CLUELESS

[Shadowridr1]

This thing has been driving me crazy. 03 b3000 3.0, just replaced both cylinder heads due to low compression on #5, hesitation under normal acceleration and misfires. Along with the heads I also installed new plugs, wires, coil pack, IAC, O2 sensors, oil switch, CPS, CPS synchronizer and PCV hose assembly. Recently cleaned TB, MAF and injectors best I could. Pretty much top half rebuild. Put it all back together and this is what I got. I think it's a lifter tick cause I didn't replace those, but then a few days later I stumbled onto this. If I unplug the #3 injector the popping stops, still got the tick ??? Help me out... about to place an order for injectors, lifters and pushrods.. if I could figure out how to upload a video, this would probably make helping me 100 times easier

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would pull that valve cover and make sure you didn't pop a push rod out or something to that effect.

 

[tw205]

When you post, just below dialogue box tab says attach files. Select it and it will allow you to attach the video.

 

[RonD]

Recheck firing order on Coil Pack
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the matched pairs, each pair shares one coil in the pack
Can be sideways as well
3 2 1
4 6 5
or
1 2 3
5 6 4
but always same pairs are together

Recheck spark plug wires on spark plug end, if a wire is not fully seated to spark plug it makes a "tick" sound as the spark arcs between wire and plug

 

[Shadowridr1]

When you post, just below dialogue box tab says attach files. Select it and it will allow you to attach the video.

No sir is says I don't have the correct expansion attached... idk

 

[Shadowridr1]

Recheck firing order on Coil Pack
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the matched pairs, each pair shares one coil in the pack
Can be sideways as well
3 2 1
4 6 5
or
1 2 3
5 6 4
but always same pairs are together

Recheck spark plug wires on spark plug end, if a wire is not fully seated to spark plug it makes a "tick" sound as the spark arcs between wire and plug

All good Ron. I've checked them like 10x. Unplugged sensors, sprayed carb clean on all vac openings ect ect I just did a clear flood mode and the damn thing started x2. 3rd time it would not start in clear flood mode. Then I started it and it ran ok for like 3 seconds then started the popping crap again

 

[tw205]

My bad. I believe it wants it converted to a different format. I’ve only posted pics. I saw it said take video. I just assumed it worked. Can one of you moderators point us in the right direction? Can we not just use our phone video? Inquiring minds.

 

[RonD]

Popping noise is unburned fuel being ignited in exhaust manifold when next cylinder on that bank opens its exhaust valve after firing

To get unburned fuel into the exhaust manifold there needs to be a misfire, so you should feel that cylinder misfiring

Clear flooded engine test is good to do but needs WOT(wide open throttle) from TPS for valid test
Key/Engine off
Put a stick on gas pedal and against seat to hold pedal down all the way
Go to engine and see if you can open throttle a bit more
If so then do Ranger Throttle Cable Mod, easy to do

Yes, you could have a leaking injector
If Clear Flooded engine test allows start up

 

[Shadowridr1]

My bad. I believe it wants it converted to a different format. I’ve only posted pics. I saw it said take video. I just assumed it worked. Can one of you moderators point us in the right direction? Can we not just use our phone video? Inquiring minds.

Yeah, it would be nice. Also file size. Neither of this info is anywhere on the forum that I can find. I got pics to upload just through the phone but not videos

 

[Shadowridr1]

Popping noise is unburned fuel being ignited in exhaust manifold when next cylinder on that bank opens its exhaust valve after firing

To get unburned fuel into the exhaust manifold there needs to be a misfire, so you should feel that cylinder misfiring

Clear flooded engine test is good to do but needs WOT(wide open throttle) from TPS for valid test
Key/Engine off
Put a stick on gas pedal and against seat to hold pedal down all the way
Go to engine and see if you can open throttle a bit more
If so then do Ranger Throttle Cable Mod, easy to do

Yes, you could have a leaking injector
If Clear Flooded engine test allows start up

Yes sir it open all the way. I have the hood off and could see the attachment thing on the end of the cable when flooring it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would still pull a valve cover...

 

[Shadowridr1]

I would still pull a valve cover...

I've had it off twice, well the driver side not the passenger side. I haven't pulled it

 

[Uncle Gump]

An exhaust valve that doesn't open will expel the exhaust out the opening intake valve. If you disconnet the injector and pop goes away... it makes sense because there is no fuel to ignite. But it still ticks...

 

[Shadowridr1]

The only thing I noticed that I didn't like was the rockers would move a little front to back on the bridges, but not up and down against the spring or rod. The bolts are torqued to 22ftlbs

 

[Shadowridr1]

An exhaust valve that doesn't open will expel the exhaust out the opening intake valve. If you disconnet the injector and pop goes away... it makes sense because there is no fuel to ignite. But it still ticks...

Yes sir, it does the same on injector 2 as well just take longer to stop popping. I've gathered that with #3 being on the fuel inlet side and the very last injector, then it would react faster to stopping the pop. It would also be the injector to get the most fuel first as the pressure would possibly force fuel past the first 2 injectors. Then when the fuel makes it easy around the rail it balances out causing the popping to stop when #2 is unplugged. But at this point I feel like I'm grasping at straws.