2.3L ('83-'97) Cranks like hell but does not start.

[TruckTruck]

Hello to all-let me say thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. I have a 1997 2.3 Ranger with about 204,000 on the clock. In the past 3 weeks I have driven over 3k miles. Once I got back to my home state, I put another few hundred plus miles not it. It died one day after being on the interstate. No warning or nothing. Moved some relays around in hopes that I could get it to start. Got it towed and swapped out the fuel pump. Got it running again and it died 2X more times a couple days later. Towed again to my place. Parts I have changed in the last 6months:starter, plugs and wires, fuel filter X2, injectors and IAC. I have about 40PSI at the schrader valve and the old fuel pump has been verified that power is to it. Injectors I have taken a dummy light to the harness and with the key on got power. Assistance s appreciated as I wasn’t able to work for sometimes and am slightly strapped monetary wise. Thanks again y’all.

 

[RonD]

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
Key on/CEL on means Computer is powered up
Try to start engine, CEL should go OFF as soon as engine turns, means computer is getting a good Timing signal so will start spark and injectors
Crank sensor is the timing signal


50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine and try to start it
If it starts, runs and dies, you still have a fuel delivery issue
If its doesn't fire/start then no spark
50/50, instant results on what to check next

2.3l is an odd duck here, in that it has a Timing Belt that can slip or break, won't hurt engine but it will NOT START either
So no start in 50/50 test can be slipped/broken timing belt, look behind the cover to see if its there and moving when cranking

 

[scotts90ranger]

If the fuel pump is turning on and you have spark and injector pulse it's probably the timing belt... don't forget to line up the aux pulley too since a '97 does have a cam sensor and it's needed to run decent... one mark is a diamond one a triangle if memory serves...

 

[TruckTruck]

Timing belt was done about 5k miles ago. Changed crank and cam shaft sensors the other day. Just decided to check to see if any codes were loaded. Came back with a p1100. First time I’ve seen it. The pump I changed it a few days ago came with a secondary circuit fuel pump issue. Swapped back to the original pump and the code was gone. I’ve started it and floored the pedal to only have it hiccup and sputter and surge a bit. I’m guessing it could be a fuel thing let alone the newest code.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you floored it then the ecm goes into clear flooded engine mode. If it tries to start then there is fuel getting in that shouldn't.

 

[RonD]

Do 50/50 test and stop guessing

P1100 Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent
Wouldn't cause a No Start


Fuel pump "secondary circuit" means there was no 12volts detected at the inertia switch with key on, but just for 2 seconds
Not a fuel pump itself issue, its fuel pump relay issue or just a glitch from continually trying to start the engine

 

[TruckTruck]

If you floored it then the ecm goes into clear flooded engine mode. If it tries to start then there is fuel getting in that shouldn't.

It starts then dies pretty quick like. If I start it and try to keep it going by stepping on the accelerator that’s when it sputters and what not.

 

[TruckTruck]

Do 50/50 test and stop guessing

Do 50/50 test and stop guessing

I will try tomorrow with a friend and report back with info on both tests.

 

[TruckTruck]

I will try tomorrow with a friend and report back with info on both tests.

I sprayed some starting fluid into the engine with the same result. Cranks, starts then dies. I did not check the timing belt yet. That’s my plan for tomorrow. I did check my coil packs. I got an ohm reading of 7 for both with the connector unplugged. Checked 2 on each side of the plugs. Got a reading of 13.7 and 13.8 on that. I’ll report back again tomorrow after I check the belt. Thank y’all again for the assistance from afar. It’s appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Can you keep it running by continuing to spray fuel into the engine?

Not timing belt if engine starts, runs, and dies
And most likely not spark

Because its free, check the Vacuum line on the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR)
FPR looks like a small can, has a fuel line connected, Return line, and a Vacuum hose, check vacuum hose for gasoline, replace if gas is found
If FPR leaks, fuel is sucked into the engine via that Vacuum hose, causing it to Flood out

 

[TruckTruck]

Can you keep it running by continuing to spray fuel into the engine?

Not timing belt if engine starts, runs, and dies
And most likely not spark

Because its free, check the Vacuum line on the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR)
FPR looks like a small can, has a fuel line connected, Return line, and a Vacuum hose, check vacuum hose for gasoline, replace if gas is found
If FPR leaks, fuel is sucked into the engine via that Vacuum hose, causing it to Flood out

FPR had a new one installed a while ago though hung onto the old one(which is currently installed). I can try to swap it out for the newer one tomorrow since it’s only 2 bolts. As far as keeping it going, no. As soon as it catches it dies. I can try again tomorrow with the continuous spray.

 

[RonD]

Just check the vacuum hose, no need to change the FPR

 

[TruckTruck]

Vacuum hose was dry. Inlet/outlet from air intake looked a little gummy.

 

[TruckTruck]

Besides checking the cylinder head compression, anything else come to mind? I’m just curious what else it could be causing this issue.

 

[TruckTruck]

Turns out it was my MAF sensor.
Thanks for the suggestions y’all.