Charging system problems

[The_Epsicle]

Update: The mechanic has traced the problem to one of two things.

1: the ignition switch

2: bad wiring(it was a voicemail and he didn't go into specifics)

I kind of figured on the bad wiring that's where I was heading in the direction of too, I do know that the previous owner replaced the ignition switch at some point(and judging on some of their other jobs on this truck, did a poor job of it) and that my key is not a perfect fit for it(I received a worn and cracked key and copied it). What do you all think?

 

[The_Epsicle]

Okay he checked the ignition switch and it is fine, he also tested the alternator and it is fine, he tested the wiring and it's fine. The only bit of wiring he didn't test was on the instrument cluster going to or from the charge indicator light which I will do when I take the truck back later today, from everything we have seen the truck should be charging. Besides replacing all of the wiring in the charging system I am at a complete loss, I am getting very close to parting this damn truck out and buying an S10, so you know I'm desperate. Any help is appreciated, there are no stupid suggestions at this point...

 

[Spott]

I am getting very close to parting this damn truck out and buying an S10...

That just might be a stupid suggestion.

I know in the 1st gens that there was a resistor in the dash that was part of the charging/regulation circuitry, and thus the alternator wouldn't charge the battery if the instruments were unplugged.

Maybe those dash wires are more important than they appear.

 

[Big Jim M]

Start her up and put a voltmeter on the battery while running. If 14 volts then I MIGHT forget about it! If less that 13 then I would pull the dash. If 14 volts then I would pull the headlights on while running and check to see if it was still over 13. If yes then it is a go for sure.
Big Jim

 

[The_Epsicle]

I'm getting 12.6 volts while running the car, I am running off of pure battery and from everything I've seen I should be charging but I'm not. I've already removed the instrument cluster and will let you know what I find when I do some more testing with the volt meter.

UPDATE: The alternator is good, the ignition switch is good, the battery is good, no fuses are blown, the fusible link is good, the car starts and runs fine for several miles, the light is still on I sent it to a mechanic to have someone double check my work and everything came back the same. I am making 12.6 volts with the car on, I am currently focusing on the instrument cluster and so far have not found any issues with it. I will be checking all the pigtails and wiring again when I get the chance, when I test the wiring again I will break the harness apart and visually inspect every wire contained inside and if I find any issue I will replace the entire wire.

 

[The_Epsicle]

RESOLVED: This is an instance that shows I shouldn't doubt my instincts, the green/red striped wire was grounded out between the alternator and the instrument cluster, I ran a jumper wire between the two connectors and the light went off, checked the voltage and I was getting 14.2 . Special thank you to RonD for all the help he gave, he knows his stuff.

 

[The_Epsicle]

Okay, one last stupid question. I'm about to replace the wire and I'm wondering if I can go through the connector on the drivers side firewall just so that it's in the same location, or should I just drill through the firewall and call it good? NAPA is closed now so I can't pick up any grommets/sealant for the firewall so I figured I'd ask before I grab the power drill.

 

[Lone-Ranger]

Ideally you would take it apart and run it through the connector, however there will be no diference if you run it separately. All depends on whether you mind knowing you drilled an extra hole in the firewall I suppose. No factory grommets anywhere to sneak a wire through?

 

[Mark_88]

Geez, a 94 has enough holes in the firewall already so I'd run it through an existing one if you can...even just around the accelerator cable pass through there are two that can be used...that's if I recall correctly.

Only problem with drilling is no matter how many times you check to make sure it's clear there's always something there that could get damaged...like wire harnesses...

 

[The_Epsicle]

I haven't really done a whole lot of looking to see where I could run it through the firewall. Do you know how to take apart that connector/pass through point? I don't really see a way of doing it. Also is it a connector or do the wires just go through there? Because if it's a connector then I'll bypass it anyway since that could be where I went wrong with this.

EDIT: I found out it's a connector and how to disassemble it while researching another project I'm working on, it seems that there is a bolt that I didn't see at first.

 

[Big Jim M]

Yeah ya gotta be careful where you drill! My little brother drilled a self tapping screw into the floor of his new DODGE diesel truck last week. While screwing the screw into the floor his drivers door air bag went off! Scared the crap out of him! After review he found a wire loom under the floor that the screw had went into! Dodge told him it was a month wait for a new loom. So we pulled it and repaired with solder the damaged wires. Now he is looking for another air bag.
Big JIm

 

[The_Epsicle]

I decided not to drill, I routed the wire through the speedometer cable grommet. I pulled it through some insulation and around some wires to keep it out of the pedal. All is good just have to button up the interior now.

EDIT: I took it for a brief ride around town today and noticed that the engine sounds a lot stronger than it did before, my erratic idle seems to be mostly gone and many of the rough stumbles I've had on take off have disappeared as well. I think that wire was putting a drain on the system for awhile and only recently triggered the charge light.