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Clutch switch not engaging and clutch not fully releasing


numberjack

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Truck info: 1999, 3.0, 4x4, manual, 190k miles

For a while now, my clutch pedal has been going to the floor and it's gotten increasingly more difficult to go between 1st and reverse. I was thinking that I would start with bleeding the system, removing the transmission, shooting myself, etc.

After pulling the truck into the garage and making a different repair, I go to start it and it won't turn over. No clicking. All electrical is good though. I found that this is because the clutch interlock switch isn't being engaged. If I reach down and pull the switch up and turn it so that it's not seated correctly, the truck will start. After pulling the switch and testing with a multimeter (it seemed ok) I replaced it anyways. Still doesn't start.

The problem seems to be that the push rod just isn't travelling nearly far enough to engage the switch. With the pedal to the floor, I still need to pull the switch up 0.5" to get the click.

I did a bit of searching for cracks on the pedal assembly but haven't found anything yet. It there something else that could be causing this? Could this also be why the pedal goes to the floor?

Thanks,
Will
 


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RonD

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Can you pull the clutch pedal up more after your foot is off it?

Picture of clutch pedal assemble here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1995-2006-Ford-Ranger-Clutch-and-Brake-Pedal-Bracket-Assembly-OEM-/391141541262?fits=Make:Ford

There should be an "orientation" clip on the Master and a pin on the clutch switch that locks into the clip, that holds the switch on the Master, push rod slides thru center of switch and when pedal is down far enough it pushes switch into Master and closes it.
Diagram here: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/36j3o-94-ford-ranger-click-noise-when-turn-ignition-bump-clutch-solenoid.html

You may be able to put a rubber grommet at the top of the pushrod, so pedal to the floor closes the switch, but that just a temp fix.

For some reason you are not getting full travel of the Pedal/Master assembly

There is a bushing at the top of the pedal arm
Push rod ball on the pedal
Or Master has moved
 

Andy D

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Firewall flexing ?
 

numberjack

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The pedal only moves up a little bit. No more than 1/4" at the end of the pedal. This seems like a normal amount to me.

The switch is seated correctly - I'm just not getting full travel of the pushrod. I could put a grommet on the pushrod, as RonD suggests, or something underneath the switch in order to hold it up. This only fixes the switch issue though and I still don't get full release of the clutch.

Haven't yet found any cracks or in the pedal assembly and the firewall seems to be solid.

This has me very stumped.
 

Mark_88

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Firewall flexing ?
On first gen Rangers this might have been an issue (and was with mine) but at some point the designers changed the way the clutch master is seated...probably to solve the flexing floor...and they mounted the master on the brake booster moulding so that it sits off the firewall...

I know my 96 had this setup and I transferred that bracket into the 88 cab when I did the dash swap...

The clutch interlock can be bypassed for testing (and I did it on my truck)...it's a safety feature but after driving standard for most of my life and long before these features were available...it was "natural" for me to engage the clutch before turning the key...but mostly just popping it into neutral worked...

Jumper the two bottom most wires with a U shaped wire...tape it in place if you want a longer lasting fix...sounds like it is not necessarily the switch though...make sure the switch is attached to the base of the master...there is a small plastic clip that holds it in place and without that the switch doesn't actually stay where it should and cannot function the way it should...

Going from memory on that...but that was a problem on the 96 also...the clip broke off and I could not keep the switch in the lower area where it would normally engage and enable the starter.
 

numberjack

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wrong or bent pedal?

After looking at many pictures and videos of other pedal assemblies, I'm thinking now that I either have a very bent clutch pedal or the wrong one altogether.

You can see in the attached picture that the clutch pedal is angled sharply away from the brake pedal. Note that I've now removed the master cylinder. This did not affect lateral movement of the pedal. The pedal does not move side to side.
 

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Mark_88

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Ah, yes, the old bend the clutch pedal arm trick...

Well, they are not that hard to change...since you have it apart might as well try to pull it out...maybe you can straighten it with a bit of heat and hammering...reinforce with a short piece of metal and call it a day.

There is just a lock washer on the side near the accelerator...knock that off and slide it out toward the driver side...I had a bit of a time with mine because it was a transplant but yours should have enough room to pull it without any major teardown.
 

numberjack

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Thanks for confirming, guys.

Does anybody know where to purchase a replacement pedal without buying the whole assembly?
 

RonD

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Outside of someone here parting out an assembly, wrecking yard would be best bet, although you would need to get whole assembly.

But as bent as that is I would check out the whole thing, could be damage at the top you can't easily see.
 

Mark_88

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Yes. junkyard...and I think they are the same right up to 2001...or maybe 2011...but take the part with you to match if you can.

I had an 88 that I swapped the 96 dash into and used the 96 pedals...the 88 wouldn't work with it from what I recall so 96, 97 for sure...possible later and maybe earlier models....don't know when Ford changed the brake booster mount to hold the clutch and my usual source for info is out of action...
 

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Yes. junkyard...and I think they are the same right up to 2001...or maybe 2011...but take the part with you to match if you can.

I had an 88 that I swapped the 96 dash into and used the 96 pedals...the 88 wouldn't work with it from what I recall so 96, 97 for sure...possible later and maybe earlier models....don't know when Ford changed the brake booster mount to hold the clutch and my usual source for info is out of action...
This big time!

If you've got a pick and pull yard in your area, find a compatible model and have at it. It's a wonderful place to 'learn' about how it goes together and comes apart before you damage your own vehicle. I'm not condoning intentionally wrecking another vehicle..but using it as a learning tool and you'll likely find what you need in decent shape.

S-
 


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