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SOLVED: Coolant in oil opnions on whats next


Uncle Gump

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rusty ol ranger

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LOL its funny, I clicked that link you posted and went down that rabbit hole for a little while the other night. That would be sooooo cool.
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OK, so I re-did the LIM gasket and I re-timed the engine. I now have a surging idle that I didn;t have before. I really don't think I have a leak in the LIM seal, I was super thorough and careful. I wonder if I need to disconnect the battery so the ECM can re-program? Who knows at this point...lol I have been looking at new 302s...
 

ecgreen

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So like an idiot I dove back in today to figure out whats up. I cleaned the IAC, and even swapped in a newer and cleaner one that helped a little but did not solve the problem. I then did a vacuum test and I got a fluctuating needle between 15 to 16hg (maybe more of a swing). From what I read, this suggests I need to adjust the timing. However, I can't move the distributor enough to get the needle on the gauge up into the 20s. Any help on this one? I really don't think I have a vacuum leak, I must have sprayed a whole can of starter fluid looking for leaks and nothing.
 

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Are you adjusting the timing with the spout disconnected?
 

ecgreen

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Are you adjusting the timing with the spout disconnected?
Yep. It has gotten worse. Now unless I rotate the dist all the way it won't start at all. Even then it surges three or for times and quits. Without the spout in I can't get it to start.

Another wierd note: with the engine off, when I rotated the distrib all the way I heard a mechnical device turn on (almost like a fuel pump sound). I did this a number of times, but now I can't recreate that sound. What is the deal with that???

As always, thanks for helping the FNG
 

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When you turn the distributor manually with key ON engine off you are causing TFI module to send a PIP(ignition/spark pulse) to the coil and computer
i.e. instead if the rotor/shaft turning, the whole distributor is turning around it so same thing, pulse is sent

Make sure rotor is turning when cranking engine, if so then the hall effect sensor in the distributor may be the issue
Assuming its a spark issue
50/50 test will tell you that
 

ecgreen

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RonD - thanks for the distributor lesson...makes sense.

I'll check the rotor next...

Its starting again and running, but very rough and back to the surging idle. I have half a mind to just find TDC again and do the initial timing from scratch.
 

ecgreen

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Re-did the timing this morning. Found TDC and went from there. It ran fine for about 5 minutes. I went to do the final timing, with spout out, and it started the surging again. Shut it off and it would not start. Tried for awhile, finally started, but with the horrible surging again. Its weird that it started fine and then went to crap. NOt sure where to go from here except a garage or park the thing until i can afford a new engine.
 

ecgreen

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So the plot thickens...I neglected to mention that when I swapped the LIM I also put in new reman'd fuel injectors. I pulled a spark plug and it was coated with carbon dust. This would mean running rich right? I think it is possible my ebay special injectors suck.
 

ecgreen

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It WAS the G.D. injectors!! I tore it apart again today and put in the old ones and she idles just fine now. Sonz a B's selling crap on ebay. Anyhow, buyer beware. There is a slight miss in the engine, but it is back to "normal" which is good. I won't post this thread as solved until I drive 50 or so miles and see if the coolant and oil stay separated.
 

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Wait a minute...Ebay sells bad products? The hell you say!!!!
 

ecgreen

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Well done

Thanks for the update and THE FIX


The older you get the more you realize that you know LESS than you thought, lol

This is why teenagers and young adults KNOW EVERYTHING, because their world is so small they are correct in this assumption, but really really WRONG, at the same time :)
 

ecgreen

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Well I have put 100 miles on her and no coolant in the oil as far as I can tell. Problem SOLVED...for now...
 

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