2.3L ('83-'97) Coil Packs

[Manual_Man]

Hi,
My 2.3 1994 Ranger got a new reman head. Everything is perfect with that. I however have mid range speed in the city small stumbles. No power loss and no other symptoms. This not being OBDII I have a question.

One of my coil packs looks perfect the other as well. Ohms test are fine. My symptoms lead to coil pack. So here is what I found and wondering if it can be an issue or is it designed to be able to do what I say next.

The intake side coil pack is solid everywhere. The exhaust side coil pack where the electrical connector plugs in is movable like a plastic lid on a plastic case. I know it should be solid but since it seems to be hinges was wondering if that could be the stumble issue when the vehicle is moving or does it not matter based on the design?

Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Try this test, warm up engine first, and shut it off

Unplug the intake coil pack's 3 wire plug
Start engine
If you have a steady misfire then one of the spark plugs or its wire is bad on the exhaust side, maybe the coil pack, but usually a spark plug or wire

Unfortunately the 1989-1994 2.3l disables the intake side coil pack when cranking, so you can't start engine with exhaust side unplugged
So start the engine and then using a pair of insulated pliers or ??, unplug the exhaust side coil pack's 3 wire connector

Same test for intake side plugs and wires


There is a bit of misinformation out there about the dual spark plug systems, they ADD POWER so BOTH spark plugs in each cylinder fire at the same time, its not an emissions thing, there is no alternating
The 2.3l engine ran fine from 1974 to 1988 on just 4 spark plugs, and it will still run fine on 4 spark plugs, it just runs better using 8
Like Dodge Hemi does
The reason it wasn't used in more engines was 4 valves per cylinder added even more power, so a better use of head space in OHC engines

 

[Manual_Man]

Thanks, will try during the day tomorrow if not raining all day.

Thanks.

 

[Manual_Man]

Okay here are most results.

First the vehicle will start with either coil disconnected.

For the test with the exhaust unplugged it runs just perfect. That was actually the coil in question since it had the wobbly plug. When I ran with just the intake in place it is rough overall. Did not sound lick a specific miss but kind of odd.

Lastly with just ignition it triggered the CEL. I am going out now as I have an IIIV reader to pull codes.

Thanks.

 

[Manual_Man]

Here are the codes.
It appears they are related to coil packs being unplugged. Certain diagnostics disabled, one was low volt to mass air but there is a capicator in line with the coil pack wording.

One code said was running in fail mode.

So here are the codes.
KOEO
157 218 222

KOER
998 218

In KOER mode I did not get the engine cylinder number indicator, and did not get prompt to do the accelator response test.

Before testing the vehicle was code free as I tested before putting out the post.

The coils ohm test.
Ignition
1/4 13.93
2/3 14.06

Exhaust
1/4 14.11
2/3 13.86

All 4 primary at .06

Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Just FYI, you can test if a coil is bad, any coil, but you CAN NOT test if a coil is GOOD

Coils work at low OHMs and high Volts, so can test as "OK", not good, just "OK" or can test as bad
So there technially is no way to test for a Good Coil

There was a "disable" intake wire on earlier ICMs, always wondered if Ford removed that, I guess they did for sure on 1994
1995 and up didn't have that at all, or an ICM, lol

 

[scotts90ranger]

Maybe it's a California model with a cam sensor? That would explain the difference in that versus some others...

It does sound like a bad connection in the coil, if it's in question I would replace it...

 

[RonD]

Its strange, I looked up my 1994 2.3l diagram, it shows the inhibit circuit for intake side coil pack

Just goes to show ya, never trust the internet, lol

 

[Manual_Man]

Thanks, so are you saying yes swap out the coils? If so what is your take on aftermarket coils or should I just stick with OEM for about twice the price?

Also yes this is a California model. I don't know why but when you buy a Ford in Florida it normally has a California setup. Warm weather I guess.

I do plan to keep for awhile. 1 owner bought new 11/93. Still original, excellent interior, could use paint some day. Only rust is surface rust on frame.

Also as a side note 250k original coils.

 

[sgtsandman]

Generally speaking things that make the engine run are best kept to OEM parts when it comes to Rangers. Aftermarket, while they may work, generally do not work long. Not exactly sure why that is but it seems to be the trend we all see here.

 

[Manual_Man]

Generally speaking things that make the engine run are best kept to OEM parts when it comes to Rangers. Aftermarket, while they may work, generally do not work long. Not exactly sure why that is but it seems to be the trend we all see here.

I edited my last post, but I agree I go oem when possible all the way to the pdf valve.
Just never had to replace a coil before so was just wondering.

Thanks.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'd just do the one that has an issue, no use replacing both if only one has a problem...

 

[Manual_Man]

Well it's confirmed. Had a little time between outer rain bands of hurricane.

Anyway decided to try the suspect exhaust coil on intake side. Ran great, so original coil on intake side is bad. That however is the side with the moving connector which has cracked the upperpart of the coil housing. Looking close you can see the extended part of the connector pins. Any water will short it out.

So 2 new oem coil packs it is.

 

[Fredness]

Looks like I missed this one...
If you still need them, cover shipping - I got 2 good used units you can have...

 

[Manual_Man]

Hi,
Thank You for the offer. I did need the coils and ordered from Amazon. Put them on Monday AM. Truck runs perfect.

Best vehicle I have ever owned. It's actually a one owner. I have another project that I may do this spring. That will be wheel bearings at same time as I do rear fluid change.

Thanks for your help.