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Carb to efi advise please

RangerDange

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So some of you may have read my last 2.0 carbed build thread. Well since then I have blown a piston ring. I found a great deal on a 2.3 from a 90s mustang with 93000 original miles. At this point I would really like to keep the efi as I will be getting engine, harness, and ecu. Would this be a fairly easy swap? Should I grab anything else from the mustang?

I figure everything should bolt right in but my biggest concern would be fuel delivery. I dont know if i should mount an external pump off my existing fuel line powered from the fuel pump relay and make my own return line, or swap in an efi tank, fuel pump, and lines.

Has anyone done this swap before? Please feel free to give me any pointers on any aspect of the swap that I may be over looking. Also would my 2.0 intake manifold bolt up? if it would be much eaiser to keep it carbureted I'm OK with that as long as I don't have to swap my old head on.
 


RonD

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1997 and earlier Rangers with EFI use two fuel lines, there was a Return fuel line so a Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) could be used on the fuel rail.

So you will be dropping the fuel tank(or lifting the bed) to plumb that in, and might as well go with in-tank high pressure pump at that time.


Yes, high pressure pump can run off existing fuel pump relay and fuse(fusible link)

Yes your 2.0l intake will fit on 2.3l head
 
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RangerDange

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Thanks for the reply ron. So for sake of time I might swap over my carb stuff until I'm able to grab a fuel tank and pump. Doesn't matter that it's a a duel plug head? Can I simply just plug the extra spark plug holes with a few spare plugs?

I'll post pictures of all the new goodies when I go pull it on Saturday. I think the mustang used an electric cooling fan. If I keep it carbed for now is there anyway to utilize the electric fan with my current wiring or should I just wire it threw a toggle switch?
 

RonD

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Yes, just leave spark plugs in, and use one side.

But...............does the '90's Mustang 2.3l have a distributor?
Or at least a distributor hole and gear?

The dual plug heads were made for Ford distributorless Waste spark system, using a Crank sensor and ICM(ignition control module) that fires the dual coil packs.

Yes, the e-fan can be used with a temp sensor and relay, there are kits that come with a probe that slides in between the radiator fins, the ON/OFF temps are adjustable.
Or you can use a temp sender on the upper rad hose using an insert, like this: http://www.autometer.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1500x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/2/2/2283_7.jpg
These type of inserts need the bung(sensor) either on the side or pointed down so the sensor is always covered with coolant.

And then just a 50amp relay that closes when temp sender gets hot enough.

some of the kits are seen here: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/electric-fan-temperature-switch

If you do use a toggle switch you still need the relay, you do NOT want to run a wire with that many possible amps into and out of the cab.
 
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RangerDange

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I'm under the impression, based on what I have seen, that it does have a plug that just needs to be removed for distributor to be installed. I hope this is the case. Will find out soon.
 

Mark_88

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Up to 94 the blocks had the workings for the distributor. If there is a plug where you put the distributor then there should be the gears there to spin it...doesn't take much to remove the plug and peek down the hole...the gears will be visible about 3" or 4"
down the hole.

I've never used any blocks later than 87 so I've never investigated...but the consensus is that until they changed the block design and put the bigger oil pump in that location they all supported the distributor...
 

RangerDange

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Cool thanks Mark. What do you think about leaving all the sensors and wiring connected for the dis ignition and changing the fuel supply to carb?
 

Mark_88

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As long as none of it is in the way it shouldn't be a problem. I'm trying to remember where everything goes on both versions to see if there might be a problem...if your alternator is on the driver side it won't interfere with anything...on the passenger side should be OK too since there is nothing there...but the wiring for the alternator would need to be extended if you are using the old harness that had it on the driver side...

I only had one issue going from carb to FI and that was the starter cirucuit...but I'm pretty sure the 90-91 had that on the passenger side also...like the earlier versions.

Pics of both side by side would be the best way usually...but I don't see a problem without further information...and i don't even have my Ranger anymore so I can't go have a look...:)

The later blocks don't have a hole for the manual fuel pump (some had blockoffs) but if you are using electronic fuel pump that will work. I still actually have my low pressure fuel pump from my carb setup and I think a new manual pump.

The block I used was an 87 Ranger FI block that did not have the block off...I thought about cutting it out and mounting a manual pump as a backup at one time...but thought better of it because that would be best done with the motor out so you can clean out the metal filings et al. But if the electronic pump goes it would have been nice to just swap over the fuel lines and carry on.
 
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RangerDange

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I believe the mustang is a 93. If it doesn't have a block off for a mechanical pump I'll just get an electric. I'd just like to install as much as possible now with minimizing down time until I can finish up with the efi. Then again do you think the mustang stock ignition system would out perform my msd?
 

Mark_88

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I've always used stock parts and my ignition only failed me once...but that actually turned out to be a broken timing belt so it never really failed...

MSD - I've only heard good things about in the past...

As for prepping as much as possible...it is your call...but to convert to FI I would imagine you are going to need to pull the intake...so anything that might impede that might just be worth saving until you are ready to go with the upgrade.

I don't like clutter...but that's just me.
 

RangerDange

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Yea I'm not a fan of clutter either but I'm in a strange position of trying to minimize down time while also trying to minimize work later. Thanks for all the helpful info I'll post more when I get the parts and make final decisions on the route I'll go with it.
 

tomw

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FWIW, it would be a lot easier and quicker to use an EFI from a same-vintage Ranger. Or pull the wiring, computer, relays, etc from an EFI Ranger, and adapt them to the Mustang engine.
There are 2.3 engines all over the place at pretty low prices. Thing is finding a donor truck that has not been molested. The tank, pump(s), fuel lines, wiring, gauge connection, all could be swapped by just lifting the bed, unscrewing the retainer, and popping it in place. Run the fuel lines down the frame, and you are pretty much done with fuel supply.
If you have a donor, the under hood harness will be a 'plug and play' almost, IF you get the computer and harness from the kick panel of the donor.
The intake would be the same, without need to R&R, or swap in the 2.0 intake.
Just seems a lot easier and quicker to search for a donor that is closer in vintage and bloodline. Personally, that is what I would do. But it is your choice.
tom
 

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