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Check engine light went on, then off, overheated a could times past 1.5krpm's,

juntjoo

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... then stopped overheating, according to the gauge at least. Can the gauge be faulty? Or could it be the thermometer? What would make the check engine light go on if related to this? It didn't seem hot, the oil is good, and I just recently topped off the coolant with prediluted 50/50 solution, yellow, if that makes a difference
 


Denisefwd93

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online help can't help you without information.

CEL comes on because something set a code or went wrong, Seems you don't knowthat. So you probably should find somebody that does have a scanner or at least knows how to read the codes, (many of the chain stores and even some garages will do a code read for free)

you don't want to lose a good engine because you "think" it's not overheating. It's kind of like driving on a flat tire thinking you won't ruin the wheel. good luck
 

juntjoo

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online help can't help you without information.

CEL comes on because something set a code or went wrong, Seems you don't knowthat. So you probably should find somebody that does have a scanner or at least knows how to read the codes, (many of the chain stores and even some garages will do a code read for free)



you don't want to lose a good engine because you "think" it's not overheating. It's kind of like driving on a flat tire thinking you won't ruin the wheel. good luck
Thanks. Yeah, I'll have that checked out asap. Was just wondering if my symptoms were common for something. Can the code be read if the light isn't on, since mine is intermittent?
 

RonD

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Codes stay in memory so can be read after the fact

I would plan on changing your thermostat, 195degF, and temp SENDER.....not sensor, they are different.
On 3.0l the Sender is at top front of engine on a hex shaped pipe coming out of lower intake
Sensor is next to thermostat housing(upper rad hose connection)

Drain coolant into a pan to use it again, then pour it back in thru a filter of some kind, if it has bits and pieces in it.

No, there is no "common" reason for your symptoms that I can think of
 
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juntjoo

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Codes stay in memory so can be read after the fact

I would plan on changing your thermostat, 195degF, and temp SENDER.....not sensor, they are different.
On 3.0l the Sender is at top front of engine on a hex shaped pipe coming out of lower intake
Sensor is next to thermostat housing(upper rad hose connection)

Drain coolant into a pan to use it again, then pour it back in thru a filter of some kind, if it has bits and pieces in it.

No, there is no "common" reason for your symptoms that I can think of
Thank you
 

juntjoo

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Error code P0174 adaptive fuel trim too lean (bank 2)

"Indicates the back 2 system is too lean for a predetermined period of time"

Seems like the overheating thing is a false alarm as it happens shortly after starting the truck after a couple miles and getting onto the freeway after running the engine beyond 1.5krpms where it rapidly reaches the top of the gauge, then after a while, after I keep the engine speed low it goes back to normal then doesn't reoccur. Unless somehow it is in fact overheating for that brief period but I wouldn't know why/ how that would happen. The code definition above is Chinese to me. Anyone anyone speak Chinese?
 

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No that is not a false alarm there is something wrong with your cooling system,

You can look up codes there's nothing Chinese about them.

Fixing things is when it gets expensive.

I'm thinking check the fuel pressure, clean maf, air filter, etc.
 

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No that is not a false alarm there is something wrong with your cooling system,

You can look up codes there's nothing Chinese about them.

Fixing things is when it gets expensive.

I'm thinking check the fuel pressure, clean maf, air filter, etc.
Thanks.

"back 2 system is too lean for a predetermined period of time"

What is back 2? So fuel pressure is low causing a lean mix and how would that cause the engine to overheat? I'm just trying to understand as much as possible before I go talking to mechanics. I don't trust many.
 

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Bank 2
V6 engine has 3 cylinders on each "bank"
Bank 1 is passenger side
Bank 2 is drivers side

Only getting Bank 2 Lean code is more likely to be lower intake manifold vacuum leak, bad spark plug or injector on that bank, or O2 sensor on that bank

Low fuel pressure would cause code on Bank 1 and bank 2, same for upper intake vacuum leak or faulty MAF
These effect both banks

Bank 2 is not "running" Lean, thats not what the code means, Lean, or Rich, code means computers fuel calculations are off.
The computer calculates the amount of fuel needed on each Bank by the air flowing into the engine, it then opens the injectors to add that amount of fuel, after the fuel is burned the O2 sensor reads the Oxygen levels in the exhaust on that bank, if oxygen level is low the exhaust is Rich, if oxygen level is high the exhaust is Lean.
If Lean computer opens injectors longer on that bank, until O2 reports normal oxygen levels
If computer needs to add 15-20% more fuel than calculated it will set a Lean code for that bank, if 15-20% less fuel then Rich code.
This all happens in less that 2 seconds so engine is never actually running Lean or Rich.


