D44 TTB Swap - Axle Cut Info Pictures?

[dude772]

At the bottom of the first page of my build, ive started to shorten the axle tube.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258

Page 5 it continues half way down

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258&page=5


and page 6 is about the end of shortening the axle tube

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258&page=6


The worst of it is getting the shaft shortened for me. You could just buy a new one. But i wanted to do it my way, and keep my dollar local.


If your just buying a new shaft, shortening the tube is easy. cut the weld holding the end on, pound it off, cut the tube, pound the end back on, reweld.

Only thing to make sure you do is mark the end and tube. Maybe put a grind line in the tube(for 7 inches from the end of the tube inward) and the end.

 

[Josh40601]

Here is another alternative. This one is lengthened but you could shorten the same way.

Yea, i am having the same da*n problem with the passenger side shaft. I used the Skyjacker drop brackets, moved the coil buckets out 2" on both sides, and the only thing stoping me is this! How would you balance the shaft after cutting it?

 

[CopyKat]

At the bottom of the first page of my build, ive started to shorten the axle tube.

This is a TTB thread not SAS BS.

Yea, i am having the same da*n problem with the passenger side shaft. I used the Skyjacker drop brackets, moved the coil buckets out 2" on both sides, and the only thing stoping me is this! How would you balance the shaft after cutting it?

You might be able to get a driveline shop to ture it. If done right it should be fairly true and not need much.

Are you going full width with it? I plan to add a bit to the pivots on mine. Just so that I can use the D44HD shaft if I could ever find one.

 

[Josh40601]

You might be able to get a driveline shop to ture it. If done right it should be fairly true and not need much.

Are you going full width with it? I plan to add a bit to the pivots on mine. Just so that I can use the D44HD shaft if I could ever find one.

So pretty much cut the yoke off, cut the 2" (its more like 2.18 or something like that) off that end, and reweld it back on to the yoke?

 

[CopyKat]

So pretty much cut the yoke off, cut the 2" (its more like 2.18 or something like that) off that end, and reweld it back on to the yoke?

Cut somewhere in the middle and sleave it.

BTW got any pictures of your setup?

 

[Josh40601]

Cut somewhere in the middle and sleave it.

BTW got any pictures of your setup?

There is a couple in my album in the gallery. Check them out

 

[CopyKat]

Any of the coil bucket mods and what you did for rad arms.

 

[Josh40601]

Any of the coil bucket mods and what you did for rad arms.

No, but i can type what i did. I dont wanna jack dudes thread though. I will start my own

 

[FastEddy760]

Final results are to trim about .5-.625 off the axle. Appears to still leave plenty of meat on the axel shaft. Truck is on the road now and driving daily.

Now I need to clearance the u-joints as they bind at full droop. A few more degrees ought to send me down the road without issues.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

[kris97ranger]

do u have pics of where u cut it and how does shortening it help with binding? sorry to jack but im considering this and am curious
________
AFICAQUEENZ

 

[FastEddy760]

Flickr Images...

Here is a shot of the binding axle -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fasteddy760/3616456809/in/set-72157604515364778/

At the long end of the shaft, we cut the shy side of .625 off. This eliminated the bind/impact during the cycle of the passenger side beam.

The issues I had were the spindles being mixed up as they were pulled from the "pile of Ford parts over there in that corner". I did not know what shafts when with what spindle. Once I figured that out, I was in good shape.

Let me know if you have anymore questions. I've been out of the country and out of the state over the last few weeks, so apologies for the delayed response.

 

[kris97ranger]

cool. so im assuming that u just had to cut it it wasnt enough to have to get splines re cut or anything?
________
The Cliff Condominiums Pattaya

 

[FastEddy760]

Correct...

A chop saw was all that was needed. The end was de-burred by rotating the axle against the chop saw blade. This added the tapered edge back like factory.

Of course cycle the suspension before and afterwards.

Keep in mind, the axle I used, on the passenger side is from an F-250 if I recall correctly. Its about 1.75 shorter than the Bronco passenger axle.

I discovered this on Jeff's Bronco Graveyard website.

With factory Ranger pivot points, they are two inches wider than the Bronco pivots. With I-beams, wider pivots makes for a narrower track width as it pulls the knuckles closer together. Hope thats makes sense.

The AutoFab kit has a bracket that adjusts the pivot points back to stock Bronco measurements, so none of the axle search find and grind is needed.
Thats said, how easy is it to get an axle from a pick-a-part, shave it .5-.625" and bolt it all together. Well, there is some clearance work involved for the lager D44, but even the AutoFab kit requires that.

I need to take some pictures of the completed install. Its a daily driver now. And I'm so glad I did this D44 TTB conversion.

 

[4x4junkie]

Cood deal, glad you got it all figured out

Yes, post some pics of your ride. We wanna see!