Crank but no start.

[SRD]

I posted a thread last week about my truck not starting at all. No Crank no start issue. Turn the key nothing. I traced that to the gear shifter on the dash. Tighten up that and it started right up. Thinking it did not know it was in park.

However, 2-days later all I get is cranking but no start. She cranks hard but will not turn over. So, now I am lost.

I tried to jump the truck and it will not jump either. I put a 12v battery charger on the battery and walked away.

Not really a pro but do some DIY. Any advice on where to begin would be appreciated.

Thanks.
SRD

 

[Brain75]

FYI fellow helpers, original thread: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/truck-will-not-start-or-starts-intermittently.210392/

Well that's progress, good solid cranking means you are past the battery or wiring connection mystery.

When it did run, right up until you started wrenching it ran fine right (ignore the starting, only talking about how it ran once started)?

and here is a list of everything you did (from the other thread):

(from post #10)

changed the ignition switch

(from post #21)

1. Changed Purge Valve

2. Removed Battery Cables and cleaned the post with a wire brush and baking soda. I did not open clamps and clean that I will try that in AM to be more complete.

3. Changed the Ignition Relay Switch under the dash - same work already done as post #10, right?

4. Checked Post to Post Volts drop test etc...working on that list still.

(from post #22)
tightened up the steering column shifter - fixing the park / neutral lockup switch. Solving the previous starting issue.

Have you done anything else?

Hook up and ODB2 and check for codes - is it throwing any code?

The basics, the very very 1896 basics... All engines require 3 things to run, Fuel Air and Fire.
So, we eliminate those 3 possible issues and then we hand it over to the computer gurus for modern computer wont let it start issues.

Air is kinda a given, there is almost nothing that will stop a vehicle from getting air - but check the air filter isn't 100% clogged or there isn't a piece of debris sitting across the intake completely choking it out. (even with air issues it will act like it wants to start catching once in a while - it sounds like yours cranks and that is it, not even catching).

Fire is an easy one - put a timing light on a cylinder spark plug wire, crank it and see if the light is flickering away - that typically means everything up to the spark plug is confirmed (not always, but it is a "good enough" test when the engine ran ok previously).. No flickering light = no spark signal... bad coil, distributor/electronic ignition module, COMPUTER is stopping it, etc.
You could also pull a plug and check the condition - if they have the electrode completely melted off kinda disaster or totally covered in soot then yeah you wouldn't have spark.

Fuel is also easy on carb, but throttle body / direct are a bit harder as they are harder to get into the fuel system. On an old carb I would just unhook the fuel line at the carb, point it into a clean gallon jug and crank for a few seconds - confim it spurts away and shoots lots of fuel into the jug while cranking. Before tearing into anything hunting I would ask, does it throw any codes? (P0193 - fuel rail pressure sensor) The computer has a sensor for everything, and codes will save you unhooking and hooking tons of stuff diagnosing.

One question asked in the previous thread but I didn't catch an answer you hear the fuel pump running when you first turn the key to "on"/run. With electric fuel pumps they pressurize up the system to full pressure at this stage, before you even start cranking. They make a distinctive whine you can hear on any vehicle that's got em.

 

[SRD]

Thanks for the reply!

Once I got the column shifter fixed it went back to normal. Turn-key, start, drive no issue. 2 days after this (this morning) I got out to start the truck and it cranked hard but did not turn over. I did this like 20 times until the battery went down and now have it on a 1A 12v charger.

*I am alone so I have no one to help me do things at this moment; but I am asking around for help. I hear the relay click when turning the key but can't hear anything else inside the vehicle. Will try to hear a fuel pump sound....

* I also noticed that when I turn the key and the truck is cranking the CEL light does not shut off. I can see it still flashing as it cranks.

** I put an OBD2 and it shows no codes. I got CAT and EVAP "X" marks rest got green check marks on other tests. I do not have a timer gun at this time. I will pull a spark plug and check like you said.

I am not super advanced so it takes me some time to digest things. I appreciate your suggestions and guidance.

Thanks.

 

[Brain75]

Ok, just so it is said, a SOLID check engine light is bad, a BLINKING check engine light is really bad. Solid means check it at the next stop, blinking means stop right now and figure out what is wrong asap.
Blinking check engine light during crank is an unknown to me - have never experienced that and don't know for sure, but just a hunch I would say the computer has recognized some big issue and it is the same as blinking during run - pretty important... I find it really hard to grasp there is no codes. Maybe clear all codes, unhook the odb2 check tool, try to start it, then hook the odb2 up again and look for new codes.

That said I would be really digging for any codes before" clearing all" - old codes tell you something and once you clear em they are gone.

Blinking Check Engine Light? Causes and Quick Fixes!

