Clutch hydraulic issues i think


alwaysFlOoReD

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@pjtoledo
@scotts90ranger
Thanks for stepping in, I forgot a lot of stuff I should have mentioned.

The master should have a rubber gasket that goes on top before the lid screws back on. If its missing then the brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and rust forms where ever there is steel, like the slave cylinder. Then the seals wear out and things start leaking.
 


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Kiyp

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Master isn't horrible, it's been almost a decade since I've done it (I think 2011 or 2012). The hard part can be getting the quick release at the transmission to release, if it's clean and the sleeve is in place for the quick release just push it inward evenly (I have a tool somewhere, but never know where when I need it) while pushing in on the line a little. Once that's off climb under the dash and try to get the linkage off the pedal, the black bushing clip can be a pain but basically lift the 4 nubs out of the slot and it should slide off, then get the switch off the linkage, there's a white plastic slider that comes off to slide over the link then the switch comes off. Then on the firewall there's 2 or 3 nuts I believe or bolts into the firewall, I don't remember. Pull the whole assembly out the top after you unbolt the reservoir. From there there's a roll pin holding the clutch line to the master, take that out with a pin punch then put the line in the new master (I would drain the old fluid out first, stick it upside down and push something clean into the valve on the quick release end). Now fill it with fluid and press the piston on the new master a bunch of times until it is solid, keep checking the fluid level. Once it is solid it is fully bled, reinstall into the vehicle and put everything back where you found it...
I will have to keep this thread open for the tips you have given me, ill let you guys know how it turned out when i have finished the replacement, sadly next paycheck doesn't come in for another week and a half, at least i was planning to do my breaks with this paycheck so ill already be removing the wheel, removing the wheel well to get at the MC wont be so bad i suppose
 

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@pjtoledo
@scotts90ranger
Thanks for stepping in, I forgot a lot of stuff I should have mentioned.

The master should have a rubber gasket that goes on top before the lid screws back on. If its missing then the brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and rust forms where ever there is steel, like the slave cylinder. Then the seals wear out and things start leaking.
Gotchya so i need to replace that gasket asap as well to prevent further damage and i already would have had to drain everything so this doesn't make much of a difference to that
 

scotts90ranger

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The master cylinder gasket is the big diaphragm on top, did it have that?

No need to get the inner fender out I don't think, but I haven't looked that close at my '97... no non related parts were removed when I did it for my '90 and the '91 Explorer I had...

Some of it is fresh from working on my F350 a few days ago... :). But being a bled unit and external slave it's somewhat different...

If you keep up on the fluid level you can probably hold off for a while, maybe wrap a rag around the linkage sensor, brake fluid is gross and eats paint, don't want your floor to rust away in the florida salty humidity...
 

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The master cylinder gasket is the big diaphragm on top, did it have that?

No need to get the inner fender out I don't think, but I haven't looked that close at my '97... no non related parts were removed when I did it for my '90 and the '91 Explorer I had...

Some of it is fresh from working on my F350 a few days ago... :). But being a bled unit and external slave it's somewhat different...

If you keep up on the fluid level you can probably hold off for a while, maybe wrap a rag around the linkage sensor, brake fluid is gross and eats paint, don't want your floor to rust away in the florida salty humidity...
I think it probably took months for it too leak that low so i dont think i have to worry about what little will leak over the next 2 weeks, sadly it seems the inner fender does have to come off, from what ive read its possible to get at it from above but both from experience reaching to where it is (i dropped a relay in that general area that got so deep i will likely never get it again and i also rather ironically dropped the reservoir cap down there while i was checking the fluid earlier and had to get it out) and from what ive read you will have no way to see what you're doing and you will have to contort around many wires and other things, having just done the spark plugs on my 2.5l engine i do not want to do anything that involves contorting in small spaces to grab and pull at things i cannot see again anytime soon (2 of them are underneath the intake manifold on the 2.5l engine if you didnt know and it took me hours to change them), sorry for the long message im bad at condensing things
 


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