Dana 44 TTB in a RBV

[littlered351]

I've read somewhere about bolting in a dana 44 TTB in place of a 28 or 35. How much wider would it be than the 28 or 35? I know you would have to cut down and respline the center shaft to make it work under a RBV.

Also where can I get specs of how wide the rear axles are?
80's 7.5's and 90-92 8.8's
93+ ranger 8.8's
explorer drum 8.8
explorer disc 8.8's

The plan is to try and run the 44TTB up front and an disc explorer 8.8 with 1.5'' adapters to convert to 5 on 5.5 if the widths are close when done.

 

[4x4junkie]

The D44 TTB is 65" wide (WMS-WMS).

Its not entirely bolt-in, but depending on how you do it, it's probably less work than mounting a straightaxle D44 would be.

The TTB D44 has a slightly narrower pivot spacing than the D28 or 35 (by about 2"), so this will need to be accounted for when you put it in.

3 ways to do it:

1.
Bolt the D44 straight into your existing brackets, then shorten the passengerside shaft(s) a total of 1.5-2". This will result in a 2" narrowing of the axle (63" WMS).

2.
Modify your existing brackets by drilling a new hole ¾-1" inboard of the existing holes, and mount the axle in the new holes. This will preserve the 65" width and will not require shortening of the shafts.
Some brackets may not have enough room for the new holes though.

3. (probably the best method)
Extend the D44 TTB beams 1" each side, and then bolt it into your existing brackets.


All 3 approaches will require some modifications to your radius arm mounts (and possibly the radius arms themselves). Extended arms should be used.
You may also need to move the coil buckets outward 1-2" depending on how much lift you're running (a spacer or something can be welded onto the backside of the bucket to move it outward).


ALL Explorer 8.8s are 59.5" wide
'83-'92 Ranger axles (all) are 56.5"
'93up Ranger axles (all) are 58.5"

D28 is 58"
D35 is 59.5"


Hope that helps.

 

[littlered351]

That helps alot.

Ok I have the 44 TTB laying in my back yard from a SAS on my 80 F-150. Bolting it to the existing holes, spacing the coil buckets outward 2'', and extending the radius arms. Gives me 63'' WMS-WMS on the front. Using a 95 up explorer disc brake 8.8 with 1.5'' wheel adapters on each side to get the same 5 on 5.5 pattern would net a 62.5 rear WMS-WMS which is perfectly acceptable.

My thinking is I get to use an otherwise junk axle (the 44 in my yard), stronger than the 28 that I have now, more and cheeper ring and pinion choices than the 28 or 35, better bearing spacing on the hubs, cheeper lockouts, wider stance for offroad, etc.

I'm tossing this around vs buying a 35 to bolt under there.

 

[PARKINGLOT]

nice post. I hate to admit this, but I was thinking about doing that EXACT same thing. TTB 44 front and Explorer 8.8 rear with adapters. I was quietly researching it, but if I do it, it'll depend on if I can find a TTB 44 cheaper than a D35...

 

[littlered351]

Most junkyards I've found are the same price on the TTB axles. I was just thinking about it cause I've got 2 44 TTB's laying here wasting. I'm still tossing it around.

 

[canyoncritter]

no custom axles shafts, and I belive it makes for a bolt on kind of deal....its alittle pricey, but what is not in off road?

http://www.autofab.com/mdl_44_ranger.htm

 

[PARKINGLOT]

junkie, i'm confused. How would, if the TTB Dana 44 pivot points in an F-150 are 2" narrower, would you need to shorten the middle shafts? Wouldn't they need to be lengthed? Or is the RBV TTB pivot points 2" narrower, hence the need to narrow the middle shafts.....

I'm somewhat confused....

Also, would you you do for the steering (assuming you could use F-150 linkage?), brake lines, and driveshaft?

Would you stock ranger coil buckets or F-150 coil buckets? and would you run RBV coils or F-150/EB/FSB coils? (assuming you wanted softer coils than RBV ones...)

 

[4x4junkie]

junkie, i'm confused. How would, if the TTB Dana 44 pivot points in an F-150 are 2" narrower, would you need to shorten the middle shafts? Wouldn't they need to be lengthed? Or is the RBV TTB pivot points 2" narrower, hence the need to narrow the middle shafts.....

I'm somewhat confused....

Also, would you you do for the steering (assuming you could use F-150 linkage?), brake lines, and driveshaft?

Would you stock ranger coil buckets or F-150 coil buckets? and would you run RBV coils or F-150/EB/FSB coils? (assuming you wanted softer coils than RBV ones...)

The RBV pivots have about 14" of separation, if memory serves me correctly. The F-150's are closer to 12" apart (this is looking straight from the front).
This brings the two sides of the axle housing closer together if you bolt it into the RBV pivots (remember the pivots are on the opposite side of center from the beam it's supporting).

The stock F-150 steering linkage should be usable, although it's possible you might need to trim the threads on the TREs a bit.
Brake lines bolt right up. If you have the correct pinion yoke, the driveshaft will bolt right up to it. It will need to be shortened about 1-1.5" from the D35 length though.

as for coils, I'd use early Bronco coils on it.

 

[PARKINGLOT]

The RBV pivots have about 14" of separation, if memory serves me correctly. The F-150's are closer to 12" apart (this is looking straight from the front).
This brings the two sides of the axle housing closer together if you bolt it into the RBV pivots (remember the pivots are on the opposite side of center from the beam it's supporting).

