• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

DAZED N CONFUSED


dfratus

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
21
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
MCNEAL, AZ
Vehicle Year
1995
2003
Make / Model
mazda
RANGER
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
I've replaced the plugs and wires on my 2003, 3.0 Ranger. Checked lots of times and everything seems to be routed according to specs but I can't get it to start. No codes are set.
I'm feeling a bit foolish now and need the truck to get to therapy. I'd appreciate help from you fine mechanically adept folks. Thanks muchly . . .
 


fastpakr

Forum Staff Member
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
U.S. Military - Veteran
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
8,033
Reaction score
2,852
Points
113
Location
Roanoke, VA
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
285/75-16
More information...

Was it starting before you replaced the plugs and wires?
Does it at least crank, just not fire?
Have you checked the codes?
 

dfratus

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
21
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
MCNEAL, AZ
Vehicle Year
1995
2003
Make / Model
mazda
RANGER
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
More information...

Was it starting before you replaced the plugs and wires?
Does it at least crank, just not fire?
Have you checked the codes?
I was having a problem resembling the issues with a bad cam synchronizer. At around 4k rpm under load, the engine would buck and stumble. That led me to think it might be time to replace the wires and plugs as well as the synchronizer. After doing that it turned over but wouldn't start. Obviously it seemed like a firing order problem. It didn't set any codes. It turns out that the Hanes manual lied. The Motorcraft coil pack has the orientation for wires printed on top of it that was covered with dirt and crud. Haynes manual says looking at the coil from the front of the truck, front to back, 1 2 3 on left side and 5 6 4 on the right. The proper orientation shown on top of the Motorcraft coil pack is front to back, 4 6 5 on the left side and 3 2 1 on the right side. I have a new cam synchronizer to install next. Need more beer for that project. Thanks for the reply.
 
Last edited:

JoshT

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
V8 Engine Swap
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
3,952
Reaction score
1,896
Points
113
Location
Macon/Fort Valley, GA
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I was having a problem resembling the issues with a bad cam synchronizer. At around 4k rpm under load, the engine would buck and stumble. That led me to think it might be time to replace the wires and plugs as well as the synchronizer. After doing that it turned over but wouldn't start. Obviously it seemed like a firing order problem. It didn't set any codes. It turns out that the Hanes manual lied. The Motorcraft coil pack has the orientation for wires printed on top of it that was covered with dirt and crud. Haynes manual says looking at the coil from the front of the truck, front to back, 1 2 3 on left side and 5 6 4 on the right. The proper orientation shown on top of the Motorcraft coil pack is front to back, 4 6 5 on the left side and 3 2 1 on the right side. I have a new cam synchronizer to install next. Need more beer for that project. Thanks for the reply.
Just to verify.

1) At the time of that post, you have not replaced the synchronizer yet? The start of the post kind of makes it sound like you did.

2) It will start and run now that you have corrected the plug wires?

If not, fix that problem before you add another by changing the synchro.
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,005
Reaction score
1,988
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Double check that wiring, those ones are real easy to get twisted up on, specially the 465 or whatever, the 123 is also, but you only need double check it 4 or 5 times or so :)
 

Terrys87

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 29, 2021
Messages
272
Reaction score
264
Points
63
Location
Anderson Mo.
Vehicle Year
87
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
I do not know the 3.0 and the newer models but in my experience, fuel problems usually don't throw a code such as a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.

If it was running before you did the wires, sounds like something you accidently mis routed.
 

dfratus

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
21
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
MCNEAL, AZ
Vehicle Year
1995
2003
Make / Model
mazda
RANGER
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
Ok, so what I was trying to say is that I was originally having an issue with stumbling and severe bucking when going uphill around 4,000 rpm. That's the most accurate description I can think of. That seemed to resemble similar issues other people have said they had when their cam synchronizer went bad and some said that it could be wire and plug related. No codes were set as others have noted. I bought the 2003 Ranger truck used, maybe 20k miles ago, and it has 150k miles on it now. It looked like it still had the original wires and plugs so it made sense to me that it may be time to replace them. I rely on a Haynes manual for everything, so when I did the wires, I set them up just like the manual described. It showed a picture of the engine with a coil pack on page 1-3. That proved to be a mistake. The thing would turn over but wouldn't start and still not show any codes. I checked everything out maybe three or more times and even labeled the wires in two places with tape and a marker pen. When I was looking for a real mechanic that would do house calls, Kevin at the Bisbee, AZ traffic circle, showed me a coil pack from a 3.0 engine and noted that it had the location diagram for the wires printed on it's top surface. When I cleaned mine off I could see that it was the same . The set up recommended by Haynes didn't work. The one printed on the Motorcraft coil pack did work. Just sayin . . . So far I haven't done the synchro thingie or had a chance to test drive up a hill but I have great expectations and I'm hoping my post helps someone else. Good luck and happy trails to all of us. Thanks for everything amigos.
 
Last edited:

bills4065

Member
Canada Military - Veteran
Joined
Apr 1, 2021
Messages
37
Reaction score
9
Points
8
Location
Dartmouth Nova Scotia Canada
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Once you get it running couple quick checks you could do: Check your fuel pump pressure and check for a plugged exhaust, should be less than 2 psi back pressure at 3000 rpm in park. Only suggest this your symptoms bucking under load and going up hill
 
Last edited:

fastpakr

Forum Staff Member
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
U.S. Military - Veteran
V8 Engine Swap
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
8,033
Reaction score
2,852
Points
113
Location
Roanoke, VA
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
285/75-16
Ok, so what I was trying to say is that I was originally having an issue with stumbling and severe bucking when going uphill around 4,000 rpm. That's the most accurate description I can think of. That seemed to resemble similar issues other people have said they had when their cam synchronizer went bad and some said that it could be wire and plug related. No codes were set as others have noted. I bought the truck used maybe 20k miles ago and it has 150k miles on it now. It looked like it still had the original wires and plugs so it made sense to me that it may be time to replace them. I rely on a Haynes manual for everything, so when I did the wires, I set them up just like the manual described. It showed a picture of the engine with a coil pack on page 1-3. That proved to be a mistake. The thing would turn over but wouldn't start and still not show any codes. I checked everything out maybe three or more times and even labeled the wires in two places with tape and a marker pen. When I was looking for a real mechanic that would do house calls, Kevin at the Bisbee, AZ traffic circle, showed me a coil pack from a 3.0 engine and noted that it had the location for the wires printed on it's top surface. When I cleaned mine off I could see that it was the same . The set up recommended by Haynes didn't work. The one printed on the Motorcraft coil pack did work. Just sayin . . . So far I haven't done the synchro thingie or had a chance to test drive up a hill but I have great expectations and I'm hoping my post helps someone else. Good luck and happy trails to all of us. Thanks for everything amigos.
So... it IS running now? You never really said that unless I read right through it.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Mudtruggy
May Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top