D44 spool or not to spool?

[Northidahotrailblazer]

I'm buying parts for my D44 swap. (already have D30 swapped in) My D44 has 3 something gears in it already. So My end goal is 4.88s. I was thing thinking, why not just buy a spool. I'll have lock out hubs.... About the cheapest combo for true locked front diff. If my carrier was the right one i would weld it, but i have to buy a different carrier. My end goal is 37s, I'm going to rebuild my 4.0. I DD this thing more than wheel it, and I talk a big game I do more logging road driving than anything. Also since I have unlockable hubs I really don't see the point of an air or electric locker. Maybe a Detroit locker but why? A spool should work or am I missing something.

 

[Shran]

Spool in the front would be a hard NO in my opinion, you will HATE that for any winter driving on the street. It is borderline dangerous. For a dedicated wheeling rig... maybe.

The point of a selectable locker is to retain your ability to steer with the diff unlocked and then lock it at the push of a button when you lose traction. Unlocking your hubs defeats the purpose of having 4wd... you might as well just run around in 2wd at that point. A spool or welded diff will be very detrimental to your ability to steer and have the vehicle go in the direction you want it to.

A Detroit locker is the same concept as a Lock-rite/Aussie/Spartan but it replaces the entire carrier instead of just the spider gears. They function the same way and are locked most of the time. It would be a distant second to a selectable locker for a daily driver... I have a Lock-rite in the front of my '86 and it is a bear to keep the truck going straight on snowy roads because it's locked 95% of the time.

 

[ericbphoto]

I agree. I wouldn't want a pool in front, even on a dedicated trail rig. I have an Aussie and still wish I had more control over locking/unlocking it. Overall, I am happy with the Aussie. But steering can be an issue at times.

 

[dvdswan]

The spool will make the truck difficult to turn and hop, the spool will always want to go straight.

Think of how a spool handles in the rear axle. Going around the corner the inner tire will chirp, hop, skip, whatever you want to call it.

Either a selectable locker or limited slip is better for the front. If this is "strictly" an off-highway vehicle that will never see pavement at all. Then by all means, spool it.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Spool in the front would be a hard NO in my opinion, you will HATE that for any winter driving on the street. It is borderline dangerous. For a dedicated wheeling rig... maybe.

The point of a selectable locker is to retain your ability to steer with the diff unlocked and then lock it at the push of a button when you lose traction. Unlocking your hubs defeats the purpose of having 4wd... you might as well just run around in 2wd at that point. A spool or welded diff will be very detrimental to your ability to steer and have the vehicle go in the direction you want it to.

A Detroit locker is the same concept as a Lock-rite/Aussie/Spartan but it replaces the entire carrier instead of just the spider gears. They function the same way and are locked most of the time. It would be a distant second to a selectable locker for a daily driver... I have a Lock-rite in the front of my '86 and it is a bear to keep the truck going straight on snowy roads because it's locked 95% of the time.

I understand that. But you DD your rig around with your hubs locked? middle of summer down a highway? I drive over a mountain pass to work and i only needed 4x4 a hand full of times the past 3 years and it was like 25 mph and roads were bad. My ranger with my D30 is the only one that the front end is locked all the time, (its still open diff) but it is nice to not get out to deal with hubs but I know if it had lock able hubs i would unlock them. I know it would drive nicer and get better mileage. I've also read you can unlock one hub and it will be like an open carrier. I had a lockrite in my D30 and it sucked to drive.

I'm having a hard time seeing the point of having a selectable locker when you have hubs. When i need 4x4 i need it, Iced over bad roads, i'm not going fast. Other wise i just unlock the hubs. Saves on mileage and wear an tear on things. I really don't see the point to do a lunch box locker. I would have to buy a carrier and I have something that is weak. I don't see the point of a true track or something like it. I want my wheels locked I want them locked. When you have hubs I can always unlock one of the hubs and it will be an open diff then. A selectable locker is locked all the time when you want it right? I get it when you have an axle that doesn't have hubs. I don't understand the point in a selectable locker when you have hubs. An ARB is a Spool when its on, says so right on its web site. So the only deal with a ARB is you can run the hubs locked in all the time and just flip a switch and you have a spool.

 

[Shran]

I understand that. But you DD your rig around with your hubs locked? middle of summer down a highway?

Definitely not. I never drive it on the street with the hubs locked, even in 2wd it messes with the steering. I daily drove it in the winter of 2014 and it was a miserable experience every time it snowed.

I've also read you can unlock one hub and it will be like an open carrier.

It will not be like an open carrier. Only the wheel that has a hub locked in will spin. Open carriers can apply power to either.

I had a lockrite in my D30 and it sucked to drive

If you thought that was bad, a spool will NEVER ratchet when turned like your Lock-rite sometimes will

A selectable locker is locked all the time when you want it right? I get it when you have an axle that doesn't have hubs. I don't understand the point in a selectable locker when you have hubs. An ARB is a Spool when its on, says so right on its web site. So the only deal with a ARB is you can run the hubs locked in all the time and just flip a switch and you have a spool.

A selectable locker is an open differential when it is OFF and a spool when it is ON. It's the best of both worlds. Traction when you need it and the ability to turn at all other times.

