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Crooked mechanic


partridgebrad

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I need a engine swap for my 2011 Ford Ranger Sport 4.0L v6. I purchased the used motor and had it shipped to a mechanic. As he continued to work on it the price went up with other repsird needed and do on. Long story short. He calls and tells me that the motor runs great but will only go in reverse
4 pages of trouble codes. When in the next day to look at My truck I reach back by the firewall and the main harness is not connected. Push it in and problem solved. Come to find out ac was not reconnected. Spark plugs are hoorible, heat shields never screwed On. Oil is like water and more more more. My question is my motor would start by remote Start only. Key would not work. Not I have not no illumination vehicle won't start and no accessories at all. Is it my ECU or any other answers. Thank you
 


lil_Blue_Ford

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Well, that’s not a good mechanic all around, not honest or qualified apparently. If he messed with the computer, remote start, etc, he could have screwed up the anti theft stuff. Without knowing exactly what he did or didn’t do, I can’t really say what the problem is though
 

RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

"Key would not work", explain a bit more
When you turn on the key do all the dash lights come on, including the CEL(check engine light) and the THEFT Light(looks like a padlock)?
Or does nothing happen, no lights?

And does the CEL stay on and the THEFT Light go OFF, or does the THEFT Light start to flash rapidly?
If THEFT light is flashing leave key on and wait 45-60 seconds, it will start flashing a 2 digit code, one flash, pause then 1 to 6 flashes, longer pause then repeat
Get that code, it will tell you why Key is not working

Whether the mechanic was in over his head is a moot point at this time, its one of those things you can't know until work is done, or in this case not done

So best to work the current problems until all are resolved
If engine runs computer is fine

Why did original engine need to be replaced?
Did you find the cause?
Engines don't just fail, there is usually a reason for it and if you didn't find it then next engine is doomed to fail
After 2004 the 4.0l SOHC engines were reliable
Used engine should have 2 new Motorcraft tensioners installed also new rear main seal
 
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4x4prepper

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> Oil is like water and more more more

Before you even try to crank the engine, change that right away, it may literally be water from a junk yard engine sitting exposed. Drain the oil and before putting the drain plug back in, pour oil through and see if you get clear oil out.

> Not I have not no illumination vehicle won't start and no accessories at all.

----> Disconnect <--- the negative battery cable, get under the vehicle and make sure the (+) wires are on the solenoid where they are suppose to be.

Then disconnect the positive wires at the battery, run a test clip from the (+) wires that were on the battery to under the truck to a DVM and check for continuity at the starter end.

If good, hook the (+) wires again to the battery. leaving the (-) disconnected. Now make sure the (-) wires from the battery that run to the motor and body are in place. continuity test again using a DVM.

Take a tester:


Place it between the (-) cable and (-) battery terminal. You should get a slight beep and a very faint light or none at all. If so, connect the (-) cable to the (-) terminal and try starting your truck.

I do not have a 2011 in front of me, I can only go by what is on my other Fords.

At this point, if your truck does not start, check to make sure the relays are plugged into the correct sockets. If they are, then check for blown maxi and then mini fuses.
 

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