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Correcting my suspension


pentode

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Which do you guys think would be best for me keeping in mind I'm working on grass and the isn't a perfectly level piece of ground in sight lol.
I haven't seen the other thread yet and I don't know what your jackstands look like, but when I need to work on sand or soft ground, I like to use a section of thick (3/4" or more) plywood under each jackstand - at least twice as wide as the base of the stands- so there's no chance of them sinking in or tilting.
Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but better safe than sorry.

I also agree that It's probably better to lift incrementally than stress any one corner too much. And use extra stands and jacks as backups. You can never have too many IMHO.
 
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JJMaine

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I have a stack of rough cut 1x12’s that I use under my jack and wherever I put the stands. I previously ony had small 3 ton stands but got some bigger 6 ton jack stands today.

You guys know how it goes. You dont need to twist my arm too hard to buy new tools. Still cheaper than paying someone else to do the work for me (and rolling the dice on whether its done correctly).
 

Uncle Gump

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I know there was talk of thinking your front suspension was maxed out.

I said I would get a picture of my junk to show angles.

I'm about to put the heavy t-bars in... add a winch... gonna have to move my lights and I wanted comparison photos anyway.

This is with my RC lift keys and one inch over the factory upper limit. Which is one and a half inches over optimal.

Gives you something to compare angles with yours.

20240803_182928.jpg
 

JJMaine

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Thanks! Yours does look taller than mine from the front but the bumper may be throwing me off. The truck does ride a million times better with the slight drop in the front and new shocks.

I'm optimistic that after I drop the front and rear another inch each and install the new rear shocks that it will be even better. I think my main issue was the front shocks because it rides pretty good now just a little stiff from the crank on the torsion keys I guess. Just waiting for the pre keys to arrive so maybe I'll get it done this weekend.

Just found that I have a water leak somewhere on my passenger side so need to address that ASAP though. The truck that keeps on giving 😩
 

JJMaine

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So I did my rear shackles today as well as new rear shocks. As Uncle Gump suggested I got some 6 ton jack stands that worked great.

I ended up jacking up the rear until the tires were only about 6" off the ground, jack stands under the frame (about mid way) and after taking the rear tires off I had enough clearance to drop the axle enough. Nothing to it!

Flipped the shackles as Eric mentioned and put the bolt in the top holes to drop the rear a tad. Also installed the bottom bolts correctly so they don't drag on the hitch assembly now. Truck sits level at around 36" now (ground to fender).

Next weekend I will swap to the new pre keys I got so that I can drop the front to 35" and then should be good to go. Prob another alignment too. I do think that the shackle bolts scraping the hitch was causing a rough ride because it does feel better now. Either that or the new shocks helped but the old ones I took out seemed fine. After seeing the condition of the front shocks I wasn't taking any chances. I forgot to order new bushings which I meant to but can swap those later if needed.

Also a photo to show the dramatic difference between the pre keys and the RC 1.5" keys. It would take you A LOT of turns to get the Ford key to match up with the RC key and considering 4 turns on my truck equates to about an inch in height change!
IMG20240811165534.jpg
IMG20240811165556.jpg
IMG20240811165751.jpg
 

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