Auburn Gear made a selectable limited slip called the Ected Locker, I am sure you will run across those and I would HIGHLY recommend against them as well. I know a couple people that had them and threw them in the trash... they would either not lock at all or would disengage constantly. Junk.

Personally I would do these, in this order for a daily driver:
#1 open diff
#2 selectable locker
#3 if your budget does not allow for an ARB/Zip/Ox/E-locker, then a full carrier limited slip is in order

 

[ericbphoto]

Having the front locked together makes it hard to steer. It just doesn't like to go where you tell it to go. The times I tried driving mine on ice and snow with the Aussie locker, I ended up getting out and u locking one front hub and driving in 3wd. It was much more road friendly that way. When I'm on tight trails offroad with it, I often must do a 3 point (or more) turn to negotiate switchbacks.

Do what you want. It's your truck. If you try it and don't like it, you can go back to normal.

 

[Shran]

@ericbphoto you need an Atlas or a t-case capable of front wheel drive... I twin sticked the 205 in mine and front dig is stupid handy for overcoming the steering issues that come with a locker!

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

@ericbphoto and @Shran I guess ill just have to think about it some. I appreciate the input. I get what you guys are saying. I want a selectable locker for the rear. I'm just torn on the front.

 

[Shran]

Oh man... this just my opinion but I think a limited slip in the rear and a selectable in the front is the perfect setup for a light wheeler/mostly daily driver. Two selectables is nice as well but it's just more to mess with.

I have the factory trac-lock in the rear of my Explorer and an E-locker in the front. You just put it in 4 wheel drive and go till you can't go, then you lock the front and it'll either pull you through or you're winching. I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Oh man... this just my opinion but I think a limited slip in the rear and a selectable in the front is the perfect setup for a light wheeler/mostly daily driver. Two selectables is nice as well but it's just more to mess with.

I have the factory trac-lock in the rear of my Explorer and an E-locker in the front. You just put it in 4 wheel drive and go till you can't go, then you lock the front and it'll either pull you through or you're winching. I wouldn't have it any other way.

I did think about that, I do already have a limited slip 8.8 in the rear already. It must be pretty healthy also because it locks up pretty good. I wouldn't have to do much besides gears since its already a lower gear ratio being a 410. I'm just going to buy that yukon ultimate 88 kit so I can just upgrade everything at once. I thought about just rebuilding the limited slip, make it a little tighter and run it. I don't know.

How far did your D44 stick out? I'm trying to decide if i want to shorten it to bronco width also.

 

[Shran]

My D44 was narrowed to Early Bronco width before I got it. My tires stick out probably a good 5-6" past the fenders but they are on 8" wide wheels and are 12.5" wide... overall the front is just a hair wider than the rear (Explorer rear axle.)

I thought about doing the Ultimate 88 kit too but if you break a shaft you are screwed. There are no junkyard parts. I would rather live with the C clips and have access to junkyard parts for trail repairs than drag a truck out on three legs... I was with a guy who broke a narrowed 9" rear shaft and it took most of the day to fix. Had to remove the broken shaft and have someone from camp come out and weld it back together so we could limp back.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

My D44 was narrowed to Early Bronco width before I got it. My tires stick out probably a good 5-6" past the fenders but they are on 8" wide wheels and are 12.5" wide... overall the front is just a hair wider than the rear (Explorer rear axle.)

I thought about doing the Ultimate 88 kit too but if you break a shaft you are screwed. There are no junkyard parts. I would rather live with the C clips and have access to junkyard parts for trail repairs than drag a truck out on three legs... I was with a guy who broke a narrowed 9" rear shaft and it took most of the day to fix. Had to remove the broken shaft and have someone from camp come out and weld it back together so we could limp back.

Yeah there was a guy in my area narrowing them, but he is MIA and i cant find any of his post's for a phone number to see if he will do it still. I was trying to decide if i could do it. I've got everything to do it, and my D44 is a 75? Its already set up for 3 link. I need to put a tap on it and see how much really wider it is. My tires stick out a good 3 inches already probably more. I'm surprised I haven't been pulled over yet lol

Thats a good point about the 8.8. my 3 spare axles would be useless really. lol since there drum also....

 

[ericbphoto]

@ericbphoto you need an Atlas or a t-case capable of front wheel drive... I twin sticked the 205 in mine and front dig is stupid handy for overcoming the steering issues that come with a locker!

If I had the money....

 

[dvdswan]

My D44 was narrowed to Early Bronco width before I got it. My tires stick out probably a good 5-6" past the fenders but they are on 8" wide wheels and are 12.5" wide... overall the front is just a hair wider than the rear (Explorer rear axle.)

I have an early Bronco D44 and my tires barely go past the fenders. You must have a heck of an offset for the rims.

Yeah there was a guy in my area narrowing them, but he is MIA and i cant find any of his post's for a phone number to see if he will do it still. I was trying to decide if i could do it. I've got everything to do it, and my D44 is a 75? Its already set up for 3 link. I need to put a tap on it and see how much really wider it is. My tires stick out a good 3 inches already probably more. I'm surprised I haven't been pulled over yet lol

I was going to say if you have the forged end 78-79 D44 you could take the long end off and narrow it to the EB D44 length of 59.5 WMS/WMS.