Dana 35 TTB or Dana 30 Solid

[4.0B2]

so the dana 28 ttb front axle just aint gonna cut it, obviously. i've done alot of research and still aint got a clear answer. I have considered the dana 30 solid front axle or the dana 35 ttb. I have an explorer for parts already. The rear axle will be the ford 8.8 probably 4.10 positrac.

the dana 30: has same bolt pattern, about same width, and is solid (the obvious advantage)
the dana 35: practically bolt in swap, but is not solid.

of course, the best option is a narrowed dana 44, but thats more involved then i wanna go. The plan is to run 33's.
I'm just looking for some of yall's input on this. Is the dana 30 worth it? Is it as strong as the dana 35 ttb? What's involved with the dana 30 swap other than whats in the tech section here?

 

[BlackBII]

The D35 is stronger than the 30.

The TTB can be made to flex and perform just as well as a solid axle.

You already have an explorer, and the 35 is a bolt in swap, and it's stronger than a D30. It's the more sensible option

 

[4.0B2]

the ttb will be fine for slight rocks? it'll be a daily driver during the week so i have to keep ride quality. Does anyone know what i need to do the d35 swap since i have the rough country lift? I know that it says to watch the clearance of the bracket to the diff. I want all this figured out before i start the swap. Is there anyone who has personally done the swap that can tell me any problems to watch out for?

 

[4x4junkie]

Slight rocks? lol Yeah, it should be more than plenty fine for that.

Like Black said, the D35 is the stronger axle (almost matching that of the D44, due to it's many shared parts).
Getting the suspension to flex well does require you have some understanding of TTB suspensions however, as the aftermarket industry does exceptionally little to help here (infact it can screw you good when it comes to steering corrections if you don't know what you're getting). Once a few simple things are understood however, it all becomes real easy to work with, and can be much more cost-effective too (I've got about 1/3 of what a typical SAS would cost into mine,).

Take a look around the forum here for past discussions about using Jeep or early Bronco coils with the TTB suspension, and BY FAR most important item of all, having the geometry of your steering linkage in correct relation to your axle.
Virtually all "limitations" most people talk about relating to TTB suspensions can be easily overcome with the right setup.

These links in particular should be of some help (but don't stop here):
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2003/MaximumFlexForTheTTB.htm
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29


Hope that helps.
Check out my Cardomain page for how mine is setup. Only thing I'd ever trade mine out for is a D60, but only if the need for it arises (so far I've been doing pretty good).

 

[Clem]

Have a look at CopyCats avatar, that is a D35 with travel.

Ray

 

[trail B2]

My bitch about the d30 is a lot of the ones that would be a candidate have that one side locking axle.So what happens is when you put some kinds of lockers in is the rig pulls bad in 2 wheel drive and to set them up for hubs is real expensive.

 

[PaleBlue90]

one of the disadvanges of the jeep 30 is that when u go to 35's or bigger it is better to truss it. the houseing flexes with big tires.

http://tntcustoms.com/front.aspx

my truck had the coil bucket rot into nothing so i used a yj 30 (leaf spring and its a high pinion) i got it for a good price.. im only going to 33's for now.... down the road im swaping a 60 and 14bolt or some combo....

i have had a TTB 35 under both my old exploders and they were great, the only thing i hated is that they plowed mud and got me stuck a few times....

 

[4.0B2]

so dana 35 is a better option? i figured as much. i'm still doing alot of research of course. the plan is maybe go up to a 3's at superlift. and just to run 33's. i know the ttb will flex forever down, but up is the issue. and then has anyone ran the superlift steering setup? is it worth the money? i've always had an issue with front end alignments... but thats another issue lol

 

[4x4junkie]

i know the ttb will flex forever down, but up is the issue.

That's why the swap to better springs that don't restrict everything like standard-issue TTB coils do (did you check out any of the links I posted above??). Mine will easily flex all the way up to the bumpstop.

The Superlift steering kit can be a great setup, but not as it comes out of the box. You do have to modify it because Superlift failed on one aspect of it's design. Fortunately it's not hard to do if you have a good welder (and again, this is detailed in at least one of the links I put above).

 

[slammer67]

IMO a d30 is about equal in strength to a d35 ttb
sure the d35 has a bigger ring gear- a weak point of the d30, but they break in other areas- like the hubs.
I hate the way the ttb axles abuses tires, as you are always changing camber - even more if you go to softer springs.
What I don't like about the d30- no hubs- its hard to run a locker when you cant unlock the hubs
but i would prefer a solid d30 over ttb anyday.

 

[bobbywalter]

i would never swap a ttb35 for a 30.


i know i could fully bind and compress 24 in springs with my ttb.


i would swap a 30 into a sla or 2wd truck in an instant though.


in this case a good skyjacker bracket/arm set and the typical ttb mods would be my vote. i have a set of copycats brackets from the vms days and they were by far, the strongest component on my rig.

while i dont agree that the d35 is substantionally stronger or better then a good hp 30...in a situation such as this it is the clear winner...

.as in my experience the d30 can take a serious ass whoopin. i know i have been out with rigs running a hundred more horse(mine being 300 ish)and similar tires and not bust anything in several rides where i busted something EVERY RIDE. one would think i would hate d35's....but it more then handled what could be expected for what it was and the level of abuse i was dishing out....a d44 would have been a piss waste of time in my case as well let alone a 30.


its all in what you do as to what will be ideal.

with the info givin...like already mentioned...the d35 is best in my eyes provided you can get parts for it. where i live they are getting pretty scarce for decent parts.

 

[bobbywalter]

Have a look at CopyCats avatar, that is a D35 with travel.

Ray

i would have to say junkies avatar is rather convincing too

 

[4x4junkie]

IMO a d30 is about equal in strength to a d35 ttb
sure the d35 has a bigger ring gear- a weak point of the d30, but they break in other areas- like the hubs.
I hate the way the ttb axles abuses tires, as you are always changing camber - even more if you go to softer springs.
What I don't like about the d30- no hubs- its hard to run a locker when you cant unlock the hubs
but i would prefer a solid d30 over ttb anyday.

Again, I refer you up to those links I posted above. All of the info needed to eliminate the tire abuse (and info about better hubs) is contained right there.

i would have to say junkies avatar is rather convincing too

That pic is nothing of what it's capable of
I think that was only flexed about 12" maybe

 

[4.0B2]

so dana 35 it is. i checked out the explorer yesterday and found out it has aftermarket warn lockouts on it. I'll have to regear it, but this is still gonna be easier way out. Any other advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone on this thread for the help and insight

 

[udjlax]

this might be a stupid question but jw, would a explorer front axle swap directly in for a ranger dana 35 ttb?