d35 lower ball joint relocation

[Ranger#1]

has anyone done the math and figured out how much you have to push that joint out to elamate drop brackets on a 4-5 inch lift most likley a 4 inch lift

 

[CopyKat]

There is no set degree or measurement to follow.

I was told the way to do it is to mount the beams with the coils you plan to use. Measure the coil height. Pull everything apart. cut the lower ball joint seat out. Mount up the beams. Block the beam at the coil location with the coil height you measured earlier. With 0° bushings move the ball joint seat out untill your spindle mount is at 90° to the floor.

 

[martin]

I would be a little concerned about shaft and u/j clearance at full droop/full lock.

 

[trail B2]

I wonder if you took A piece from A scrap dana 35 cut out A small piece of the used arm and slide the scrap with the lower ball joint mount in it into the new position and weld it in place if your lift isn't real high?that would give you more clearance at the front differential where you hang down anyway.What makes the u joint miss on say A 6'' lift

 

[CopyKat]

I would be a little concerned about shaft and u/j clearance at full droop/full lock.

There will be no issues of shaft clearance if you know what you need to do.

I wonder if you took A piece from A scrap dana 35 cut out A small piece of the used arm and slide the scrap with the lower ball joint mount in it into the new position and weld it in place if your lift isn't real high?that would give you more clearance at the front differential where you hang down anyway.What makes the u joint miss on say A 6'' lift

You'd be nuts to try to cut and turn for anything more than 3-4" of lift. Most of the desert guys use the 1.5"-2" drop brackets and cut and turn for the rest of their 4-5" lift.

Worst case your moving the lower joint out 1 1/8" to get it into check.

As for measurements it's 1 1/8" on the passenger beam and 7/8" on the drive beam. No clue for what lift height that is cuz most use coilovers, and those are height adjustable.

 

[trail B2]

I agree and was thinking of about 3'' because your going to get narrower as you go up too. What I was asking about was the drive line clearance because I havn't seen an RBV up close with A 6'' lift kit on it.Yuor going to laugh but with my 2'' body and 2'' spring shim i'm like the tallest RBV around here and my drive line is pretty close.

 

[4x4junkie]

I agree and was thinking of about 3'' because your going to get narrower as you go up too. What I was asking about was the drive line clearance because I havn't seen an RBV up close with A 6'' lift kit on it.Yuor going to laugh but with my 2'' body and 2'' spring shim i'm like the tallest RBV around here and my drive line is pretty close.

A bracket lift lowers that crossmember down more (or eliminates it entirely).

 

[sloue]

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Worst case your moving the lower joint out 1 1/8" to get it into check.

As for measurements it's 1 1/8" on the passenger beam and 7/8" on the drive beam. No clue for what lift height that is cuz most use coilovers, and those are height adjustable.[/QUOTE]

would YOU, Copy Kat start a set of c +t beams with these measurements s ... talked to a couple guys and got the , just cut them and pull your wheels strait. still in a Battle with my self if i should or shouldn't

 

[CopyKat]

.

would YOU, Copy Kat start a set of c +t beams with these measurements s ... talked to a couple guys and got the , just cut them and pull your wheels strait. still in a Battle with my self if i should or shouldn't

Personally No, I would not use those measurements. Again this is the right and only way to do it if your going to be running coil springs.

There is no set degree or measurement to follow.

I was told the way to do it is to mount the beams with the coils you plan to use. Measure the coil height. Pull everything apart. cut the lower ball joint seat out. Mount up the beams. Block the beam at the coil location with the coil height you measured earlier. With 0° bushings move the ball joint seat out untill your spindle mount is at 90° to the floor.

Your first mount up will be with the brackets you plan to use along with the beams and coils. All your doing is getting a baseline for the coil height, of the coils you are going to use. No other way around it. You want the camber/castor bushings as close to 0° as you can get them.

I'm really thinking of C&T my spare D35 beams I have and get rid of the drop brackets. Untill I do the D44.

 

[sloue]

Personally No, I would not use those measurements. Again this is the right and only way to do it if your going to be running coil springs.



Your first mount up will be with the brackets you plan to use along with the beams and coils. All your doing is getting a baseline for the coil height, of the coils you are going to use. No other way around it. You want the camber/castor bushings as close to 0° as you can get them.

I'm really thinking of C&T my spare D35 beams I have and get rid of the drop brackets. Untill I do the D44.

well thats exactly how a couple supposed desert guys have been telling me. but it seemed to me that it would be more of a technical thing. than just pulling the bottom joint out till its looks good. i realize it more to it than that but thats how it sounded to me wanted your in put thanks .

 

[CopyKat]

well thats exactly how a couple supposed desert guys have been telling me. but it seemed to me that it would be more of a technical thing. than just pulling the bottom joint out till its looks good. i realize it more to it than that but thats how it sounded to me wanted your in put thanks .

Not much technical to it. Just measure block and adjust. This way it's going to be right every time. Coil spring height varies so much that it's hard to guage what is the right measurement. Doing it the way i posted is going to get the best results and get you closer to the 0° bushings that is desired.

As an example on my current D35 beams the camber is all messed up. I have the 1-3.75° bushings. One side is at +3.5° and the other is at -3.75°

This could attribute to me running 4" drop brackets and 3.5" of spring lift.

Now if I was to put the stock brackets back on and do a cut and turn on the beams I could get it back to +1° on both sides.

I doubt the 1.125 and .875 measurements would get me to that point.

There is a reason you don't see measurements posted. There isn't any real numbers to go by. Not likely to have the same geometry and parts as the last guy.

Take it for what it is. It's not as easy as just pulling the joint out xx" and it will work for you.

 

[sloue]

[.

Take it for what it is. It's not as easy as just pulling the joint out xx" and it will work for you.[/QUOTE]

thats why its good to have a junk man for a close buddy get stripped beams for nota . but seriously been researching this for a long time. just turning rocks over now , to make sure you know. i still cant get the quote shit down sorry for being e-stupid

 

[CopyKat]

Let me know the results.

 

[Ranger#1]

so is it gonna be over an inch i just was hoping to be able to c&t my new beams on the ground before they go on the truck to minimise down time but dam an inch thats quite a bit of material should i cut the lower close to the ball joint or farther into the beam

 

[CopyKat]

should i cut the lower close to the ball joint or farther into the beam

I would cut further into the beam. Leave atleast an inch of beam between the cut and the balljoint block.