Dash Removal '94


helpme

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OK, I've decided to pull the dash and fix the leak to the outside so I won't get wet carpeting any more. Anybody ever done this on a 94?
 


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ericbphoto

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OK, I've decided to pull the dash and fix the leak to the outside so I won't get wet carpeting any more. Anybody ever done this on a 94?
Yes. Somebody has done that.

Ok. So whats the question you really want answered? It’s not difficult to pull the dash. Just takes patience and it helps to have tiny hands.
 

JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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Yes. Somebody has done that.

Ok. So whats the question you really want answered? It’s not difficult to pull the dash. Just takes patience and it helps to have tiny hands.
lol
 

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It’s been at least 10 years since I pulled that style dash, so i can’t give you a fully detailed write-up...

In the engine compartment, near the brake booster... find the big white connector. Unbolt the 10mm bolt in the center and unplug it. Push the 3 tabs in around the part through the firewall and push the connector into the cab.
In the cab:
Drop the steering column, there’s 1 bolt above the column through the aluminum bracket that you need to remove.
Open the glove compartment all the way past the stops... disconnect the antenna wire staring you in the face and the vacuum connector near there. (IIRC, there’s a harness connector over there also, maybe behind the kick panel.)
Pull the instrument cluster bezel and cluster, disconnect the speedometer cable.
There’s bolts on both lower corners of the dash.
There’s a few bolts across the top by the windshield.
There may be one bolt in the center all the way at the bottom of the dash, going into the firewall... I can’t remember for sure.
There’s 2 cables from the HVAC controls yo the HVAC box that need to be removed.
You’ll probably need to remove the kick panels and the a pillar trim.

That should get you pretty close... there maybe a few more connectors or bolts. That doesn’t include anything that the previous owners added or modified over the years. I used to be able to pull that style dash in under 30 minutes.
 

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I sure wish I had seen your post before tearing into mine!
It’s been at least 10 years since I pulled that style dash, so i can’t give you a fully detailed write-up...

In the engine compartment, near the brake booster... find the big white connector. Unbolt the 10mm bolt in the center and unplug it. Push the 3 tabs in around the part through the firewall and push the connector into the cab.
In the cab:
Drop the steering column, there’s 1 bolt above the column through the aluminum bracket that you need to remove.
Open the glove compartment all the way past the stops... disconnect the antenna wire staring you in the face and the vacuum connector near there. (IIRC, there’s a harness connector over there also, maybe behind the kick panel.)
Pull the instrument cluster bezel and cluster, disconnect the speedometer cable.
There’s bolts on both lower corners of the dash.
There’s a few bolts across the top by the windshield.
There may be one bolt in the center all the way at the bottom of the dash, going into the firewall... I can’t remember for sure.
There’s 2 cables from the HVAC controls yo the HVAC box that need to be removed.
You’ll probably need to remove the kick panels and the a pillar trim.

That should get you pretty close... there maybe a few more connectors or bolts. That doesn’t include anything that the previous owners added or modified over the years. I used to be able to pull that style dash in under 30 minutes.
 

Bgunner

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Having a 94 also and am interested in this thread because I want to replace my cracked dash, What did you used to use to pull the dash bolts at the top without removing the windshield?

This to me seems the toughest spot to get the bolts out of due to room limitations.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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1/4" drive extensions and a ratchet.
 

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Did you use a swivel or just the extensions? I only ask because this is a really tight spot and the the angle looks funky.
 

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I forgot about the PRNDL indicator... if you have an auto, disconnect the PRNDL indicator before dropping the column or it will break.
 

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Before pulling the dash are you certain the leak isn't at the base of the windshield?
BGunner: If you replace the dash on your 94 would you want to part with the trim around the defroster outlet? My 93 was a former drag truck and the trim/grill is completely missing, as were many parts.
 

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Did you use a swivel or just the extensions? I only ask because this is a really tight spot and the the angle looks funky.
I used an extension on the end of my 1/4" drive impact gun with a straight bit. The extension is about 16" long. It doesn't go exactly straight onto the nut but worked for me.
 

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It’s not really difficult to reach this screws. You’re overthinking it. The hard part is unclippinng and unfastening wire bundles and various doohickeys underneath.
 

snoranger

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It’s not really difficult to reach this screws. You’re overthinking it. The hard part is unclippinng and unfastening wire bundles and various doohickeys underneath.
The harness stays attached to the back of the dash. You only unhook a few connectors.
 

ericbphoto

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In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
The harness stays attached to the back of the dash. You only unhook a few connectors.
It has been a few years since I did it. If I recall, I believe I was able to do about 98% of the remove/reinstall in one day. It took extra time because I added some extra wiring.
 

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I wouldn't use a 1/4 impact to remove the screws along the top of the dash, one slip and you've got a broken windshield. Just plug your extension onto a nut driver and do it by hand.
 


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