• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Coolant Flush: OLD hoses or New?


fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
1,044
Reaction score
114
Points
63
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Vehicle Year
99
Make / Model
XL Spurt
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0 (Flex)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
That is, when it's time for new coolant AND HOSES, are the various chemical flush agents hard on hoses? i.e. should you do the flush first, THEN install the new hoses? Or do the old hoses just keep decomposing, and you never get clean water coming out? What say ye RKIs?
 


ericbphoto

Overlander in development
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
15,297
Reaction score
16,528
Points
113
Age
59
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I would think that the flushing agents are made to be safe for the hoses. I would replace hoses based on age of truck or odometer reading or general appearance. Personally, and these are just guess numbers, i would replace hoses at or before 10 years or if high mileage (150k or more?). Also, if they show signs of cracking, leaking, clamps cutting into them, etc.

I haven’t looked lately. But there may be some guidelines in the maintenance section of the owner manual. Might be ultra conservative. But that wouldn’t be a bad idea to follow.
 

RobbieD

2.9l Mafia
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
3,865
Reaction score
3,433
Points
113
Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
1984,1990,1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
I've caught up on cooling system maintenance on two of my old trucks this year, which included flushing both. They were in need of attention anyway; one needed a heater core, the other a water pump. As far as I know, the flushing agent does not harm the hoses. Here's some thoughts from doing mine.

Heater hose is relatively cheap, so I just replaced all of those (estimate your total and buy one long length- cut to fit). I evaluated the more expensive molded hoses, and as they were in very good shape I just cleaned the inside as good as I could and reused them. If they would have had any defects they would have gotten replaced, too. Questionable hose clamps got replaced.

I ran the flushing solution for a few days, then ran several refills of just plain water, each for a few days to a couple of weeks, to rinse out the flush solution and to remove as much remaining crud as I could get out.

One thing I do like to do is pop the lower radiator hose to drain the system. I don't think that the dribble out of the radiator petcock lets the crud flush out good, versus the way it really pukes out when you pop the lower hose. After running the truck and it's been at the normal operating temp, park it and let cool enough to not be pressurized, and not be scalding hot, but still good and warm.

I also use silicon gel inside my hose ends; that keeps the rubber from bonding to the inlets, outlets and metal nipples. That helps a lot, as you need to pull several hoses to get a good drain, and to get a good refill with the least amount of trapped air.

After several clean water refills, and it's gotten to where the water is draining clear with no sediment seen in the bottom of the drain pan afterward, only then does it get the 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water mix.

It does take some effort, and time, to do it this way, but I think that it's well worth the results. You're doing good to be thinking ahead on this.
 

DILLARD000

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2020
Messages
877
Reaction score
652
Points
93
Location
Earth
Vehicle Year
2001 Ford
Make / Model
SportTracJob2
Engine Size
V6~4.0L~SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
^+++
Great tips\comments by EricB & RobbieD above.
I've generally replaced all Cooling components, excepting the HeaterCore, about every 75k~100kMiles, with good results.
That includes all hoses+clamps, the pump, the belt, & especially plastic items.
If you can, replace any plastic with stainless\aluminum components:
HoseTees, HeaterControlValve, the notorious PlasticThermoStatHousing & PlasticTankedRadiator,...
could very well save you a road side breakdown.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top