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CEL, won't start hot, shuts off


The_Epsicle

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1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 extended cab, auto 4x4, auto tranny, dana 35 front, ranger 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, A/C.

I just finished replacing my entire Power steering system, my old high pressure hose did not have a pressure sensor so my new one does not either. Recent work includes replacing rocker arms, pushrods, green/red striped wire between the alternator and the instrument cluster, the PO replaced the radiator the day I bought the truck.

When I turned on my truck after replacing the PS system my CEL turned on, this wasn't a big deal until I couldn't start the car after I shut it off. I did the KOER and the KOEO tests and here are the flashes I received in the exact order I received them.

KOEO: 118 118 118 157 118 157

KOER: 998 118 998 118 (after the last 11 the first time the CEL flashed 5 times but did not complete because the engine shut itself off, I did this test twice and the second time I got 118 as the last code)

Note: neither test gave me the engine ID or asked me to goose the engine.

I've checked my Haynes and as far as I can tell from these are what those codes mean:

998: Hard fault present

118: Coolant temperature sensor above maximum voltage/indicates below -40 degrees F (Note: the temp gauge still measures temperature like it did before)

157: Mass Air Flow sensor below minimum voltage.

I'm going to take it to a shop to have the codes read right after the weekend. Right now, I've got no clue what's wrong and I need help.

For a refresher here are the symptoms:

1. My engine will not start hot, it just rotates, seems I have no spark when hot since I can hear the fuel pump, sometimes holding the throttle open will allow it to start but only after it has cooled off a little.

2. My engine shuts itself off, I'm unclear if this is because it is hot or for some other reason.

3. My engine runs a little rough, there's just a slight shake to it.

4? Preexisting and probably unrelated condition, but my lifters make some noise until warm.

RESOLVED: Replaced my smashed ECT sensor and that took care of it.
 
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Spott

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I'm pretty sure there's a different temperature sensor for the ECC, than the one that runs the dash gauge. I'm sure that's the one the computer's complaining about.

The general principle is that you should fix the first code, then retest.

Maybe you snagged some wires while you were working on your PS.

Also, I've heard some stories that the TFI ignition modules like to develop heat-related failures, so that might be why it won't start when hot.
 

The_Epsicle

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I'm pretty sure there's a different temperature sensor for the ECC, than the one that runs the dash gauge. I'm sure that's the one the computer's complaining about.

The general principle is that you should fix the first code, then retest.

Maybe you snagged some wires while you were working on your PS.

Also, I've heard some stories that the TFI ignition modules like to develop heat-related failures, so that might be why it won't start when hot.
Thanks, I forgot about that I'll check it in the morning.
 

The_Epsicle

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All hail the mighty ziptie!
I went out to check it since I forgot to put something back in the truck and it seems when I was pulling the PS bracket out of the car(to make pulley removal easier) I snapped the ECT sensor clean in half and didn't even notice! :icon_rofl: I'll post a picture when there's light, that's an easy thing to miss though. :icon_twisted:
 


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