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check engine light not working after cluster swap.


haizrail

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I'm going to college to become a computer tech, and I even though I'm not holding a job doing it, I stay busy dealing with friends and relatives with their computer and other tech needs. I know your pain all to well when it come to incompetent technicians, most of the one's I've come across, that come here to the house because of the internet or phone, I've had to tell them how to do their jobs, which can be frustrating to say the least.
 


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Mark_88

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I'm going to college to become a computer tech, and I even though I'm not holding a job doing it, I stay busy dealing with friends and relatives with their computer and other tech needs. I know your pain all to well when it come to incompetent technicians, most of the one's I've come across, that come here to the house because of the internet or phone, I've had to tell them how to do their jobs, which can be frustrating to say the least.
Cool! I was a computer programmer/IT/tech support and saw the same thing. The guy today found the problem after I told him what happened and was out of here in 20 minutes. The first three guys took almost three weeks just to get it up and running so I was impressed...but he had good equipment and knew what he was doing...makes all the difference in the world.

Computers are fun and I hope you are enjoying your studies. They are not complicated on the technician level for the most part but if you get into system or network designs they can be much more challenging...that's where I wanted to go but ran out of funding so had to settle for the "tech" level education.

If you do a job market search you might find there is not as many jobs out there as these schools claim so it is advised to get as many certifications as you can in the courses...something I wish I would have paid more attention too and was totally sideswiped by the school I attended.

Ah, well, I did find work and I did enjoy it a great deal...but I should have been a mechanic or technician in the automotive industry...much more lucrative but still a squeeze for jobs and getting certs...
 

haizrail

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I'm enjoying it overall, there are a few classes that I feel like pulling my hair out and it's not the work but how some instructors assign work or a lack there of, screwed up dead lines and etc.. Like the week before Easter for my online class the instructor opened the week assignment up on Sunday and I went to do it this past Friday and she had already closed it so I couldn't do it, she gave me five days not a week like she was suppose to do. I sent her a email and she didn't reply back until this morning, and she said the reason she closed it early was because the collage was closed for Easter. and to make matters worse shes not posting any assignments this week at all, I guess it's because of where the school was closed for Easter this past Monday. other than this crap I'm enjoying it, I started in fall of 2012 and I've got 7 classes left to take before I get my associates degree. I can't handle more than two classes because I fall behind with the work. after I get finished with this degree I'm seriously thinking about going for my bachelors. if not that going back for auto mechanics. because even though i'm handicapped I can still do most of anything anyone else can do it just takes me longer.
 

haizrail

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Well it seems I can't win for losing, https://autoplicity.com/ doesn't have what I ordered in stock. and I can't find it anywhere else that's a reliable source. so how to do this I've looked up the links you guy's have sent and no where does it say how he pulled the pin all it say's is he pulled it.

I really need someones help now. thanks.
 

tomw

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Take a small piece of milk jug plastic. Trim it down to a narrow tip that will fit into the connector. Maneuver it around, and it may be enough to depress the tab that sticks up retaining the clip in the connector.
I think you have to come in from the non-wire side of the connector as most retainer tabs depress as they go by an edge internal to the connector. You'd have to come at them from the other end to slide up the tab and make it depress to release.
Slide the jug plastic in and if you hit the correct spot, it will have a bit of resistance. Do not pull on the wire as you slide the plastic in, let the metal of the connector 'float' freely so the plastic can slide past. You may try to pull the wire out, gently, sort of pulling-releasing, and when you hit the sweet spot, it will come out.
If you have good eyes, and a metal 'pick' you may be able to see the release tab from the 'butt' end of the connector looking in, and depress the tab using the pick.
tom
 

Mark_88

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Not having done that particular task I'm not sure what is involved. I have, however, released closed zip ties by unlocking them using one of my "jewelers" screw drivers...they have a flat ended one that is so tiny but effective for depressing the tabs that hold them in.

When I watched the video on this I did see the guy doing something similar so I figured any tiny slot-head screw driver would work...but I thought I saw one guy using the star-head...

In most cases a specialty tool isn't the only one that works and they are typically overpriced when sold as such...you can get the jeweler sets at most any hardware store or even Wal-Mart...for a few dollars tops.
 

haizrail

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I'm going to try toms idea first, and this video your talking about? I haven't came across.
 

Mark_88

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The video I posted last week...but that is not the same exact type of connector. There are other videos and if tom's method works then you've accomplished what you need.
 

tomw

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I have a sharp-ended pick I use for zip-tie release, one end is straight, the other a 90-degree bend. With a little practice, they can be released quickly by guiding the sharp end under the tab that retains the zip once positioned.
Same process for the electrical connectors snapped into a plastic 'carrier'. The connectors slide in, and a protruding tab goes past an edge and is allowed to expand, so it cannot readily be pulled back out once inserted. Base logic indicated the tab must be depressed from the connector end of the assembly to allow it to depress and release.
tom
 

haizrail

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thanks for the reply's I haven't had the time to brake the dash down and try it yet, next week I've got to start loading stuff on the truck and take it to the dump, free dump. I may be able to get to it Wednesday of next week if everything goes as planned.
 

haizrail

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Hello, everybody I wanted to let all of you guy's and gals know that I was able to find the tool I needed for this job, I found a seller on ebay selling it, it was a little high but the money was well spent.

I broke-down the dash about 30 minutes ago and I used the tool to extract the pin, after this I put the extracted pin into pin 9 on C2 as mention in the earlier posts and connected the cluster up and re connected the battery, turned over the switch to the on/start position and the the Check engine Light lite up like a Christmas tree in the middle of July.
 
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Mark_88

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Good job...congratulations!

Thanks for the update...:icon_thumby:
 

haizrail

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Cluster panel air bag

hello, I know it's been a while and the cluster has worked out great. but my check engine light has been on and it's time for inspection. so I decided to get the codes read to see if their was any new ones. and well I got a new code witch was for the air bag. it was 18 something. however, it reads that the reason the code is triggering is due to the fact that the air bag light isn't coming on. and the only thing I can think is that the pin will need to be moved to the correct position. and Idea's on the correct pin layout for the air bag.
 


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