I've worked everyday since and the codes would usually pop up before I would even get to work.

Now the only thing is p1506. We had adjusted the idle screw when I had fuel pressure problems and I just need to know if it's left or right to turn it to lower the idle. I can't really see the threads.

 

[RonD]

Good work

There is no idle screw on any fuel injected engine, can't be, there are no idler jets

What you have is an anti-diesel screw that is set to avoid "run on"
The IAC Valve sets the idle

You turn the screw clockwise to open throttle plate and counter clockwise to close it

Correct way to set this, if its been adjusted, is to warm up the engine fully and then let it idle
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve
If anti-diesel screw is adjusted correctly RPMs should drop to 500 or so, engine barely running
If RPMs do not drop then turn screw counter clockwise until engine is barely running or even stalls
Its set, plug IAC valve back in and RPMs should be stable at computer's pre-programmed setting for warm idle

Idle may wander a bit for a few drive cycles until computer re-learns IAC Valves correct setting