The stock F-150 steering linkage should be usable, although it's possible you might need to trim the threads on the TREs a bit.
Brake lines bolt right up. If you have the correct pinion yoke, the driveshaft will bolt right up to it. It will need to be shortened about 1-1.5" from the D35 length though.

as for coils, I'd use early Bronco coils on it.

lol...I was at work, driving down the highway tonight, thinking about that, when suddenly, I was like "wait a minute...*thinking* oh hell, that's right...he's gonna think i'm an idiot now..."

Did you use fullsize linkage on your ranger? what did you have to do the to driveshaft? did you keep the stock ranger coil buckets?

 

[4x4junkie]

I narrowed mine (yeah, I know This was over 10 years ago before I knew what was (or wasn't) different between D44s and D35s). The stock Ranger linkage fits on it (after redrilling the taper on the knuckles to be on top).

I also moved the axle forward about 1", and the stock driveshaft fit, too (although just barely, it had maybe 1.5" of spline travel left at ride height before it bottomed out). I still have the 6" SJ TTB coils on it also.

 

[PARKINGLOT]

hmmm...I wonder if the F-150/FSB linkage would fit the stock RBV pitman arm...
was it hard to seat the RBV coils on the D44 TTB?

 

[4x4junkie]

Not really... I had to shim the perches with an angled spacer so they sat straight, but that was about all that was needed.

If you run it full width, you probably won't need to shim the perches though (the entire coil can sit at a slight angle instead).

 

[PARKINGLOT]

well. See....hmmmm
let's clear the plate. I'm seriously thinking about doing this. Reason being, I can get a complete Dana 44 TTB setup for $40. Now that I've got that out...

-I'd like to bolt the beams in the stock pivots. I'd need to trim like, what, 1/2" to 1" off the middle shaft where it goes into the diff, and where else? I'd do an c-clip eliminator (spring), so that won't be an issue.

-I plan on getting the steering linkage as well. Now, I'd probably need to trim a bit off each end of the linkage where the TRE adjustment collar is, correct? like, another 1/2" to 1"?

-speaking of steering, what are the odds the fullsize linkage will bolt to the RBV pitman arm?

-Does the Dana 44 TTB have the same sized u-joint as an RBV front driveshaft? or should I get a custom shaft made, with an RBV t-case end and a D44 TTB end?

-you said brake lines bolt up. check. Did you mean the D44 flexhoses bolt to the RBV hardlines, or that the RBV flexhoses bolt to the D44?

-Should i use the D44 radius arms or RBV arms? I plan on extending them anyway...(i'll be lifting the truck whenever I install it)

-I'm hoping to have around 4" of lift, using f250 shock mounts, longer shocks, the aforementioned extended arms, etc. What type of coils would you recommend? EB? XJ/TJ?

thanks junkie...

 

[4x4junkie]

well. See....hmmmm
let's clear the plate. I'm seriously thinking about doing this. Reason being, I can get a complete Dana 44 TTB setup for $40. Now that I've got that out...

-I'd like to bolt the beams in the stock pivots. I'd need to trim like, what, 1/2" to 1" off the middle shaft where it goes into the diff, and where else? I'd do an c-clip eliminator (spring), so that won't be an issue.

Trim the big spline on the passengerside main shaft and/or the spline on the passenger inner shaft (WATCH that you don't trim so much off the inner shaft that the seal doesn't sit on the smooth machined part of the shaft anymore!)

-I plan on getting the steering linkage as well. Now, I'd probably need to trim a bit off each end of the linkage where the TRE adjustment collar is, correct? like, another 1/2" to 1"?

-speaking of steering, what are the odds the fullsize linkage will bolt to the RBV pitman arm?

I would imagine so, yes. You'll probably want to check things before you cut it at all though. If the relationship of the steeringbox vs. the axle is different on the RBV frame vs. the F-150, you probably won't need to trim one side at all, but have to trim more on the other (or it might not even work, I wish I could tell you for sure, but I'd need to get an F-150 in front of me to take measurements from, and I don't have one accessible)

TRE at the pitman arm is same for F-150 vs. RBV (Its the same pitman arm)

-Does the Dana 44 TTB have the same sized u-joint as an RBV front driveshaft? or should I get a custom shaft made, with an RBV t-case end and a D44 TTB end?

No, the u-joint is bigger.
You can either get a conversion u-joint,
Get a different yoke for the axle (1310), or
Have the weird driveshaft made
(I would get the yoke if you're changing gear ratios on it)

-you said brake lines bolt up. check. Did you mean the D44 flexhoses bolt to the RBV hardlines, or that the RBV flexhoses bolt to the D44?

RBV flex hoses bolt to the D44 calipers.

-Should i use the D44 radius arms or RBV arms? I plan on extending them anyway...(i'll be lifting the truck whenever I install it)

You can use either on the D44, although the RBV arms are a tad wider and would need a spacer (washer) between one mounting ear of the arm and the axle.

-I'm hoping to have around 4" of lift, using f250 shock mounts, longer shocks, the aforementioned extended arms, etc. What type of coils would you recommend? EB? XJ/TJ?

Is this all going on the BII in your sig? What do you figure the weight will end up being?

Most likely I would say use some flexy coils for an early Bronco, or Skyjacker brand XJ coils (or any ZJ coils).

thanks junkie...

 

[PARKINGLOT]

-I will be changing gears. So, it would just be easier to bolt a different yoke on in the process?

-chances are i'll use the D44 arms then, and make/get made some custom mounts.

-Yea, it'll be going in my BII. as for the weight, whatever it weighs now, plus the weight of a winch (eventually...) more or less...whenever I start driving it, there's a CAT scale at the truckstop by my work's yard, I'll weigh it there...

-I'll grab the steering anyway, and we'll need to see how that goes...