D28 Knocks and pops

[RangerNielsen]

shit... The rotor had races in it, so I figured all was well... guess not. time for another $80 for bearings... (these ones only have ~200 miles on them...

I have checked the tab on the washer before assembling, and it does not appear to be able to pop out of the groove, so I figured all was well, but re assembling it this most recent time, it moved quite a bit.

I finally got the axle out, (see pictures) and my spindle is FUBAR'd it looks like. perhaps not though.

What is a good tightness to put the inner nut if an inch pound torque wrench is not available?





Well

 

[RangerNielsen]

I can only seem to get the needle bearings, even the Ford dealer ship was a no go for everything else. And my u joints need rebuilding too...

 

[kryptonitecb]

Multiple guys I know run without the inner spindle bearings, however that's on trail rigs only for a street vehicle I would replace it. A local shop will have a press that can remove the remnants of that bearing.
The tech library (hint hint) says 16lbs, I would say snug the inner lock nut then get the outer nut as tight as you can.

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[4x4junkie]

Your spindle is done, that pic leaves no question at all about it. Junkyards are usually good bets for a replacement.
Yeah get those races gone out of those rotors, all they do is create headaches.


On the inner nut, you can retighten it good & finger tight after you've done the 35-ft-lbs and spinning the rotor to spread the grease dealio if you haven't got an inch-lb wrench (15-16 inch-lbs is the spec, it's not very much). Then put the lock ring on and torque the outer nut down (making sure the inner nut stays put). Even if the inner nut isn't quite to 15 in-lbs, as long as there's no play, it'll be fine. The big danger comes with them being too tight (or of course having mismatched races).

Sorry about your hassle, hopefully it goes better next time around.

 

[kryptonitecb]

I disagree, the races in the rotor are thicker than the ones matched with the bearings you get over the counter. In any other case I would say to use a matched set. If you use the bearing/race set the race will have a few thousands play in it and not stay seated in the rotor.

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[RangerNielsen]

Alright, so it sounds like I need a new spindle for sure. Bearings seem to be a personal preference whether I replace or repack. 35 ft-lb on the inner nut, do the spinny spinny of the rotor and loosen, then hand tighten, and put the outer on at a shit load of ft lbs. I need a new spindle, and all of its innards. Btw, this is only the passenger side, haven't had time to pull the drivers side yet. I have a few more local parts stores/machine shops to visit, see if I cant at all repair my spindle (doesn't look or sound like it [I face palmed my self when I finally got the spindle off and saw how truly messed up it was]). At this rate; I have done a little research, and if I go to a junk yard for parts, I think I am just going to do a D35 swap... This ranger will become a pavement princess and never see mud again after all this... haha

 

[4x4junkie]

I disagree, the races in the rotor are thicker than the ones matched with the bearings you get over the counter. In any other case I would say to use a matched set. If you use the bearing/race set the race will have a few thousands play in it and not stay seated in the rotor.

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Never have seen that issue myself. I'm betting you might've had a bad/worn rotor, or you got a defective bearing set.

 

[RangerNielsen]

Got my driver side spindle off today. Spindle had the inner needle bearings in it and seems to be in great shape. Ill try and get pictures tomorrow. then need a new set of national bearings, and then get my washers and such from rockauto (only place near me i can seem to find them) and put it all back together, again.

 

[RangerNielsen]

alright, so here are pictures of what I pulled off my driver side, and my drivers side spindle. That ring was on the c clip spot, but was bent. That other "thingy" was around my ABS sensor, and my passenger side did not have it.

 

[RangerNielsen]

Here is a picture of my passenger side axle. My picture for the drivers side isnt uploading.

 

[4x4junkie]

Your spindle's groove has a nick out of it (likely from the lock ring tab slipping over the threads). Yeah you'll need to do whatever you can to keep that from happening again. Typically there's enough depth in the groove that using the welder trick on the ring tab will work.

Otherwise you may need to get a new spindle.

 

[RangerNielsen]

I havent really had a problem with the drivers side yet. the hub still locked too but im trying to find spindles, but havent had any luck. I also didnt notice that nick the grove...

 

[RangerNielsen]

Alright. So I'm thinking about swapping my whole axle assembly off of my 88 into my 94. They both have 3.73 gears, and both d28.

88 axle. 4wd works well, and has OEM hubs, good bearings and is over all good shape. No sway bar or steering stabalizer, tie needs work, and no abs.
94 axle, I've got it torn down to the housing and steering knuckle pretty much. Shocks are blown, has steering stabilizer, away bars, and ABS, but the sensors were cut somewhere and I can't find the other end.

Is this a direct bolt over swap? What part would I need to salvage off the 94 to put on the 88 to make it work? I will be running 32s for a while.

Also, the 94 was involved in some sort of collision on the front passenger side. Pretty much only the fender was replaced, and I am having issues with the passenger side.

 

[RangerNielsen]

I guess I have a Dana 35 I have 10 bolts, a ribbed pumpkin, 27 spline axles, and the elongated diff. There's also the dent thing in the right side of the pumpkin. I can't find my stamp, but I do have some numbers engraved onto my axle housing, can't decipher what they mean. I think it was swapped after the accident since it has writing on the passenger axle shaft, and on the diff. That would also explain my different sized hubs.

 

[4x4junkie]

Maybe it wouldn't hurt to just go get a whole new frontend at a junkyard since you're having so many issues with it (or maybe at least the whole right side of it).

I wouldn't swap a D35 out for a D28 though.