The flashing check engine light on your vehicle's dashboard is an unmistakable warning sign that should never be taken lightly. It's a vivid indicator of a potentially serious problem lurking beneath the hood, demanding your immediate attention. Ignoring this red flag could ultimately leave you st

www.diagnosticmechanic.com

Sidenote on the solid - these a-hole car manufacturers are getting to illuminate the solid for everything now.. windshield washer fluid low, turn on the CEL, gas cap loose, turn on the CEL.... so a solid is becoming less and less informative and urgent, but every resource I find says a blinking is misfire or other really really serious - with misfire being the most common and always generating codes.

The Check Engine Light: Common Causes and How To Fix It

A check engine light can spell trouble for your vehicle. Learn about common reasons this warning indicator may turn on, and what you can do to fix it.

www.aaa.com

Your odb2 scanner is at least a $20 unit right... they make these $5 scanners that do nothing but emissions now they wont read any codes except the 4 emissions related. Whether it is a $20 scanner or a $200 scanner it should tell you the diagnostic codes.

edit:typo

 

[SRD]

My OBD2 is not great but it does do codes. The CEL was on when this was going down so I assume when we removed the battery cables it reset everything maybe? Now it has no codes at all.....

Here is the video when I try to start of the dash lights when cranking...maybe this can help: Link: (57) October 4, 2024 - YouTube

I also attached a pic of where I have seen some gas come out at the bottom of the thing with the grey tip...maybe this is not right also?

Thanks for helping.....will remove the spark plug next soon and report back.

 

[Brain75]

That one little flicker is just a drop while it connects the circuit, that is not a flashing CEL.
The little grey thing looks to be a shrader valve cap cover - not the one that comes factory but that is a spot you can put a pressure gauge and see what the fuel pressure looks like.
Your model should have 60 psi fuel pressure during crank and run, if you have a helper you can check the pressure. (you do the under hood work and the girlfriend just gets in and cranks it when you tell her to.)
At rest the fuel pump does not hold high pressure it has a return line so the pressure drops back down, have to test during crank or run.

 

[SRD]

Ok, at this moment I do not have help or any gauges. So, I am trying to enlist help to do those tests. I hope by tomorrow.

*I went out to the truck and removed the black air line from the throttle body and sprayed starting fluid inside the throttle body. I tried to start it and it sounded like it was going to do it; almost turned over. So, I went out a few more sprays in and tried again.. the same thing; but never turned over just cranked. Never started even for a second. Tease.

*So this means no spark? So, I have a spark issue?

Thanks for the ongoing input.....it will get solved.

SRD

 

[Brain75]

If starting fluid gets it to catch then that sounds like a no fuel problem, if 'no spark' it would never try to catch at all unless you fixed the 'no spark'... now is it a bad fuel pump, filter, computer shutting off the fuel line... dunno. got to go through checking each of those things.
do you have a shrader stem removal tool (some valve stem caps even have the little slotted point to do it)?
Without even a tire gauge to check tires (you can use it on fuel line, just may shorten the life of the gauge if it gets a bunch of fuel in it), I would CAREFULLY and SLOWLY remove the schrader valve from that port and see if there is any fuel pressure (hiss / small spurt of fuel).. might even be tempted to turn it to "on"/run for 1/4 of a second to see if it spurts out.
Slowly so you don't get a face full of fuel or fling the stem core off into the astral plane.

The 2 metal caps at the bottom can be turned around reverse and used to screw the stem out of a shrader valve.
and when I say carefully I mean do not drop the tool or the stem insert - they will disappear into the bowels of the engine bay never to be seen again.

And uh, cough, uh are you sure you got gas in it - tank isn't bone dry? ... check the easy stuff first. Gauge is over 1/4 in your video, but got to ask is the gauge good?

 

[Brain75]

I don't hear your fuel pump running at all in your video... Don't know if you meant to pause before rolling on up to crank, but you did a nice job with a good pause which gives me a chance to listen... Anyone else with the same generation comment about how loud it is? My 2nd generation is unmistakable - loud as hell.

 

[SRD]

Yes, I just got $20 in gas before it died on me. A friend is coming later to help me analyze and be a secondhand.

*I went back out last night a few hours after I sprayed the throttle and it started right up...last 3-5 seconds and shuts down but it does startup now.

*When I turn the key there is a BEEP that I can't hear anything else like a Fuel Pump....I never tried to hear for it but with the beep when I turn the key I can't hear anything in the cab. Is the beep to far of a turn? I hear nothing otherwise.

So, I am going to do this today:

1. Remove Shrader Vavle and use a Tire gauge to test fuel pressure? I have the gauges in the image if those can work. Never done this before so learning.

Thanks for the ongoing guideance. I don't think I could ever figure this out without this site and your help.

