CLUELESS

[Shadowridr1]

An exhaust valve that doesn't open will expel the exhaust out the opening intake valve. If you disconnet the injector and pop goes away... it makes sense because there is no fuel to ignite. But it still ticks...

I see you're a mod....
Can you tell me how to post a video?? Or where I can find info about this on the forum.....I think that would really help out

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yes sir, it does the same on injector 2 as well just take longer to stop popping. I've gathered that with #3 being on the fuel inlet side and the very last injector, then it would react faster to stopping the pop. It would also be the injector to get the most fuel first as the pressure would possibly force fuel past the first 2 injectors. Then when the fuel makes it easy around the rail it balances out causing the popping to stop when #2 is unplugged. But at this point I feel like I'm grasping at straws.

I think you're totally grasping for something...

Does the engine have a miss along with the tick?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Most folks post it to youtube and then post the URL here. That's what I do when I want to post a video.

 

[Shadowridr1]

I think you're totally grasping for something...

Does the engine have a miss along with the tick?

This is my torque screenshot after 15 min of running at idle. Idk why the parts last gave me a 160° t-stat but I didn't notice till I already had it in and I looked at the box...

 

[Shadowridr1]

To right is total misfire

 

[Shadowridr1]

Most folks post it to youtube and then post the URL here. That's what I do when I want to post a video.

Ok I'll give that a try. Does it have to be a certain MB

 

[ericbphoto]

Ok I'll give that a try. Does it have to be a certain MB

No. You put the video on YouTube and then put the link (url) to it in your post here. We don't host videos directly here.

 

[Shadowridr1]

 

[Uncle Gump]

There is only one way to determine a mechanical failure... compression test. I would pull all the plugs and do it right. IF the test results are good... you can at least rule all of it out. But I suspect you will find an issue.

 

[Shadowridr1]

There is only one way to determine a mechanical failure... compression test. I would pull all the plugs and do it right. IF the test results are good... you can at least rule all of it out. But I suspect you will find an issue.

Compression test done. I'm glad they are all good and within percentage. Plug #3 and #6 are black. These plugs were new and are autolite platinum fine wires

 

[RonD]

Engine is for sure running Rich by the look of those spark plug tips, or oil vapor is getting in

3 and 6 especially, but all are blackish

Whats the status of the PCV Valve and its hose, any signs of high oil vapor/residue inside the hose

 

[Shadowridr1]

Engine is for sure running Rich by the look of those spark plug tips, or oil vapor is getting in

3 and 6 especially, but all are blackish

Whats the status of the PCV Valve and its hose, any signs of high oil vapor/residue inside the hose

No sir, well not as of yet. The old one was really oily. I just put a new oem on yesterday, prior to it coming in I used the old one trying to figure this out and it was clean when I removed it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would have bet money those numbers would have been off...

To right is total misfire

What exactly are you saying?

 

[Shadowridr1]

I would have bet money those numbers would have been off...



What exactly are you saying?

I'm glad they are not off.... that was a relief.
The total # of misfires is the top right corner reading.... where it says MFTOT.....

 

[Uncle Gump]

The only other thing mechanical that could cause it would be if and exhaust valve isn't opening. It certainly has a misfire according to your counts.

I just can't get past the tapping... sure sounds like something in the valvetrain.