Your thermostat may be going bad, it is not opening as it should so engine is overheating until it finally opens.
Replace it, they are not expensive
 
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juntjoo

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Bank 2
V6 engine has 3 cylinders on each "bank"
Bank 1 is passenger side
Bank 2 is drivers side

Only getting Bank 2 Lean code is more likely to be lower intake manifold vacuum leak, bad spark plug or injector on that bank, or O2 sensor on that bank

Low fuel pressure would cause code on Bank 1 and bank 2, same for upper intake vacuum leak or faulty MAF
These effect both banks

Bank 2 is not "running" Lean, thats not what the code means, Lean, or Rich, code means computers fuel calculations are off.
The computer calculates the amount of fuel needed on each Bank by the air flowing into the engine, it then opens the injectors to add that amount of fuel, after the fuel is burned the O2 sensor reads the Oxygen levels in the exhaust on that bank, if oxygen level is low the exhaust is Rich, if oxygen level is high the exhaust is Lean.
If Lean computer opens injectors longer on that bank, until O2 reports normal oxygen levels
If computer needs to add 15-20% more fuel than calculated it will set a Lean code for that bank, if 15-20% less fuel then Rich code.
This all happens in less that 2 seconds so engine is never actually running Lean or Rich.


Your thermostat may be going bad, it is not opening as it should so engine is overheating until it finally opens.
Replace it, they are not expensive
Thanks a lot! That was very in depth and all made sense. This is my first V engine. Okay, illlook into the cost, time to fix,see if its worth trying out, in case its not the culprit.
 

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Radiator leak https://imgur.com/a/JgLNrt5

So I noticed that even tho I'd recently flushed the coolant the level was low in the reservoir so I filled it up, ran the engine to bleed it and noticed it leaking onto the ground, but only while engine running, hence I'd not noticed any leaks at home. Looked above and saw what you see in pic. Appears to be leaking from the top area. Is this fixable or do I just need to swap in a new radiator? And this is most likely the culprit for my original issue no?

Or I wonder if some gasket shellack will work...
 
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Denisefwd93

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OMG! No you can't fix plastic radiator just get a new one they are NOT expensive.
I'm going to suggest something that may hurt your feelings or maybe not. Consider taking Automotive Maintenance course. Or plan on taking your vehicle in at least monthly to get things checked out, the older it gets the more things go wrong. And as you found out they don't fix themselves
Good luck
 

juntjoo

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OMG! No you can't fix plastic radiator just get a new one they are NOT expensive.
I'm going to suggest something that may hurt your feelings or maybe not. Consider taking Automotive Maintenance course. Or plan on taking your vehicle in at least monthly to get things checked out, the older it gets the more things go wrong. And as you found out they don't fix themselves
Good luck

No feelings hurt but I'm guessing you're not the avid poor diy'er I am and I just did a youtube search and got a lot of results matching my idea except most are using epoxy, and or plastic weld which I have. And why not if you keep a part alive another year or so? Ive done MacGyver fixes like this with success, and many with failure but worth the experimentation/education I'd say. Trick is knowing your materials and tools. But thx anyway, we all have different approaches to these things and bank accounts

Check it out:

https://youtu.be/gidENnM4VKs
 

Denisefwd93

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Almost all epoxy gets soft around 180 degrees, J-B Weld claims otherwise I've never used it, never would,

https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-extremeheat
If you're going to plastic weld, I hope you use matching plastic welding rods because filling in the crack with just melted substrate is going to make it rather thin, but that's what you want to do although, it will probably take you longer than changing the radiator out.

It takes about 20 minutes to take the radiator out, we did it Friday night and I put it back alone, Saturday morning.

I'm retired owner of a HVAC business I know mostly old school automotive. My son (rip) and I used to restore other cars, after 30 years of those, I sold the last one about a year ago. I'm on my second Ford Ranger. And I do a lot byself. We just swapped out a transmission about 2 months ago I needed help with that!
 
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RonD

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One suggestion, get a radiator cap with 12 or 14psi rating instead of the 16psi

Assuming you are using coolant, boiling point doesn't drop that much and your repair may last longer with lower pressure in the system

Engines generally run between 190-215degF, but can go up to 225F when under load, i.e. climbing a longer uphill grade or pulling a trailer

Boiling point of 50/50 coolant/water without pressure, no rad cap, is 226F
With 8psi pressure it is 248F
With 12psi pressure it is 259F
With 16psi pressure it is 267F
 

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