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Crank position sensor??? which one?

iank1

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so I have a '94 Ranger, 2.3l stick, California. the crank sensor has gone bad. I see that there are two choices with, and without a harness, but the sensor itself looks completely different from one another. which one am i supposed to use? I'm so confused.
 


RonD

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CKP(crank position) sensor is behind the lower(main) pulley, it comes with wire attached, this controls spark, when it fails you get a no start

CPS(cam position sensor) is up near the old distributor hole, it doesn't have wire attached, this control fuel injection timing, if it fails engine will run fine but MPG will be slightly less
 
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iank1

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OK, so I see on the cam sensor there is the sensor cap, and the whole synchronizer shaft. Why should I replace the shaft?
 

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My credo
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning.
Which condition are you having? No start, or start but has mileage (or other) issues? Cam sensor and Crank sensor are completely different.

1st post reply:
Take the crank sensor off and compare it to the new one. If the mounting dimensions are the same (same diameter end, same length, same mounting style), you should be good. Don't get rid of your old one until you're sure it's fixed.

OR, maybe what you're finding is a universal sensor, like a universal O2 sensor, where you cut your old connector wires and re-solder (or crimp, which you better take extra precautions to protect that joint!) the wires back together, and simply re-plug everything back in as normal. That might be what they refer to as "no harness".

3rd post reply:
I think I missed something?
 

RonD

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OK, so I see on the cam sensor there is the sensor cap, and the whole synchronizer shaft. Why should I replace the shaft?
You are looking at a 3.0l or 4.0l CPS.

2.3l just has a sensor that reads the oil pump gear since it is in time with Cam shaft.

CKP sensor is on the crank shaft in any case
 

iank1

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OK, sorry I wasn't clear. This is a 1994 2.3l from california, stick shift, no AC. I get no spark from the primary coil, the circuit is dead. I followed the test procedure to test the ICM (newish motorcraft unit) and the CKP sensor. ICM tests good, the CKP sensor tests bad. I figured since the truck has 200K plus miles I should replace the cam sensor (while I'm at it) since it's never gotten better than 20MPG since I've had it. I was wondering why I should replace the synchronizer shaft along with the cam sensor, but someone on another forum pointed out that worn shafts are what eat the cam sensors. So, I'll replace the whole thing.
 

iank1

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OH, and on the '94 2.3l trucks from california, they put the cam sensor on the dummy shaft where the distrubuter used to be. it's right next to the #1 spark plug under the intake manifold and ICM unit. 49 state trucks don't have it there. Lucky me.
 

RonD

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Oops, my mistake.

Yes, they did use distributor type CPS on some 2.3ls, '94-'97

yes, replace the whole assembly, they don't seem too expensive, listed on ebay for $35 new
 

iank1

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it wasn't so much the expense, I was just trying to find a shortcut labor wise.
 

4b316

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92-94 was the only years to have a cal.spec CPS.The 95+ engine were a different animal.Again,don't forget to check your upper left screw hole in the ign.module on the intake.I have seen a no start,running intermediate and quitting cause by a bad or not tight ground here.That is the only place on the whole module that gets a ground. On the race truck,we made sure it was clean,good bolt and even run another ground wire to the intake.Pull the shaft out and look at it,if not noticeably worn,leave it.
 

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