SRD

 

[Brain75]

If you have a regular old plain jane tire gauge - bottom right of your pic (especially a cheap one that you don't mind shortening the life on - water/gas/any kind of fluid is hard on em as tire ones are designed for air with out a fuel resistant diaphram), no need to remove the schrader's core - just put the gauge on just like it was a tire, it is the exact same valve.

(fun fact 1920's model T has ONE part that is the exact same part 100+ years later in today's vehicles, I don't mean the grandparent or a similar part or or it is the EXACT same part - the schrader valve).

If you have a garage that's quiet, open the driver door and stand beside the vehicle while you roll the key forward to on/run - a super insulated cab and a bunch of dinger noise could hide it I suppose....

 

[Brain75]

Here's my 2nd gen for reference. I rolled the key from acc (2nd position) to on (3rd position) 4 times and each time that whine for about 1 full second is the fuel pump bringing the system up to pressure. There is also a relay click at the start of the cycle etc etc - and you can hear my keys and the noise of the lock cylinder but the whine that lasts 1 full second is the fuel pump.
You don't hear my dinger cause at 20+ years old it suddenly got really quiet - I would prefer it a little quieter than stock so haven't bothered to replace it.

1990 Ford Ranger Fuel Pump/Relays

1990 Ford Ranger Fuel Pump/Relays

youtube.com

 

[SRD]

Ok, my friend was not able to come over today. However, I am going to the store tomorrow AM to get the following: 1.) T55 Bit to remove truck bed? Is this the best-easiest way to replace a fuel pump? 2.) A fuel pressure test kit with an adapter that fits the Schrader valve stem. I read some kits don’t fit the Schrader valve so best to match so just going to Harber Freight to grab a cheap set. I have a little tire gauge in the pic but it is broken when I looked at it.......so thought Harbor Freight one was only $16.99 if it fits.

*I take it; it is like you said.....it’s going to be one of three things now....1.) Bad fuel pump...2.) Bad fuel filter...3.) The computer is stopping it for some reason......(Least likely?).

*The tough thing is looking up the parts for the pump assembly. I have a Flex V6 with a 126” Wheel Base XLT 4-Door. Not sure if other wheelbases will work but does that really matter or can I get any wheelbase as long as the pump is Flex Fuel?

*Would it be fair to replace the fuel filter first and see if she fires up.....lol? Could it be just that? I replaced it 3 years ago when I bought it just because it was cheap; just thought about it.....before I get the rest maybe swap the fuel filer real quick.......

*Still working on it Sensei.....
SRD

 

[Brain75]

Got a ball point pen? So this certainly doesn't tell you if you have full pressure or just "any" pressure... but just like flattening your ex's tires in the parking lot you can poke tip of the schrader with a ball point pen or something similar "to let a little air out" just to see if it has any pressure. Obviously big safety caveats, it is 60psi of gasoline if it is full pressure working correctly - spurts out pretty good. Take appropriate measures so you don't end up with a face full of gas/burn the garage down/etc.

To get to the pump directly some of the years it is easiest to remove the bed, some of the years you have to drop the tank (as the pump + retainer +etc is half under the cab and half under the bed so pulling the bed doesn't free it enough to get to it).

Take your VIN to oreilly/zone/advanced/etc - they will the the right part first try if they have your VIN (can probably do that with the usual scumbags online too - rockauto/partsgeek/etc).
Heck find the part number using geek first, then you know oreilly is getting the right part and their price is reasonably close to the online guys.

Cart before the horse though, don't need to buy a pump (they are kinda spendy) till you have even a reasonable belief it is the pump. You listened to my youtube - does this sound familiar or is your fuel pump dead silent? Hell no need to spend $17 on fuel rated gauge as the $5 tire one will work and last 5-10 years, just know you have shortened its "30 year" life...

Checked the fuse on the fuel pump circuit... all this headache could just be rattling loose over time - the steering column, the fuse, a connector somewhere in the fuel pump wiring.

Some of Harbor Fright's tools are complete trash and break on the first use... I bought a power steering pump pulley puller and their door skinning kit from there and was completely happy with it - why, not one moving part and nothing electrical. A gauge, a piece of circuitry, anything that cheap chinesium can fail before you even finish the 1st job.. I would really consider strongly picking somewhere else and saving the $$ for more tools, dates with the little filly, etc.

I took my bed off (actually just up 8 inches) to fix my fuel pump, and yeah it was a T55 on the 2nd gen - pretty sure the same all rangers.

 

[Brain75]

Got another thought since you mentioned in the first thread that you do have PATS. Are you using real genuine ford keys or amazon/ebay/china keys? I ask because the 2007 in the family wouldn't start yesterday just crank and crank away.... that was using the 2nd key - an amazon key (came with one genuine key and one amazon).... tossed the amazon on the desk and tried the factory OEM and it started right up.