Correcting my suspension

[JJMaine]

I got my torsion bar tool, lift keys and shocks today and decided to put the shocks on. The drivers side shock went POP when I took it out and came completely apart!

Obviously that kind of lift with stock length shocks was NOT a good idea and no wonder the truck rides terrible!

Hoping these extended Ranchos will feel better, I'll take it for a spin this afternoon and see.

It looks like the 1.5" keys are the exact keys that my truck came with so I will return them but do have a set of pre keys on the way. I did manage to back my torsion bars off another 3 turns each so that should help some as well. Who knows, I may even be happy with how it rides now...

After seeing the condition of the front shocks I will definitely order some rear shocks!

 

[JJMaine]

Quick questions. How much do you guys tighten down the top nut on the front shocks? Just until the rubber bushings start to compress?

Also, what website would you recommend to buy a factory service manual? I was going to get a Haynes but I know that the Ford manual will be best. I plan to just keep it on my laptop and just print sections out when I need them. Thanks!

 

[pjtoledo]

ebay for manuals, I've purchased several with good results.
the top bushings should be slightly compressed, don't over do them.

when it's on the ground check the sway bar ends, they should be level.
the pics of the suspension at full droop show the sway bar trying to twist the top off the end links because it's so far down in the arc.

 

[bobbywalter]

truck will likely ride acceptably now then if shocks were maxed.


nice if that is the case

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks, I did slightly compress the bushings. I'll run out and check those sway bars here in a little bit. What to do if they aren't sitting level? Does that mean they were damaged from the super cool lift my truck came with?

Just went for a drive and it's MUCH better. After a 10 ride, my truck sits at 37" in the rear and 36" in the front. I think after the new keys and dropping the shackles and inch to set it level at 35". The ride should be that much better. Honestly I could live with it now as is but I wouldn't mind it if it was just a little less stiff.

After the new front shocks, I could definitely feel that the rear now needs some improvement.

 

[JJMaine]

It is a lot better Bobby. I think now I'm just dealing with the normal stiffness that comes with the torsion lift.

I do still have some bump steer but have read somewhere that all Rangers suffer from that to some extent? I notice that the truck has very light steering so maybe that contributes?

 

[pjtoledo]

the ends of the sway bar swing in an arc, at the extremes there can be a considerable angle against the end links.
that tries to twist the ends off. the lift moves the end links down creating more angle.
adjusting the length of the end links will minimize the bad angles. that is, longer bolts 'n bushings.

 

[JJMaine]

Ahh, I see to basically set those closer to where they were when stock. Thanks!

I might be replacing most of that stuff anyways just as preventative maintenance. After the shellacking the front end has been taking for who knows how long. When I do, I'll be sure to get advice so I can do it right

 

[JJMaine]

In my other thread, Eric gave me a couple options to lift the rear to change my shackles height and fix the bottom bolts.

Either, put the frame on jack stands high enough to unload the rear and use a jack to lift the rear axle to take tension off the shackle bolts or, leave the wheels on the ground and jack the frame up just high enough to unload the shackles.

Which do you guys think would be best for me keeping in mind I'm working on grass and the isn't a perfectly level piece of ground in sight lol. I'm thinking leave the wheels on the grounds and lift the frame but can I do that one side at a time? Jack one side up and remove the shock and shackle (i'll be replacing the rear shocks as well) or do both sides need to be unloaded at the same time?

 

[2011Supercab]

or do both sides need to be unloaded at the same time?

Yes, or there will be to much of a bind on the bolts to get the out.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I like to support the frame in front of the front spring hangers with rear tires off the ground. Then use the floor jack under the diff to unload the the axle weight from the shackle bolts.

 

[JJMaine]

Ok thanks. I'm just trying to think of a safe way to do that at home. I have watched videos where they jack the rear up way off the ground by the differential to get jack stands high enough under the frame and I don't dare do that on uneven ground.

I wonder if I should get one of the attachments for my jack that grabs and lifts both frame rails at the same time as well as bigger jack stands? Then I could lift the rear up evenly?

I suppose I could go back and forth lifting each side and raising my jack stands in increments. Pain in the butt I guess but whatever gets the job done.

 

[Uncle Gump]

My 6 ton jack stands are tall enough... my 3 ton not so much.

Just be really careful...

Even firm ground... put it in 4wd and in park... chock both front tires. Use common sense.

 

[SenorNoob]

Not saying it's right, but when I did the front axle at home I managed to find a place that was at somewhat level side to side and jacked the truck up one side at a time (by the frame)until the tires were off the ground.

 

[JJMaine]

Yeah that's what I'll probably end up doing. When I see them lifting the rear of a Ranger in videos, they lift that thing WAY up in the air to drop it down on jack stands. I don't dare try that. When I lifted the front by the cross member, the right tire was 4 inches off the ground before the left started to come off the ground and that's on the most level spot I can find.

I'll get it done, I dont know how yet but I will. If it takes me all weekend that's still better than having an accident.

Went and picked up some 6 ton jack stands this morning.