cobbled together POS..

[cody93]

wait a sec, i thought the weber could only be tuned by swapping jets?!? except the idle screw. i think its running too lean, seems to fall on its face alot but when the 2nd barrel opens up it comes to life when at crusing speeds, but it has a hard time taking off, it'll back fire and stall out, dagerous when trying to pull out onto the highway.. well, first thing is to get the timing set right and work from there.

 

[Mark_88]

You may just have a plugged jet on the primary...mine ran like a carp doing the same thing...would not run until WOT and then I pulled the top off and found some teflon tape stuck in the primary jet...cleaned that out a few times...don't use teflon tape on your fuel lines...lol

Just be a bit careful about pulling the top off because the float and needle assembly are a bit delicate...with a bit of practice you can get real good at doing roadside jet cleaning when needed...

You may not even have any adjustments...but I just read a few posts on that carb and they can be adjusted...but, apparently, they are one of the hardest carbs to fine tune for some reason. According to one poster there are both primary and secondary adjustments on them...that's why I suggested the ARRC (the link is in the Submit Articles for Tech Bulletins near the top)...I went there and couldn't find the images but I'm pretty sure they are in there somewhere...just have to know what years Ford put them in and what models used them (if any).

Otherwise, try to search for Weber carb tuning...there was a YouTube link to one but I lost it when I found something that looked more interesting...

 

[Mikel89us]

there is an idle air screw on the primary barrel. Its tiny, but its there. And the secondary should not have an idle air mixture screw because its shut completely when its not in use. A good baseline for idle A/F is turn in all the way turn out 1.5 turns. If it still runs bad turn it out some more, if it gets better you should get some gaskets and pull her apart and check the condition of the main jet. If its partially clogged it will run lean on the primary. Lean will cause a hesitation. That is why when you go to a racetrack and notice guys running very rich at idle. A rich mixture helps throttle response.

 

[cody93]

ok, made some progress, aparently my temp gauge is functional after all... it would never go above C, i had some heat. well, i stuck some card board over the rad and it heated up, once it got warm, it ran surprisingly good, no stumbling or backfireing and had power.

tommorow i take the water pump out and check the T-stat, once i get it to heat up on its own im betting it'll run better, the carb was cleaned out before i stuck it on the truck but i'll check the jets again..

 

[Mark_88]

Oh, you mean you didn't warm it up before? That should make a bit of difference, but backfire is not usually associated with cold...although mine does backfire a bit when I try to drive it without warming it up properly...so maybe you're OK...

Make sure you burp the system properly after you top it up...unless you have one of those "jiggle" thermostats...

 

[cody93]

well crap, now more goodies, after putting fresh coolant in, i get brown stuff coming out when i change out my water pump and t-stat.. hopefully it was just crap from the over flow tank. but when i filled it up i used some old and some pre-mixed new coolant, i filtered the old stuff with a cheap paper filter and it got alot of brown stuff. cant tell if its oil or not, my oil is fine and not going down, minus blow by, it never gets hot enough.

when i drained it to do my wp and t-stat, ther was a lot of sediment on the bottom of the bucket, mabey theres more, tommorow im gona drain, flush with water, drain, water and CLR, drain and fill with distled and drain and refill with fresh premixed coolant.. sounds like someone used stop leak once before.. the t-stat housing had a crappy homemade RTV gasket before i dissasembled it, mabey thats why they could of put that stuff in..

 

[19bonestock88]

Yeah, im still getting brown stuff out of my truck... Probably flushed it like 50 times with water and each time i get even more brown stuff... i eventually stopped and just filled it and drove...

 

[cody93]

well, i think im all clear now, my coolant is still green now, but i think my t-stat isn't sealing properly as my heater hoses and rad hoses heat up almost the same time and same temp. its got an aftermarket housing that didn't seem like a good fit to the t-stat.

 

[Mark_88]

I was getting discolouration in my fluid...when I changed out the rad two years ago I filled it with new green stuff and haven't touched it...when I did the head two weeks ago the fluid was still nice and green and had only a few small flecks of gunk in it...

My point, I guess, is that if you are just flushing and not changing out the rad you may get quite a bit of that brown stuff...now that I have the old head off I will take a closer look inside the coolant passages to see if there is much in there...didn't think about flushing the rad separately when I had it, but I'm pretty sure most of the gunk is in the rad itself...

 

[cody93]

i flushed my rad out when i had it out, plus the heater core too since i replaced all the hoses. next project is to make me a hill billy AFR gauge. basicly a one wire o2 sensor from the bone yard and AA batter tester... to see what my carb is doing, cant tell for sure, seems lean on primaries and too rich on secondary. probly gona get me a carb kit and a jet kit for it. oh heres an odd one, why is my engine developing vacuum through the crank case? its sucking air in from the oil fill cap and PCV valve, like the oppisite of blow by, i have no smoke nore am i burning any coolant.

 

[cody93]

ok, mabey im stupid but i think my autozone water outlet's hole is too big for the thermostats ive been getting... they dont snap into place and wiggle around and dont seal up all the way, if i put water into the outlet, i can watch it drain into the block, not a good seal... grr, all i get is somewhat hot heat, not hot as it should be... probly were most my running problems are coming from...

 

[Mark_88]

Do you have a picture of the outlet? I have an extra one that has a bit of rust on the end of the heater hose outlet but otherwise worked fine...I just put in a different one because it wasn't rusted at all...

If it is not the right outlet that could be a big part of your heat problem...I can send you the extra one if you can't find the proper one...any 2.x water outlet should work properly...

My t-stat fits snugly into the outlet...also have an extra t-stat but not sure if it works or not...it should be fine because the engine I took it out of was not over heating...

 

[cody93]

i'll pull her out tommorow and go hit up autozone, im sure they have a t-stat that will fit snuggly.

 

[jjred1977]

I really like the Weber Carb you have on your engine. I thought I was the only one who had done that conversion to a 2.0 Ranger.